[Wanderman]

Hello Everyone!
    Next Friday (11/17/2023) I am going to be taking a trip from my home base in New York to Santa Fe, NM. Outbound is mainly Rt. 44/80W. I haven't completely planned out the return trip, but was looking to maybe go on a more Southerly route. Perhaps through Dallas, Arkansas, Tennessee, etc and up inland of the East coast. I am a bit flexible.

As many of you know, I am not retired (yet!) and so do not have unlimited time, but this trip I have a few extra days.

Why am I telling you all this in the Air leak section of the Forum?

Recently, I visited the factory for a bunch of repairs. One of the most important ones was fixing the many air leaks I had. Run time for my 120V compressor was about 50 minutes. After the factory visit, my run time is now every 17 minutes.

The leak is affecting the Primary and secondary brake tanks as well as the supply (at the same rate at this point) and is much worse when it's cold out.

I am wondering if anyone knows of any really knowledgeable service companies or folks along my return route that would be in a position to help me get it squared away? And perhaps teach me a bit more about the system in general?

Many, MANY thanks,

[Guy]

As you know, air loss  on any coach with air suspension, along with air doors, toilets etc is a real challenge. We have a very simple 1984 Newell, and it is difficult to keep a tight rein on air issues  Any diesel shop can find your air brake loss issues promptly, but add the complexity of both systems, time for to parts to arrive that may be diagnosed as bad, and installing  them  can make a quick stop at the shop nearly impossible. Nothing worse than waiting for parts, and needed to get back on the road. Perhaps there are GURUS in your New York area that could lend you a hand after your trip ? Springtime   Good luck.

[Fulltiming]

The air in both brake systems dropping at the same rate as the primary air supply is likely telling you the check valves for the two brake systems are non-functional. They are easy enough to change out with a lift or a pit. Otherwise access is tricky. Replacing the two check values should isolate the air brake systems and only the primary air supply will drop out. The other thing to check is to make sure the drain valves on the air brake tanks are tight. If the moisture was drained out of the air brake systems and the valves were not tightened (or seated if you have the pull chain release valves on the brake air tanks) then that would cause a rapid air loss but it is unusual they would be dropping at the same rate.

[Wanderman]

Michael,
On my 1996, Where would the check valves likely be located?

[Fulltiming]

The check valves are threaded into the inlet port of the front and rear brake tanks. My brake tanks are located behind and above the front axle. The air supply line then connects to the other end of the check valve. Their purpose is to prevent a leak in the non-brake air system from depleting the air in the brake tanks.

[Wanderman]

Thanks Michael. I will check that tomorrow, weather permitting. Would there be any external indication of a failed check valve?

Also, any idea what the part number/manufacturer is as I'd like to have a spare set or may need to replace.

Thank you!

[Jonestead]

On my maiden marathon home, I left Tom & Darlene's taking 10 to Houston where I met with Rudy, then went to mothership in Miami, which seems to be a first step for service if I read your description correctly. From there there are several options to bring you back east. If you come anywhere near Williamsburg or Gettysburg, give me a shout.
Enjoy the ride

[Jack Houpe]

Rick I just changed out leaking valves on Ken and Pam's coach, they were the type of valve that you tie a cable on and pull to get the water out of the tank but I replaced them with 90 degree fittings and 1/4 dot line to the compartment where the generator blower is located and then finished with 1/4 inch ball valves to purge the tanks. I am going to do the same to our coach soon, I think there is a thread about this that Richard started.

[Gnawrocki1]

Rick I just changed out leaking valves on Ken and Pam's coach, they were the type of valve that you tie a cable on and pull to get the water out of the tank but I replaced them with 90 degree fittings and 1/4 dot line to the compartment where the generator blower is located and then finished with 1/4 inch ball valves to purge the tanks. I am going to do the same to our coach soon, I think there is a thread about this that Richard started.

On our coach I removed all of the draincocks and also added 90 degree fittings with air hoses routed to easy locations to drain.  I have 4 in the front that I mounted behind the right tail light to the studs that hold the a/c condenser on with a bracket.  I also have 5 in the rear that I routed to the roof of the compartment with the engine bay batteries.  Then don't forget about the ping tank that I added a direct ball valve.  

Makes it a lot easier and more frequent drainage than having them under the middle of the coach.  Some tanks never drain water so this might be overkill.

I can add pictures.....I just have to take them first if anyone is interested

[Wanderman]

Would love to see pictures!