[Richard]

I am posting this so it will be easy to find for someone in a future search. 

To make a very long journey short, I have been chasing excessive play or slop in the center of the steering for the last two years. 

To that end I adjusted the steering gear sector screw about ten gazillion times, using the TRW recommended method, using trial and error by adjusting at almost every rest stop, using the torque input method outlined in the TRW rebuild manual, and also using a method I made up requiring a dial indicator. I could definitely get it tight, but the play at the center was still there. 

So I went on the proverbial witch hunt. I rebuilt the box, but that really wasn't the problem. 

I found three things. 

One, and most likely the worst offender, was that the pinch bolt which clamps the steering column to the intermediate steering shaft was not tight enough. There was a wee bit of play at that connection. Doesn't seem like much, but that situation is really compounded if you study power transmission. You can have a rotating shaft with two u joints IF, and only IF, both ends are secure. Well one of the ends was not completely secure so that allows a lot more slop than you would imagine. It's easy to access, pull the leather cover off the steering column and it's right at the floor level. 

Two, I replaced the universal joints in the intermediate steering shaft. I could feel the slightest lash, and what the heck I had it on the bench while rebuilding the steering box. I looked carefully at the old u joints and the joint races were slightly brinnelled, meaning they were indented. It happens. 

Three, and this one is important. For two years I have been looking at the TRW manuals for the steering gear. They all reference a zerk fitting on the output shaft for greasing the output bearing. I NEVER found it, and I looked many times. When I got the box on the bench, it was there plain as day. And, the bearing was DRY. That's not good because it could have been binding the output shaft slightly. Probably wouldn't matter when you steered cause the hydraulics were over power any stiction, but letting the wheels self center could have been impacted if this bearing were tight. So where is this beast. If you are lying on your back looking up at the box. It will be on the side of the box facing the rear of the coach. There is only about two inches of clearance to get your hand up there. It will be at the same level as the output shaft of course. It may have a rubber cover on it so it may not feel like a zerk. There is no way that anyone would ever see this fitting and know to grease it. It is going to take a short right angle fitting on the gun to grease it. If I had any brains I would have installed a remote fitting while I had the box out.. 

After doing this work and taking a long test drive. I notice two things. One, the dead space in the middle is virtually gone. Two, the steering seems to self center much better without me having to consciously undo the steering input I just made. Or maybe I just know it has to be better after all the work I did 

[folivier]

And I learnt 2 new words: brinnelled and stiction.
Glad you finally got it working to your satisfaction and even MORE glad that your trip will now proceed on Rhonda's schedule.

[bryguymi]

Thank you Richard for posting this!  Play in the wheel is one of my biggest pet peeves, and our new-to-us Newell does have a little. Your post gives me some direction, MUCH appreciated.  Bryan

[Richard]

I have to amend this post.

Today, I was just playing around with the steering wheel and I still felt some free play that just didn't seem right. I removed the steering column cover and I could see the upper u joint moving around. Hmmmm, that's not right. When I saw that before I wrongly assumed that the connection between the steering column and the intermediate steering shaft had some slop in it.

I checked the play of the steering column before I reinstalled the intermediate shaft and it was very little side to side. Almost undetectable. But now I can clearly see movement, and if I put my hand on the connection, it definitely is moving around when I move the steering wheel back and forth. What the heck?

So I took the whole steering column out. It really isn't that much work , and it took about fifteen minutes. One bolt on the pinch clamp, four bolts holding it to the mount, and five quick disconnect electrical fittings.

I put the column upside down in the vice (after removing the steering wheel), and what I saw was shocking and exciting at the same time. Finally, a smoking gun! You can see in the second pic how off center the ID is to the OD. That is how much play is in this bearing.

   
   

There is a bearing in the bottom of the column that is supposed to keep the column stable as it rotates. Only if it is stable will the two u joints in the intermediate shaft work without wobble. The bearing is just plain shot. It probably has 0.020 play in it once I got it out of the column. So why didn't I feel it, when the whole thing is assembled. At the top end of the steering column is a spring loaded thingie that keeps a spring preload on both the upper and lower bearing. The spring pulls the slop out of it when just wiggling it by hand. But when you turn the 20 inch steering wheel you generate a lot more force and the force overrides the preload and allowed that bearing to wallow.

I am not replacing with stock. It looks like the bearing was crapola to begin with. I found a 3/4 id  2.0 od sealed bearing that will work.

I can't wait to install it and see just how much difference that makes.

Three years of searching and FINALLY I found an assignable cause for the dead spot in the middle of my steering.  Can you tell I'm excited?

Stay tuned since this has turned into somewhat of live broadcast.

[Richard]

I had to wait four days for the bearing I wanted to get here. It was like a kid waiting for Christmas.

I now have 8 mm or 5/16 of play before I can detect movement in the pitman arm. The difference is very noticeable to me. I won't get to drive it before we leave on Thursday, so I have to wait two more days for the on the road evaluation.

Here is a pic of the original size bearing and the one I installed.
   

I can't really say what had the most effect but in my mind in order of impact was the loose clamp on the u joint to steering shaft, worn out steering column bearing, and then the u joints themselves. 

All of this applies to the generic GM steering column that Newell used until the Smart Wheels came along. 

If you have the GM column it is very easy to check to see if you have this problem. Remove the skirt around the steering column by removing the two screws on either side right at the top of the skirt. You can now see the ujoint at the floor level. Put one hand on the ujoint and turn the steering wheel back and forth with the other. If the ujoint wobbles, then further investigation is called for. The joint should be solid as a rock with NO wiggle.

[Shamu406]

Thanks for all your hard work and sharing Richard! I'll check mine too.

[Richard]

It is with very mixed emotions that I report the on the road behavior after all the effort put into the steering setup.

In one way I had rationalized that at 200k miles, the old girl would never drive to suit me, and it was enough ammo to convince the CFO that we absolutely had to have one of those steerable tag gizmo rigs.

But, sigh, this thing now drives like it's on rails. The stability and steadiness are beyond even my high expectations. My rationalization for trading coaches has somewhat evaporated after the CFO observed 400 miles of one handed driving, in gusty conditions no less.

So I suppose the two weeks, and $276 of parts (including two seal kits, cause I clipped an O ring) saved me about 200k.

[HoosierDaddy]

After following along on your excellent adventure with the steering on your current coach I can only imagine the fun we'd have when you add in the opportunities presented by a steerable tag!!! The "occupational opportunities" approach might get traction with the CFO....?

[folivier]

Is it time for a Go Fund Me page?

[encantotom]

What is the part number for the bearing. Tim needs that bearing

Tom