[Wanderman]

Hey all
  I am in Albuqurque gettig my newly purchased Newell reay to travel back to New York.
 
Silly question: What is the normal boost gauge at idle? If I rev the engine (warm) will I see any rise, or only under load?

Also, after shutdown I am hering a hissing leak (?) from he passenger side of the engine ner the top of the compartment and forward.

There MAY be a propanetype smell as well,but that may have been from another coach nearby.

Any answers would be appreciated!

Rick

[Winegrower]

Rick,
It seems like you're pointing in the direction of the turbo. While you're waiting for educated input I'll offer the following: is it possible that clamps or hoses associated with the turbo have failed? Are there air lines in the location you described? If there are try mixing a few drops of dawn in water in a spray bottle and spray the area looking for leaks.
One of the most useful tools you'll have owning a Newell is that spray bottle. Closely followed by a good headlamp to keep both hands free while you're searching.
Bob

[Cienzo1]

Rick,

On my coach the turbo boost gauge is at zero at idle.  The only time the gauge rises is under an engine load.  I don't believe revving the engine in neutral is enough to make it rise.

As for your hissing air leak in the passenger side upper front engine compartment, it sounds like it could either be your 6-pack or your water separator.  My water separator has been disconnected since they are notorious for air leaks.  It may just be a bad O-ring or you may need a new one.  Harbor Freight has them or you can order on amazon.  Or search for Richard's post on how to get rid of them altogether.  If it's your 6-pack it may just need some cleaning and rebuilding.  Tom has rebuild kits if you'd like to order one.  That thread is probably the most popular post on the forum.

Like Bob said, get a spray bottle.  Put a half cup of dawn dish soap and fill the rest with water in a quart size spray bottle.  Spray everything down and you'll see exactly where the leak is.

When you get the leak narrowed down let us know and we'll tell you how to fix it.

[encantotom]

i know you are trying to cover all the bases and that is great. that said, there are alot of sounds coming from back there.

a simple drive around the block will test your boost gauge and turbo. not completely but enough to see if you can generate boost.

as for propane, i dont think that coach has a propane tank does it?

there are so many airlines in the engine area. and locating sound is very misleading. it echoes all over the place.

i had a clamp break and intercooler hose come off on the far back side on the top while on the freeway. boost went to nothing, black smoke poured out the exhaust like crazy and i had no power and drove 15 miles an hour till i got off the freeway. point being, if an intercooler hose is off, you know it.

as for airlines.....brakes, numerous brake system valves, air dryer in the drives side tag wheelwell. airbags, leveling system, numerous tanks, six packs.....to name a few that are in the engine compartment and area.

make sure it is safe, but trying to fix everything on maiden voyage may be asking a bit much.

that said, dont want to get stranded. the mechanic you are using should be able to help

tom

[Wanderman]

Thnls for the inof.

the ir leak is coming from solenoid below the air water seperator. This in turn feeds another block round the corner which i not leaking. The is a 2 inch by 1/2 inch block wth two air lines and power. It seems to bleed down to aroun 90 lbs then stop after the co is shut down.

Thanks!

R

[Cienzo1]

I believe that's either your tag axle solenoid or your drive diff lock solenoid.  This is what I would do.  Flip the tag axle (increase/decrease weight) and diff lock rocker switches by the driver seat and see if that stops the leak.  If the leak stops then I would exercise the switches a few more times and see if the leak stops after switching back to normal.  If it doesn't then I'd check what fittings are on the solenoid.  If the hoses have quick disconnect fittings you'll want to replace with compression fittings.  If it has compression fittings on it you may need a new solenoid.  I have replaced mine and they're not incredibly expensive.

[BobALou]

Since you brought up the turbo, I'll add a data point. I was getting numerous check engine lights for "boost pressure too high" and, then, my gauge ended up pegged at full boost even at idle. Won't go into unnecessary detail, but ended up replacing the barometric sensor harness. This was on a DD Series 60...not sure if yours is a 60.

[encantotom]

there is an entire thread on the boost pressure too high on the prevost forum. i had the same problem on my 02 and found out that it actually doesnt even have sensor for high boost and that the error was false. but it did give me a check engine light and put me into safe mode. i pulled over, shut the engine on and off and it never came on again.

there is a tsb from detroit on it as well somewhere.

i guess it depends on which series 60 engine setup you have

but a very good comment and something to be aware of.

tom