[Richard]

Jon, great questions as usual.

First the core is supported on the bottom. The fins rest on the bottom rail of the outer structure.

My leaks have been in the same place generally. Both at the inlet tank end, and both mid way between the top and bottom on the outer tubes. The last leaks were both on the outer side and the engine side. Mine were not dripping, more like a wet spot on the radiator. White paper towels would turn pink in about a week.

I have looked at tons of other RV’s. Rhonda expects me to spend 30 minutes anytime I see a FL or Spartan Chassis at an RV show. The construction of the radiator is very similar. What is different is that the frame that supports the radiator is usually suspended at each end. And that suspension typically includes a rubber isolation mount. The Newell radiator frame sits flat on the floor in the engine compartment.

Joe put me to work. I had previously tried to resolver the header tube junction. I had used a propane torch, a MAPP torch, and a #2 tip on an Oxy Acetylene torch. Basically all of them produced too much general heat for a localized repair. They all may have worked if all the original solder were heated and removed, but trying a one tube repair was beyond my skill with those tools. The melted area would simply get too big too quick. But, I had obtained a micro torch, aka jewelers torch, for the Oxy Acetylene setup. It’s a cute little thing. I played with it last night, and happy to report that it was very easy to resolver one tube at a time. Just info in case someone wants to try repairing their core.

[Tim wade]

Hi Richard, looks like I will be replacing my radiator soon on #530. I was checking to see how this new one is holding up and if you have a part number for this new model. Maybe I’ll stop over and Russ can help replace mine also. Lol. I know how much he misses her.

[RussWhite]

Tim,

I feel your pain. It's not a fun job and I did it July 2018. Five years is not enough!
I remember Richard's short radiator replacement life and thinking, please don't let that happen to me!

The CAC was replaced new at that 7/2018 date as well.
I guess the lesson here is don't go with the Texas radiator. Richard has hopefully figured a much better way.

I am so sorry this has happened to you. I do think Richard managed to change the radiator without removing the CAC.

Good luck! Having a helping hand is almost necessary. Sorry it won't be me!

Russ

[Richard]

Hi Tim,

The Thermal Solutions Ultrafuse core is performing very well. Although the fin design is different than the original, I feel the cooling is slightly better. Only time will tell about the longevity.

As far as part numbers, that ain’t the way this works. The core suppliers ONLY work with radiator shops. The shop measures the core, replaces the core, and tests it in a big water bath. So, there isn’t a part number per se.

I would call thermal solutions and ask them for the name of a radiator shop in your area. That is how I found the shop in Ocala. Are you planning on doing the removal and replacement, or will you need a truck place to do it? A radiator shop may or may not have the ability to remove the radiator. There are several posts on the DIY radiator removal .

[Tim wade]

Hi Russ, hi Richard.

I do plan on installing the new radiator when I receive it. But first it sounds like I’ll have to find one.

Russ, it is just leaking a little bit. I just checked the coolant a few days ago and I was down about 1 and a half gallons. (I’m guessing since I bought it in November.) I will be keeping a close eye on it. As we are heading out to Yellow Stone next week for a month.

The plates for the slides are getting powder coated now and should be ready in a few days. Literally right after I asked you what those blocks were for the slide came all the way in and cut a little slice in the slide seal. The hydraulic lock also started leaking at the same time. Lol. That was a fun day. Good thing I enjoy working on things. Hope all is well with you my friend.

[Richard]

The only option I know of for ordering a new radiator is to get one from Atlas in Corpus Christi. I just don’t know why they are having a longevity challenge.

Otherwise, you pull the rad, take it to a shop, and get it recored.

[rheavn]

My Atlas radiator was replaced in June of 2018 with another Atlas radiator. I did run two ground cables to it to try and avoid electrolysis as it ate up my first radiator. Second one still looks good. My first Atlas radiator lasted 6 months short of 20 years.

[Latitude 28]

Tim,
If you you decide to do the work yourself....the radiator will come out with the CAC in place.  Richard recommends building a short legged bench about 5 or 6 feet long at the same height as the radiator shelf of the coach.....I can say that is a great idea!  A couple of reasons being, one can use it to lay down on as you go in to the bowels of the engine compartment.  Next, when you slide the old one out the bench makes it real easy.  Richard came up with this txt lingo "WYIT" (While Your In There)....unwrap the exhaust down pipe to make sure its solid.

[Ole]

So I’ve been told my radiator is rusted out and can’t be recored. I have a 1996 #397. My mechanic called Newell and they quoted him $5k. I understand that they have a business to run in Miami,OK but it seems pretty high to me. I have ordered from them in the past so it’s not always that expensive. Anyway, any suggestions on here as to where I could find a reasonable replacement? Thanks

[Richard]

Talk with Larry Frederick at Atlas Radiator in Corpus Christi TX. They made the original in your coach.