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96 Newell cranking but not starting
#51

So I attached the sprayer directly to fuel hose going to fuel pump and tried priming from there. I know you said to take the fuel hose coming from the tank off and insert the adapter to primary filter which I also tried and still couldn’t get it to start. I attached some more pictures here. I will report back what happens next. Thank you ?


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Ole
1996 Newell 45’
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#52

I had my primer diaphragm fail at an overnight stop. Had to replace the whole thing. Was about 265.00

Was pretty easy to source. Having to push the button a thousand times (that's what it felt like!) was not all that fun. But it started and has been good since then.

Even cheaper now. Multiple sources online:

https://www.racorstore.com/racor-490rrac...-with.html

Be seeing you,

Rick Miller
#423
1996, 45'+, Non-slide, Series 60, ABS, 1.5 Bath, Reverse Floorplan


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#53

Ole it might be time to hire a mobile diesel mechanic in the long run it could save you money as you don't want to make another problem trying to fix the first one.

1999 45'  #504 "Magnolia"
Gravette, Arkansas
1996 40 XL Prevost Marathon 
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#54

Thanks gentlemen. I appreciate all your help and insights. I did hire a mechanic and it looked like the ECM was communicating fine but we found that that all injectors are inactive or response time is too long. According to him and what I’ve read it’s likely the wiring harness or there’s a ground or electrical issue. Per Richard’s advice I disconnected and cleaned the ECM connections with contact cleaner. When I disconnected the top connection of the harness to the ECM I did see it had oil inside the connection that dripped out and I thought that could be the problem but I tried cranking after I cleaned it and it still wouldn’t start. I then tried pressing the emergency switch but nothing changed. I’ve got an expert Newell guru (Jeff) coming out to help me and I will let you all know what we find. Thanks again

Ole
1996 Newell 45’
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#55

Good News!

1999 45'  #504 "Magnolia"
Gravette, Arkansas
1996 40 XL Prevost Marathon 
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#56

So Jeff came by and helped me out over the weekend. Thanks Jeff. After going down a list of electrical and mechanical issues that could be the culprits, we (I should say he as Jeff did most of the work) were able to determine that there’s not enough fuel reaching the engine. It is our belief that the there’s something clogging the line and/or the back flow preventer needs to be replaced. We tried to get the whole fuel line with the back flow valve off by fishing it through the hole between the tanks and the engine  but we were unsuccessful. We couldn’t get under the coach which may be the best option. It seems the only way to get it off is cutting it off. Anyway, I wanted to post this to thank Jeff again for his help and getting us to a diagnosis and also to see if anyone had replaced theirs (fuel line and or back flow preventer or both) and could give me the part numbers to order them? We are getting close ?

Ole
1996 Newell 45’
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#57

A couple of things.

Before you take the coach apart, cobble together some fittings and use a 5 gallon can of diesel directly into the fuel filter. Or use the pressure sprayer. We may have crossed wires. When using the pressure sprayer, pump it up, and leave it attached until the engine runs. That way you fill the filter and line to the engine.

Getting under the coach will do NOTHING for you on the fuel line. Open the fuel bay door, and remove the shiny stainless vanity plate. All of the threaded bungs for the fuel lines are within reach. I was able to use a crow’s foot wrench to loosen the fuel line from the elbow where it goes into the tank.

If it were me, at the this point I am pulling that filter assembly and replacing with a Davco see so I can see what is going on with the fuel. https://www.jmesales.com/davco-fuel-pro-...h0QAvD_BwE. A few posts back you said you saw bubbles at the primer bulb when using the pressure sprayer. If bubbles coming out, bubbles going in. If that is true, that is where you are losing prime.

Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
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#58

(08-20-2024, 12:27 PM)Richard Wrote:  A couple of things.

Before you take the coach apart, cobble together some fittings and use a 5 gallon can of diesel directly into the fuel filter. Or use the pressure sprayer. We may have crossed wires. When using the pressure sprayer, pump it up, and leave it attached until the engine runs. That way you fill the filter and line to the engine.

Getting under the coach will do NOTHING for you on the fuel line. Open the fuel bay door, and remove the shiny stainless vanity plate. All of the threaded bungs for the fuel lines are within reach. I was able to use a crow’s foot wrench to loosen the fuel line from the elbow where it goes into the tank.

If it were me, at the this point I am pulling that filter assembly and replacing with a Davco see so I can see what is going on with the fuel. https://www.jmesales.com/davco-fuel-pro-...h0QAvD_BwE. A few posts back you said you saw bubbles at the primer bulb when using the pressure sprayer. If bubbles coming out, bubbles going in. If that is true, that is where you are losing prime.

So to fill in all of what was done while I was there. I did some preliminary electrical checks to make sure the ECM was getting power and grounds. There is a voltage issue as the ECM power drops to 9v when cranking. I believe this to be the batteries being low and the battery cables are most likely corroded. I think there is a good chance it will fire if it weren’t for the second issue, which is fuel. The fuel filter has a 1” line with JIC fittings on it going to the tank. I used my vacuum and pressurized the fuel tank and removed the 1” line at the fuel filter and we got almost no fuel at all! The tank made a distinct sound and we were getting plenty of pressure in the tank. So we moved to the top of the tank, we removed the vanity panel and eventually found the correct line going to the fuel filter. After some struggling on my part, and a dumb moment of trying to turn the JIC swivel in the wrong direction, we go the the fuel line off the tank. I once again pressurized the tank with my vacuum for a second and we got plenty of fuel right at the top of the tank. So we then blew compressed air through the line, to blow out any obstructions and possibly free up the check valve. Compressed air would go through the line but we still could not get fuel through the line. I am thinking the check valve is gummed up with old fuel. The check valve is too far in to reach so we decided to try to pull the line out, we put a rope on the line so we would have something to pull a new line back in. The line was not in good shape so it need to be replaced no matter what. Unfortunately the line got stuck on the check valve and we could not get it to budge. At this point we had worked in the Florida heat for about as long as both Ole and I could stand and we decided we needed to take a break and revisit this another day. I do agree it would be nice to go ahead and get fuel to the engine and see if it will run, but we just ran out of energy to do that. I am fairly confident the engine is not getting adequate fuel. I pulled the pressure side line off the fuel pump and I was just getting a trickle of fuel, no way the engine is going to run on that. So hopefully with a new line in hand we will get it installed, prime the system and I beleive it will fire.

Jeff LoGiudice
Temple Terrace, Fl
1984 Bluebird Wanderlodge PT40
1998 Newell 2000 #490
1986 MCI/TMC 102A3 (sold)
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#59

Yes heat is an issue as far as working on these things that's why I start at daybreak or before but if the line going into the tank has a leak then it could suck air my thought is if you were to get together something to where you could have a pressurized tank of diesel into the fuel filter (Richards thoughts) this most certainly would lead you in the right direction. You've covered all the bases sounds like you've done what you could.
Get the battery issued figured out first.

1999 45'  #504 "Magnolia"
Gravette, Arkansas
1996 40 XL Prevost Marathon 
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#60

Jeff,

That is great stuff, thank you for adding the rest of the story. It spurs a couple of thoughts. One, if the coach had a primer on top of the tank, then that line is piped into the main fuel line. Without disconnecting it, the main line is not going very far. If it’s not tied into a primer, then you are experiencing the Newell zip tie phenom. To the best of my memory, the main line runs across the tank and in the space behind the battery bay before it exits into the engine bay. You may not be able to get the old line out, but may be able to snake a new line. I was not able to snake a new line when I was trying to get my broken fuel pickup calamity off the side of the road.

Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
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