[360]

On my last trip I noticed that diesel was not firing.  Had recently replaced the nozzle as I had not been running it often enough in the off season.  It worked fine prior to nozzle and after.  When I flip the switch the unit comes on but then does not fire.  After a little trouble shooting with Rudy he thought was a failed brain, but that was not it.  I'm assuming now that we know it's not the brain that the next thing to check would be that the igniter firing?

If yes, how does one go about testing that?

[afrench]

Just talked to Newell about a similar issue this morning.
Assuming the brain you’re talking about the diesel control module or the board?
They also mentioned something about the photo cell eye being clean

[360]

Just talked to Newell about a similar issue this morning.
Assuming the brain you’re talking about the diesel control module or the board?
They also mentioned something about the photo cell eye being clean

By brain I meant the box that hangs off the side of the burner.  I cleaned photo eye when I changed the nozzle.

[cwl1979]

Is the fuel getting to the unit? Mine had to cycle a while before it finally fired. I removed the return line and stuck it in a container to make sure the air was removed from the system. After that i reconnected it and it fired right up. Can you hear the Clicking sound from the igniter? Kinda sounds like a gas grill with the push button igniter, like electrical zapping noise? If you can hear that then the igniter is working.

[360]

Is the fuel getting to the unit? Mine had to cycle a while before it finally fired. I removed the return line and stuck it in a container to make sure the air was removed from the system. After that i reconnected it and it fired right up. Can you hear the Clicking sound from the igniter? Kinda sounds like a gas grill with the push button igniter, like electrical zapping noise? If you can hear that then the igniter is working.

Can not hear that zapping noise like a grill igniting.  Getting fuel as there is then fuel leaking just a little bit as I'm assuming its dripping down from not igniting?

[cwl1979]

Possibly ignitor points are out of adjustment? Or the photo eye has crapped out. If that craps out it should see light and would cause it to not fire.

Id say the next question is how comfortable are you with taking things apart?

Page 45 is where the diesel burner troubleshooting starts.

[arcticdude]

I think you’ll find it’s more likely to be an igniter issue (gap, bad unit, etc). The flame sensor only keeps the burner burning after it’s started. It does not prevent startup.

Your original post stated “It worked fine prior to nozzle and after.” Is that correct? Meaning it was working correctly after you replaced to nozzle, but now it’s not (no ignition)?

[360]

I think you’ll find it’s more likely to be an igniter issue (gap, bad unit, etc).  The flame sensor only keeps the burner burning after it’s started.  It does not prevent startup. 

Your original post stated “It worked fine prior to nozzle and after.”  Is that correct?  Meaning it was working correctly after you replaced to nozzle, but now it’s not (no ignition)?

Yes.  Had too much white smoke so I replaced nozzle.  Smoke went away aside from a little residual that was probably in the exhaust pipe that needed to burn off, but it was working fine.  Went on a trip a few weeks later and mid trip I noticed I had flipped on diesel one day as we still needed some A/C during the day and it would not fire.

Tried to be super careful when replacing nozzle to not move points and I did clean the photo eye.

[rvguy]

I think you’ll find it’s more likely to be an igniter issue (gap, bad unit, etc).  The flame sensor only keeps the burner burning after it’s started.  It does not prevent startup. 

Your original post stated “It worked fine prior to nozzle and after.”  Is that correct?  Meaning it was working correctly after you replaced to nozzle, but now it’s not (no ignition)?

Yes.  Had too much white smoke so I replaced nozzle.  Smoke went away aside from a little residual that was probably in the exhaust pipe that needed to burn off, but it was working fine.  Went on a trip a few weeks later and mid trip I noticed I had flipped on diesel one day as we still needed some A/C during the day and it would not fire.

Tried to be super careful when replacing nozzle to not move points and I did clean the photo eye.

They sell a break out box that you can buy for like 250.00. you just unhook your brain box on the side and plug it in, at that time you can run everything manually, 1 part at a time. Comes in very helpful sometimes.  
If you need a new so called brain box  . dont go thru newell, it costs 980.00
call frerichs electronics  308-440-5154  talk to jim.   totally rebuillt unit 500.00  with a warranty  if you send your old box back  you get 100.00 refund for the core.
he has the 12v box and the 24v box if needed

[360]

I think you’ll find it’s more likely to be an igniter issue (gap, bad unit, etc).  The flame sensor only keeps the burner burning after it’s started.  It does not prevent startup. 

Your original post stated “It worked fine prior to nozzle and after.”  Is that correct?  Meaning it was working correctly after you replaced to nozzle, but now it’s not (no ignition)?

Yes.  Had too much white smoke so I replaced nozzle.  Smoke went away aside from a little residual that was probably in the exhaust pipe that needed to burn off, but it was working fine.  Went on a trip a few weeks later and mid trip I noticed I had flipped on diesel one day as we still needed some A/C during the day and it would not fire.

Tried to be super careful when replacing nozzle to not move points and I did clean the photo eye.

They sell a break out box that you can buy for like 250.00. you just unhook your brain box on the side and plug it in, at that time you can run everything manually, 1 part at a time. Comes in very helpful sometimes.  
If you need a new so called brain box  . dont go thru newell, it costs 980.00
call frerichs electronics  308-440-5154  talk to jim.   totally rebuillt unit 500.00  with a warranty  if you send your old box back  you get 100.00 refund for the core.
he has the 12v box and the 24v box if needed

Thanks for those tips.  I am for sure a visual learner and when I searched for said break out box it lead me to this video which I found really helpful.  I had already went through changing a nozzle, etc. but had I watched this first I would have been slicker on the first try.  He also sells a little box to connect remotely like you talk about.  I'm sure those on here way handier than be would build their own, but I'll order one up as for me it's a way to support good content online.  

https://youtu.be/nj_BqehNu64?si=fx2p_E_yQIKYbYOU