[Flick]

Cables and connections were all taken care of last year so I think we are good to go there. A little more information I got yesterday was that I need to hold the start button to about the count of 6 or so. The reason is that the generator is cooled by a blower and the blower must start and get up to speed. If it doesn't then there is a safety switch that turns off the generator so it won't it won't overheat. I think that is what they said anyway. The mechanic is going to talk to me next week and explain that a bit more.

Clarke I have multiple deep cycling batteries for the house.

[Chester Stone]

It seems to me that there should be a capacitor that would start the blower fan faster than six seconds. I would look more closely to the fan motor.

[Flick]

Now this evening the generator won't start. So back to square one.

[encantotom]

i guess i view it too simplistically. it is either fuel or air.

the low batteries could have caused the run solenoid to close so it wouldnt get fuel.

the glow plugs could be a problem but not likely and are easy to check.

the fuel pump is a potential.

or could be an electrical problem to actually trigger the starting process.

tom

[HoosierDaddy]

I still think it is in the control box or wiring leading from that box to your switch...or the switch itself. I'm going by memory here...But I think when you hold the switch to the start position you are bypassing the built in murphy switches. When you release the switch it brings the murphy switches into the loop. The problem is in that circuit................................(I think ) I've been wrong before...Before I found the problem with my Kohler I rigged another on-off switch which supplied 12V to the circuit and ran it that way for a while.

[Flick]

Okay I spoke to my mechanic this morning. He said the generator needs to run long enough so that it begins registering on the voltmeter gauges. If I hold the start button down long enough and they do register it will kick in and run. He describes some sort of a bypass switch they can install that he essentially said would let the generator start right away and run for a few minutes and get up to that speed and not have this issue.

What do you guys think do you think I should spend the money to do that?

[Flick]

       

Okay now for a new issue. Check out the pic Of my gauges for the generator below. The mechanic and I are a little perplexed neither one of these gauges seem to be working. He seems to wonder if maybe it is one of the switches that controls the Link between shoreband generator. What say you all he's looking for advice?

Also can you look at the second pic and tell me What these switches do how they work so that he can understand and I can understand When the house batteries are charging and when they are not in terms of the engine running not the generator.

[Chester Stone]

Todd, perhaps I can help. As to the gauges, the one showing 100-230 is for the generator water temperature, the one 0-100 shows the generator oil pressure and the other one is an hour meter which seems to show a little over 2,000 hours. In your second photo, the merge switch is used to temporarily combine the voltage from both the engine and house batteries. The indicator knob seems to be pointing in the wrong direction and this should be resolved because you may be combining the batteries or have isolated the house batteries. The air compressor switch probably turns on the auxiliary air compressor and should be on when the engine is not running. The other one switches the source of 220 ac power between shore power and the generator. Later model Newells have an automatic switch system that handles this chore. When you are trying to run the generator, this switch should be set to aux. I am quite certain that you should not have to keep the starter engaged until the generator starts to produce power. The generator should start in a few seconds and then run for about two minutes before power is evident. I am doubtful that a bypass switch is the answer to your problem. I would first be sure that the source switch is set to auxiliary, which is the generator, then that the merge switch knob issue is resolved and if it still does not start, I would look for a defective run solonoid on the generator. Hope I have helped.

[Flick]

I need to make sure I understand what you said. So when running the generator have the eng/aux switch to aux. then make sure the merge switch is off and not in either on position. Is that correct?

Ok as for the gauges for the generator (h2o temp and oil pressure) they are stuck where you see them. So th mechanic wondered if it might be as simple as a bad connection somewhere or perhaps one of my switches is an issue that would cause them both to be stuck. Thoughts on that?

[HoosierDaddy]

Todd, Did you find the fuse holder I mentioned in an earlier post? It is not easy to find. It requires a mirror to see it on the back side of the control box wall. That fuse sends 12V to your dash switches and gauges. It appears that you are not getting the 12V feed from the generator control box. That would explain the gauges not working.
On my '78 Newell the battery condition switch determined the 12V source that the volt gauge was reading. Eng. setting showed the chassis battery condition and aux. showed the house battery condition.