Today was the day to search for the leak between the supply and the drivers side rear slide seal. I put a shutoff valve inline with a gauge to see how fast it leaks. The bedroom slide cover at the ceiling was removed exposing the pneumatic connection. The connection does not appear to be leaking, no bubbles and no acoustic noise. Regardless of what I discover I will put a compression fitting on the air line.
Jim
2014 Newell Coach 1482 Mid Entry 45'8" Valid Slides and Valid Levelling
(This post was last modified: 09-23-2022, 04:13 PM by hypoxia.)
The air leak on the driver side bedroom seal was at the bottom of the slide where the seal is folded over and clamped down. After looking at it with a bore scope and using an acoustic detector to pinpoint the leak I decided to try an experiment. When I get a flat tire on my off road vehicles I use rubber cement and rope plugs to repair them. I bummed a syringe from my inhouse nurse, filled it with rubber cement and injected it into the seal where the leak was. I let it set all night and turned the air on this morning to pressurize the seal. Using the acoustic detector I cannot hear anything, it appears the leak may be fixed. I'll leave it cure for a few days before I vacuum the slide & check the operation.
Jim
2014 Newell Coach 1482 Mid Entry 45'8" Valid Slides and Valid Levelling
I put a heater in that room in an attempt to improve the cure time of the rubber cement. I think I'll leave it cure for a week or until I can't stand the suspense.
Jim
2014 Newell Coach 1482 Mid Entry 45'8" Valid Slides and Valid Levelling
(12-19-2022, 06:24 AM)hypoxia Wrote: I put a heater in that room in an attempt to improve the cure time of the rubber cement. I think I'll leave it cure for a week or until I can't stand the suspense.
A friend replaced the inflation type slide seal with this, which he purchased on ebay. bought 200' of it, and secured it in the slot for the seal. Works great. It's 1" high. Might be able to purchase from https://www.steelerubber.com/
(12-19-2022, 06:24 AM)hypoxia Wrote: I put a heater in that room in an attempt to improve the cure time of the rubber cement. I think I'll leave it cure for a week or until I can't stand the suspense.
A friend replaced the inflation type slide seal with this, which he purchased on ebay. bought 200' of it, and secured it in the slot for the seal. Works great. It's 1" high. Might be able to purchase from https://www.steelerubber.com/
I can see where some folks might want to go that direction but I like the inflatable seals. If the hole was anywhere on the main part of the seal I would just replace it. Since it's at the fold and still works it's worth some experimentation.
Jim
2014 Newell Coach 1482 Mid Entry 45'8" Valid Slides and Valid Levelling
I ran the slide in and out which is two vacuum and inflation cycles. Everything worked and the slide seal is not leaking. I had my lucky rabbits foot which may have helped.
Jim
2014 Newell Coach 1482 Mid Entry 45'8" Valid Slides and Valid Levelling
I remember 40 years ago purchasing a kit where you could make o-rings from lengths of "Buna-N-rubber cord. It had a precise cutter and a V block to ensure that the ends were lined up correctly. There was a special glue Cyanoacrylate adhesive. Those orings were so tough that you couldn't pull them apart.
I just looked it up and they still sell that kit at NAPA Part #: BK 7701018 Line: Balkamp or on Amazon Loctite 112 O-ring making kit which comes with a cleaning solvent and Locktite 404 glue
Now in my thinking, if you can make o rings from rubber rope material, why cant it work to repair a split in the slide seal?
Loctite 404 442-46551 0.333oz Quick Set Instant Adhesive, Clear Color $38 on Amazon L
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