[xGE_97]

Steve,
I believe the blue pot that seems to be part of the E-Lite power supply may be for voltage output level or the AC frequency. As noted on the front, its a higher frequency than normal AC wall outlet power. Therefore I wouldn't try to just adjust that. I would think the other pot which is wired to the dimmer board is the culprit. Try tapping one first when the problem occurs, especially the blue one, to see if the issue seems corrected. If not, try the other one.

Solid state electronics also suffer from localized heat issues. If that assembly is located in a tightly enclosed area, it could be an issue as components and printed circuit boards age. Does the problem show up randomly or only after its been on for a while. Does it get better or the problem goes away if the module is dangled in open air? Suspect heat issues.

I guess in a nutshell connectors not making good contact, adjustable potentiometers, and heat related issues seem to be go to areas when electronics intermittantly work.

Just think, maybe Newell owners have lower potential for alzheimers because of all the mental exercise.......now for my belly......

Regards,
Bob

[CaptainGizmo]

Hysterical, Bob...yeah..with a Newell, one has no need (nor time) for any ALZ games!!

You've got some good insight, and I need to get the courage to pull that dash off (again)...it's been off so many times, the trees gave out and I had to have the entire pad reupholstered to replace them...poor poor design. But, it's the only way to get to that module.

I kinda wished I had taken more photos, and also exactly how/where it was installed. But I'll call my buddy elect tech at Newell and I think he'll have some recollection. I want to be prepared BEFORE tearing everything out; a Pot is a piece of cake to replace, but I want the right one.

I really wonder, now, if there was JUST ONE? I specifically remember him saying that there was one to balance the 2 modules; which made me think there was a second Pot. But, maybe there's only ONE, and it acts just as a "trimmer" to balance the two modules.

As to rhyme or reason, there is NONE...the two display have a mind of their own regardless of time, voltage, etc.

Thank you again!!

[Richard]

Steve,

Some have closely snipped the Christmas trees, and strategically placed sticky back industrial Velcro.

To get it in place easily, place a couple of sticks or rods under the middle and one end, so you can guide it down as the Velcro bites.

To remove start at one end with a butter knife to initiate the Velcro peel.

[ccjohnson]

On my 1992 the lights are just "on & off". No dimmer.

[CaptainGizmo]

Steve,

Some have closely snipped the Christmas trees, and strategically placed sticky back industrial Velcro.

To get it in place easily, place a couple of sticks or rods under the middle and one end, so you can guide it down as the Velcro bites.

To remove start at one end with a butter knife to initiate the Velcro peel.

Certainly not a bad way to go, Richard! After all, the more you know about a Newell, the more you find out that half of it is held together with 3m VHB and Velcro!  I laughed at the first time I saw the fuzzy-side of Velcro being used for cushioning for the slide bearing covers! They should own stock in that company...LOL

[CaptainGizmo]

Spoke to Jim at Scott Electronic. Sharp guy. He was pretty certain their dimmer board can’t cause the flickering problem. In short, here’s why:

The board controls PWM, and the Pot that’s dangling merely controls the duration of the pulse. So, he feels there’s really no way for it to just “flicker” the voltage as I’m experiencing. He feels, in addition to Newell, that it’s a power supply…or even a bad ground; which he says is critical and should even have more than one!

So, sadly, ran into a wall again.

[xGE_97]

Steve,
So as an electrical engineer that worked when there were a lot of potwntiomers (pots) used, The pot is the weak point in any design that employs them. They are usually a carbon emulsion on some plastic base. They have problems over time. Tapping them or slightly moving them re-establishes connection. Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) controls can go out of range with bad input. The result could be zero pulse width, which could be off to some displays. However, like the engineer said, if voltage from the E-lite module is bad, it'll go off too. These are all just places to look. If it is flickering, check the voltage on AC, assuming you have a meter that reads auto ranging frequencies or an oscilloscope.
Regards,
Bob

[CaptainGizmo]

Steve,
So as an electrical engineer that worked when there were a lot of potwntiomers (pots) used, The pot is the weak point in any design that employs them. They are usually a carbon emulsion on some plastic base. They have problems over time. Tapping them or slightly moving them re-establishes connection. Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) controls can go out of range with bad input. The result could be zero pulse width, which could be off to some displays. However, like the engineer said, if voltage from the E-lite module is bad, it'll go off too. These are all just places to look. If it is flickering, check the voltage on AC, assuming you have a meter that reads auto ranging frequencies or an oscilloscope.
Regards,
Bob

Thanks for the pro tips, Bob! Sure hoping to drill down and squish this nasty bug...and with all your help, I'm betting I can!

Jim Scott said to hook that dimmer up to a battery source to test it. But, I didn't see how that would be enough since that E-line power supply is 240V output!  I think Jim was confused, and when I tried to clarify, it seemed to make things worse.

I wanna get to that unit and test/tap it, because I completely know and agree with what you are saying about Pots going bad. Being an electronics hobbyist gave me enough (bad) experiences in the audio world with those suckers causing noise.

Thanks again!!