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Anyone have some detail on removing cover? I did call Newell and understand there are fasteners aft facing, behind vertical cover in aft bath and some above valve cover. Wondering if someone has a bit more detail
JD

[Richard]

John,

Post a pic of your rear bathroom or closet for accurate instructions.

Here are some details. From the engine bay. Remove the air filter and the corresponding hard piping. Then behind the air filter are some aluminum panels. Remove the center one. It should have about 4 bolts in it.

Now look at the ceiling of the engine compartment on either side of the valve cover. You will find at least two bolts and possibly four that go up into the floor of the bathroom. Remove them.

In the coach, and I am assuming you have a rear bath. Look at floor level at the rear. That panel is velcroed in place. Remove it carefully so as not to crack it. Behind the panel, in the center, you will see a wooden section bolted or screwed into place. Remove it.

The outline of the hatch should now be visible to you. Take a thin putty knife and trace the outline to break up any crud in the joint. Go back to the engine bay, put a large block of wood on top of the valve cover, and use a 2X4 as a lever to push upward on the hatch. Some pop loose easily, some require more persuasion.

If you are going to this trouble, by all means adjust the valves, injectors, and jakes while you have the hatch open.

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Perfect-
 I am doing the overhead and will pressure test cac also.
JD

[Richard]

I don’t know the mileage on your engine, and if the overhead has been done previously. Most, my self included, report almost 1 mpg gain when the overhead is set. I hope the same for you.

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Is this a Detroit or a Cat engine?

[Fulltiming]

I show it is a Series 60 Detroit.

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I show it is a Series 60 Detroit.

Thanks Michael!

With a Detroit of that vintage I would check and see if it has the updated unitized rocker adjusters, this is around the time they were transitioning from the clip style. The clips have come off and either end up in the oil pan or worse they get into something more expensive. 

Here is what the clip style adjusters look like:
   

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Some key things removing the cover- three screws into floor. fortunately no drivers side forward.   After cutting the silicone caulk in seam from the  bathroom side, we wedged boards as recommended by richard. Key is not to tip it up too far on one end as it wedges itself in. loosen all corners then push straight up.

I cannot tell by looking if I have the valve keepers mentioned earlier.  Rollers look great,JakeBrake wires ok.
Thanks for the help .
JD

[[email protected]]

Some key things removing the cover- three screws into floor. fortunately no drivers side forward.   After cutting the silicone caulk in seam from the  bathroom side, we wedged boards as recommended by richard. Key is not to tip it up too far on one end as it wedges itself in. loosen all corners then push straight up.

I cannot tell by looking if I have the valve keepers mentioned earlier.  Rollers look great,JakeBrake wires ok.
Thanks for the help .
JD

You have the newer style jakes and those are the (good) unitized adjusters, nothing to worry about!