[encantotom]

there is a piece of the aluminum skin just above the middle of my front salon slide that has come loose.  at some point the slide had caught on it.  it is a piece about 10 inches long.  

i do not want to rivet it.  i can push it in easily without any memory that would make it look like it is rippled.  

i can put my scissors lift up to it and use a piece of wood to push it flat once i get some adhesive in it.  i know i will need to cover the seal and clean it up inside.

so....the question is what adhesive to use to hold it.  i talked to newell and they said they use a 2 part expxy but didnt know what kind.  

has anyone done it and have a great expoxy or adhesive to recommend?

tom

[BusNit]

Tom, I used this product from Amazon. It worked great however where I used it was on the aluminum side moldings. Newell used 3M tape and screws to secure those trims on my year. Once I had the coach painted, the difference in metal thickness caused some pulling of the paint from the different temperature swings. Not sure if that would be an issue with yours. I see why they used something "flexible" to prevent the two metal's from contracting at different rates. Either way, that adhesive is some strong stuff. If you can put some VHB tape in the gap, that may work good too otherwise this stuff is excellent and permanent.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PE...UTF8&psc=1

[Jack Houpe]

I'm a big fan of 3M 5200, the quick cure version only takes 24 hours to set up. If you use this make sure to spray water on or around the panel, 5200 needs humidity or be underwater to cure.

Simon that looks like some good stuff, how long is the shelf life? 5200 will last forever if you put it in the freezer after you use it.

[Richard]

I would use this. https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/pr...ail/336174

It, and the regular version have become my go to for reattaching the bay door skins. I have not had a failure using this stuff, and it is so easy to use and apply with the mixing tips.

There are a couple of concepts that increase the success rate. One, have the two mating surfaces clean, and slight roughed up. Two, don’t squeeze all the epoxy out. My early failures with the bay doors was because I was using woodworker thinking where the clamping force is high as possible.

I also agree with Jack that 3M 5200 is a good product to use for this.

[bestgenman]

When at Newell in January, I saw this two part epoxy being used extensively.  I bought some and it is amazing !  Hope this is what you are looking for.

   

[[email protected]]

Great thread and looks like lots of great products to use. This is on my list of items to do. Have several bay doors that are pulling off and the main entry door is starting to come loose as well. Adding it to the list…

[encantotom]

thanks, i used 3m5200 to reset the seal between the top of the slides and the slide side skin. it is amazing stuff.

you guys have given me too many choices...ha. some of these require a gun that is more than the adhesive....that i will never use again....ha

the other fun thing will be getting the metal clean. the aluminum side skin should be relatively easy. the bubble sticks out about 3/4 inch. but the structure on the coach wall is all crusty. almost seems like rust. i wonder if the perimeter there is aluminum or steel.

tom

[Richard]

Steel.

A thin tool on the end of an oscillating tool is your friend.

[BusNit]

Tom, I have the gun if you need it.

[encantotom]

I will simon when I am ready. Will get ahold of ya

Thanks

Tom