Michael, if you have the opportunity could you post a picture or description of what part of the handle failed so we might watch for weakness. I think I'll order a spare.
As soon as I get the replacement, I will take the door apart and get some photos. I know the springs inside the handle mechanism broke because the handle just flopped up and down without doing anything. More to come after the new part arrives.
Thanks Michael, a while back I had the shroud off ours to have a look and I did not see anything that seemed to look subject to breaking - but I have gotten into the habit of leaving a window unlocked.
I bought a package of 50 each door lock striker bushings on amazon for $10 but only needed one. The item is PVC plastic 1/2" ID x 11/16" OD by 7/8" Long. and fits ford from 1972-on.
If anyone needs one let me know and I can mail you one or two.
Note: Tom says in earlier posting that the plastic sleeves that go over the door striker are just a few bucks and are available at autozone, checker, o'reilly etc. they have been at every autoparts store i have looked at. there are several lengths of them avail.
1988 Newell 8V92 #179
40ft Tag Axel, rear window
2005 Jeep Liberty toad
(08-09-2012, 09:04 AM)Fulltiming Wrote: As soon as I get the replacement, I will take the door apart and get some photos. I know the springs inside the handle mechanism broke because the handle just flopped up and down without doing anything. More to come after the new part arrives.
I realize this is a super old post, but I almost got stuck in #385 yesterday. Any chance you have those pictures from way back when? What was the issue? Mine seems to stick at the bottom.
Karl and Lisa G.
Coach #385
Toad - Not ready for that yet
If the door is sticking at the bottom, in other words the bottom of the door is dragging on the bottom door frame, then the issue is that the steel frame under the stainless has rusted and bubbled up, raising the stainless cover. Remove the cover and repair.
If the door is sticking at the bottom, in other words the bottom of the door is dragging on the bottom door frame, then the issue is that the steel frame under the stainless has rusted and bubbled up, raising the stainless cover. Remove the cover and repair.
Richard, it would seem my issue is the bottom of the door. The 3 screws which hold the SS plate down are loose and stripped and rubbing into the bottom of the door. There is a substantial groove in the door. I will need to remove the plate and clean up the metal and maybe move the screws to get some new threads. Most likely will also buy a set of spare door handles to eliminate being left without them in a catastrophic failure of the existing 28 year old handles.
In my picture, what is behind the area where my existing pull handle was? Is it plywood? I want to make something a little nicer then the military style pull handle that was there. I am suprised this was OEM in a Newell. I'd rather not have to take it apart to find out. Thanks!
Karl and Lisa G.
Coach #385
Toad - Not ready for that yet
I doubt that handle was OEM. It looks to me like the original handle was replaced as evidenced by the rectangular backing plate. That is not original. That skin is aluminum plate on my door not plywood.
My guess is that if you remove the rectangular plate you are going to find holes where the original handle was attached. You can then decide how to proceed.
I think the dragging door has caused the failed handle. Repeated pulls inward to shut the door could have led to the handle pulling out. I might look into riv nuts for attachment rather than sheet metal screws into the aluminum.
When you fix the bottom stainless trim piece, the door should shut like a bank vault. Thunk.
And you may be very familiar with the product, but maybe not. I painted the frame steel under the stainless with POR 15. I figured it was a moisture area and wanted to protect the steel from corroding again. Caution, don’t get that stuff on anything you don’t want it on including your hands. Impossible to remove after it cures.
(12-04-2023, 05:42 AM)Richard Wrote: I doubt that handle was OEM. It looks to me like the original handle was replaced as evidenced by the rectangular backing plate. That is not original. That skin is aluminum plate on my door not plywood.
My guess is that if you remove the rectangular plate you are going to find holes where the original handle was attached. You can then decide how to proceed.
I think the dragging door has caused the failed handle. Repeated pulls inward to shut the door could have led to the handle pulling out. I might look into riv nuts for attachment rather than sheet metal screws into the aluminum.
When you fix the bottom stainless trim piece, the door should shut like a bank vault. Thunk.
And you may be very familiar with the product, but maybe not. I painted the frame steel under the stainless with POR 15. I figured it was a moisture area and wanted to protect the steel from corroding again. Caution, don’t get that stuff on anything you don’t want it on including your hands. Impossible to remove after it cures.
I removed the small alum. plate. No holes, just double sided tape. WEIRD. The Alum. skin has a wall paper on it that has been painted to spruce it up. I am not sure what is holding on the alum skin. I WD-40 the latch mechanism and the door has been closing like a bank vault, no issues. I will look into lower section, it is on my list, just AC, steering, windshield, lights, Rad fan pump leak have been a higher priority so far. Windshield done, and its in the shop for the leaky pump and steering inspection.
Karl and Lisa G.
Coach #385
Toad - Not ready for that yet
Add me to the list of those who have had or are having issues with the exterior door handle. Went out to the coach today and noticed that my door handle was sitting at a bit of an angle. Didn't notice this during last trip, but we both noticed that the door handle seemed to require more effort than normal when opening the door.
Lots of good information on the forum so I think I have a handle (pun intended) on how to take care of the problem. I already took everything a part and confirmed that the bracket is broke. The pin is still in place but not for long. My coach is the same year as Michael Day's so I can order the part number that he posted. I found the E25Y542240419 at Ford Parts Giant for 77.00 each. However, I am wondering if anyone has used the OEM knockoffs that are out there and what your experience has been? Parts geek as one for around 26.00. I don't mind the 77.00 price point, but I don't mind saving 50.00 whenever I can.
Tony and Cindy Frazier
1992, #300
2023 Ford Broncos Badlands Toad
Columbia, SC
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