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96 Newell cranking but not starting
#21

Try giving Richard Simpson (the owner) of Clearwater Motorcoaches a call. The number is (727)614-8243. He should know somebody in your area or may have somebody working for him to help.

06 M450LXi 3 slide
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#22

I had an issue one time I left the fast idle switch in the on position when I turned off the coach, it sputtered an would not catch then noticed what I had done switched it back to off and it fired up. Not saying this is your problem but it happened to me.

1999 45'  #504 "Magnolia"
Gravette, Arkansas
1996 40 XL Prevost Marathon 
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#23

Ole, I had a similar problem on 316. After hours of trouble shooting we found the inside of the main fuel line was collapsing and limiting fuel. After the fuel line was replaced I mounted a fuel pressure gauge to the engine to aid in future trouble shooting.

   

1993 Newell (316) 45' 8V92,towing an Imperial open trailer or RnR custom built enclosed trailer. FMCA#232958 '67 Airstream Overlander 27' '67GTO,'76TransAm,'52Chevy panel, 2000 Corvette "Lingenfelter"modified, '23 Grand Cherokee.
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#24

Ole, you said sputtered and stalled. How many times did you prime and try to crank? The reason I ask, is after running the fuel pump and fuel lines after the filter completely dry, it may take 3 or 4 prime and crank events before you get them to completely refill.

The fact that it will sputter almost eliminates all electrical issues.

If I were in your situation, this is what I would try. I would disconnect the the fuel line from the tank into the fuel filter. I would adapt that fitting into the fuel filter to allow me to attach a three foot section of clear hose of at least 1/2 inch inner diameter. I would run the clear hose into a fresh 5 gallon jug of diesel. Then I would prime the heck out of it.

My logic is the use of the can right at the filter will eliminate any possibility of the fuel line sucking air. The clear tube will allow you to sort of see if the fuel is flowing. If it cranks, let it run until it smooths out and stop. You do not want to suck all the fuel out of the can and lose prime again. It will use up the five gallons much faster than you think because the fuel pump oversupplies the injectors and the fuel not used goes into the fuel tank.

Another trick to prime the engine is the use a NEW pump up garden sprayer, and cobble a fitting into the fuel input of the filter.

The sputter and stall just sounds like a fuel issue to me. The Serious 60 is known for difficulty to prime because the fuel pump is gear pump, which doesn’t “suck” as well as some other designs.

Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
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#25

Thank you all. I’ve tried it 15-20 times Richard and I’m losing battery cranking power and it’s not “sputtering “ anymore. I will try and see if I can figure out how to do what you are recommending. I called Florida Detroit in adamo dr. Here in Brandon that Kris Jones in zephyrhills recommended and they want $195 and hour plus mileage starting from when their technician leaves their shop. That’ll be my last resort. Thanks again!

Ole
1996 Newell 45’
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#26

(06-07-2024, 04:40 AM)Ole Wrote:  Thank you all. I’ve tried it 15-20 times Richard and I’m losing battery cranking power and it’s not “sputtering “ anymore. I will try and see if I can figure out how to do what you are recommending. I called Florida Detroit in adamo dr. Here in Brandon that Kris Jones in zephyrhills recommended and they want $195 and hour plus mileage starting from when their technician leaves their shop. That’ll be my last resort. Thanks again!

Ole, are you in dire need to fix this situation by a certain date? I may be able to help, unfortunately this weekend I am booked up with existing customers, but depending on how long they take I may be able to come and assist you.

Jeff LoGiudice
Temple Terrace, Fl
1984 Bluebird Wanderlodge PT40
1998 Newell 2000 #490
1986 MCI/TMC 102A3 (sold)
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#27

Thanks Jeff. I’m in no hurry as my coach is a project and I’m not going anywhere any time soon. I’d rather pay someone who knows these coaches. Please call me whenever you are free. Thanks 813-549-9690

Ole
1996 Newell 45’
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#28

Mr Ole,

I hope I am helping and not sending you down the wrong path. From your posting history, I see the coach is relatively new to you. I am going to suggest a few things in detail that you may or may not be aware of.

Let’s start with your reply “tried it 15 or 20 times” till the batteries are going down. So keeping in mind, because I am SO guilty of this myself, the armchair mechanics ONLY know what you write. Sometimes the devil is in the fine print. So forgive me for asking a dumb question, did you use the primer pump to reprime on EACH attempt?

