[Latitude 28]

That is correct.....my internal orings were in pieces and needed a bit of persuasion but still came out relatively easy.   With a new orings it should be an easy push back in...may need a little and I mean a little help from your brass drift.

[dlkj07]

That is correct.....my internal orings were in pieces and needed a bit of persuasion but still came out relatively easy.   With a new orings it should be an easy push back in...may need a little and I mean a little help from your brass drift.

Great, really appreciate the help.

I'll report back...

[Jesse]

Must be the season for leaking lock pins. Just got done reading this post, happy i have within the last couple of weeks fixed my slide limit switch, power hwh issue, and reseated my slide seal without issue. Then my wife says whats all this red liquid all over the bedroom carpet??? I think reading this site is bad luck! So quick question- anyone remember the size for a brass cap to cap off the hydrolic line while I take apart the pin and replace the o-rings? Thanks to all the gurus out there!!!

Jesse and Sara White
2001 Newell Coach #582
Wasilla Alaska

[Jack Houpe]

Good for you brother! -4 AN cap

[dlkj07]

So wanted to wrap this up...I also posted this on the Foretravel forum.

Once the pin was out, I was able to source the 2 O-rings inside. One was by a snap ring (quad ring Part# AFM Q212) and the other was just a normal O-ring (Part# HERC 568-214). I don't have the part# for the cap O-Ring but was told it was a BOSS type, size 16, 90 Durometer. (Durometer is the hardness of an O-ring, just learned this.) I didn't have to remove the snap ring to remove and install the quad ring, just used a pick to remove then squeezed the new one back in.

Another issue is that the pin itself has some pitting right around the area that the quad ring sits when the pin is in the unlocked position (Slide open) I believe at some point water had leaked down the pin to the O-ring and sat there rusting the pin. I used 2000 grit sand paper and some emery cloth to clean it up the best I can though I can't guarantee it's not going to leak in the near future if that pitting area rubs back and forth on the O-ring. In the video you'll see my initial cleaning of the pin, but it looks a lot better once I finished as far as the scratch marks go.

I'm not happy with HWH at all. I've already heard some stories about their customer service and I'm sure it's not all bad but my experience confirms the negative comments I heard.
I asked how much it would be to just replace the pin and he said they couldn't sell me just the pin...wouldn't tell me why. Then I asked how much to send it in and have them replace the pin...he said a maximum of $400 but could be less. (mind you I can get a brand new one from Foretravel for $540 with discount) I pleaded with him to go ask his tech guys to at least give me a ballpark amount so I could make an educated decision...he said nope...I said that's not cool and he said we've been in business 55 years so I think we're doing just fine. I hung up on him.
Yeah, they have a proprietary piece of equipment that only they can produce so they can do what they want, guess they win.

I'll post some pics and a couple videos of my experience with the process...

Thanks again for the help!  Hope this helps someone in the future.


https://youtu.be/Sy9k7pagQkQ

https://youtu.be/850KUfAPoqg

[Richard]

Thank you for posting the follow-up. We are glad you got it all worked out.

If the pitting does cause failure soon, you could always have a machine shop make one.

[dlkj07]

Thank you for posting the follow-up. We are glad you got it all worked out.

If the pitting does cause failure soon, you could always have a machine shop make one.

No problem, I was thinking that maybe I could have someone make me one if it started leaking again.

[Latitude 28]

Pick you up some "Drill Rod" of the appropriate size....https://www.mcmaster.com/products/drill-rods/tight-tolerance-multipurpose-oil-hardening-o1-tool-steel-rods/. Machine it as is....after machining its easily heat treated.  Any machinist should be able to handle heat treating.  I'd be curious what the Rockwell hardness of the original pin.  Going a little harder should help with the scoring we see on these pins.

[Richard]

Oh excellent idea to buy a precision diameter rod !!!!! The taper could be done with side grinder since it's not critical .

[Latitude 28]

Side girder would work great!