03-12-2024, 09:48 AM
This is not intended as a full blown explanation of how to replace the air compressor, but rather some Newell specific things I learned along the way that may prove helpful to you in the future. There are lots of videos on the YouTube about replacing the compressor on a Series 60. I had to chuckle while watching because on the half dozen I watched. There was talk….blah blah blah. And then magically the compressor was out on on the bench. I wasn’t having much luck with that magic so here are some tips to help with a Series 60 Newell.
First, this is a BEAR. Tough access, and although the specs say the compressor weighs 53 lbs, I think that is low by at least a 100 lbs.
Remove the fuel pump. Have some flare plugs of the right size to keep the diesel from leaking out of the lines. You will appreciate the time it takes to do this when you don’t have to reprime the fuel system. The three bolts that hold the fuel pump on take a 8mm 12 point socket. Rebuild the pump while you have it off. The kit is about 60 bucks, and it’s easy to rebuild.
Before removing the air compressor, all the videos on you tube will have you drain the coolant. If you use pinch pliers, you can pinch off the coolant lines, and lose less than a quart of coolant. Take the air inlet line loose at the intake manifold, the access to the clamp is easier there.
There are five bolts, and one nut that hold the compressor to the motor. The heads are 15mm. The two on the backside are completely and utterly hidden. You need about 16 inches of extension with a wobble fitting on the end to get them loose. If you don’t use the wobble, you can’t get the socket on the bolt hole. I used a combo of a flashlight and a mirror to get the socket on the bolt heads.
Here is the key point, unless you are a gorilla, you cannot reach into the location and lift the pump out. It’s too heavy and you have no leverage. I used a ratchet strap setup to catch a bracket on top of the pump while routing the strap to the front side of the intake manifold. I attached the other end to the left. Vertical support
I used the strap to hold the weight of the compressor while I eased it out of the location. It’s bit tricky since the outer gear is spiral cut, and the inner gear which meshes into the hydraulic pump is straight cut. A bit of wiggling is required. The pump, not the mechanic.
Once on the bench the disassembly is straightforward and so is the rebuild with the instructions in the kit.
I had to use one dirty trick on the internal valve seats. There is a 14mm hex in the top of the seat for unscrewing it, but no reasonable force even with heat and penetrating oil would get them to budge. So I welded a 1 inch nut to the top of the valve seats. They came right out. I don’t why this trick works, but I have used it a few times on stuck bolts, and every time, very little force is required to unscrew it.
Once you have the strap trick, and the flashlight and mirror trick, reinstallation is pretty straight forward.
Oh yeah, why did I do this. The head gasket on the compressor was starting to weep a bit of coolant and oil. It was making a nasty mess. I rebuilt the seals in the fuel pump just because I had it off.
First, this is a BEAR. Tough access, and although the specs say the compressor weighs 53 lbs, I think that is low by at least a 100 lbs.
Remove the fuel pump. Have some flare plugs of the right size to keep the diesel from leaking out of the lines. You will appreciate the time it takes to do this when you don’t have to reprime the fuel system. The three bolts that hold the fuel pump on take a 8mm 12 point socket. Rebuild the pump while you have it off. The kit is about 60 bucks, and it’s easy to rebuild.
Before removing the air compressor, all the videos on you tube will have you drain the coolant. If you use pinch pliers, you can pinch off the coolant lines, and lose less than a quart of coolant. Take the air inlet line loose at the intake manifold, the access to the clamp is easier there.
There are five bolts, and one nut that hold the compressor to the motor. The heads are 15mm. The two on the backside are completely and utterly hidden. You need about 16 inches of extension with a wobble fitting on the end to get them loose. If you don’t use the wobble, you can’t get the socket on the bolt hole. I used a combo of a flashlight and a mirror to get the socket on the bolt heads.
Here is the key point, unless you are a gorilla, you cannot reach into the location and lift the pump out. It’s too heavy and you have no leverage. I used a ratchet strap setup to catch a bracket on top of the pump while routing the strap to the front side of the intake manifold. I attached the other end to the left. Vertical support
I used the strap to hold the weight of the compressor while I eased it out of the location. It’s bit tricky since the outer gear is spiral cut, and the inner gear which meshes into the hydraulic pump is straight cut. A bit of wiggling is required. The pump, not the mechanic.
Once on the bench the disassembly is straightforward and so is the rebuild with the instructions in the kit.
I had to use one dirty trick on the internal valve seats. There is a 14mm hex in the top of the seat for unscrewing it, but no reasonable force even with heat and penetrating oil would get them to budge. So I welded a 1 inch nut to the top of the valve seats. They came right out. I don’t why this trick works, but I have used it a few times on stuck bolts, and every time, very little force is required to unscrew it.
Once you have the strap trick, and the flashlight and mirror trick, reinstallation is pretty straight forward.
Oh yeah, why did I do this. The head gasket on the compressor was starting to weep a bit of coolant and oil. It was making a nasty mess. I rebuilt the seals in the fuel pump just because I had it off.
Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home
)