Second, about the batteries. I don’t know if the coach is plugged in, and even if it is plugged in if there is an echo charger to charge the cranking batteries. Newell equips the coaches with a MERGE switch which combines the house batteries and the cranking batteries. If you are plugged in, I would make sure the inverter is charging the house batteries, and then activate the merge switch. To verify that the chassis batteries are indeed charging, I would use my voltmeter before and after merging. Obviously the voltage should be a bit higher by a tenth or two when the batteries are being charged. Now, if the coach is not plugged in, crank the generator. Again, ensure the inverter is charging the house batteries. Since it isn’t plugged in, give the gen about an hour to bring the house batteries up, and then activate the MERGE. Use the voltmeter to ensure that you are indeed charging the chassis batteries. Why do all this, diesel engines need to turn over at a minimum RPM to generate enough compression to make the engine fire off.

Third thing, when you are trying to crank the engine, you said you get the check and stop lights to come on and then go off. That’s good. At the time you are trying to crank the engine, leave the key in the ON position and look at the Prodriver to see if you have any error codes. Please let us know if you have codes and confirm that you do not have codes.

I am happy that Jeff may be able to help you, if we were still in Florida, I would also wander down and see if I could confuse the issue even more.

Fourth thing, there is a very simple but messy way to determine if the fuel pump is indeed pumping fuel. Loosen the output line on the pump, cover the area with rags, lot’s of rags, and turn the engine over for 15 seconds. If the pump is pumping fuel, you will have some diesel soaked rags.


If you do not have diesel soak rags, then you are going to have to force prime the system. I keep forgetting that most folks are not ex plumbers like me. You can get everything you need to force prime the system at an ACE hardware or Lowes/Home Depot. First obtain a new pump up bug sprayer, two gallon would be perfect. Remove the spray end from the hose and go to the plumbing section. You are looking for a hose barb fitting that will snugly slip into the hose. The next thing you need is a FLARED fitting to mate to the fitting on the intake side of the fuel filter. Don’t get caught up in the fact that the flared fitting is not automotive grade. This is a temporary setup. Both the automotive grade and the ACE variety are 37 degree JIC fittings and it will seal. Now all you have to do is mate the pipe thread of the hose barb to the flared fitting. Tighten it all up, and pump up the sprayer to force fuel into the filter. If you do indeed have a lost prime issue, this will either crank the engine or confirm that the problem is something else.

Why am I harping on the lost prime?
1. Sputter and stall sound like a fuel issue
2. Tried to crank but sputtered and stalled after a new filter.
3. The number one cause of any diesel engine not running.

In my way of going about this problem, I have to absolutely eliminate fuel before I go after more unlikely causes.

Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
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#29

Richard, yes I’m new to the Newell family of coaches and I’m in real estate sales here in Tampa. I have no plumbing nor mechanical experience so I sometimes think I’ve “bit off more than I can chew” but I don’t mind getting dirty and tinkering with my coach. Anyway, I appreciate you and all folks on here that have and continue to help me. In response to you, I’m the “ dumb” one because I’ve tried cranking it 15-20 times but didn’t know I had to prime each time. Blush I don’t even know where to prime it because I can’t find a “knob” in fuel bay. Mine only has a black plastic button on top of fuel filter housing that I can push in. I’m guessing that’s where I would prime it?
Regarding the batteries I will make sure to charge the chassis batteries with the generator as you described since my coach is not plugged in. I will check them with my volt meter but they are in the red 8-10 volts.
Unfortunately my Prodriver hasn’t worked since I purchased the coach last year and says something like “unable to download data” but is on my list of items to get fixed. 
I will try and get the fuel primed with either method you’ve suggested. You are definitely helping and I really appreciate it! Thanks again.

Ole
1996 Newell 45’
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#30

Ole this is the knob it's located on top of the fuel tank and where you would prime it, if you've not been priming the fuel system that is your problem. Also do you have enough battery to start the generator? If you do fire off the generator it should charge the house batteries which will charge the engine batteries through the echo charger Richard had mentioned. As time goes on you will become familiar with these things on the newell coaches I'm still learning and been here going on 2 years in October.


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1999 45'  #504 "Magnolia"
Gravette, Arkansas
1996 40 XL Prevost Marathon 
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