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New driving lights
#1

I had bought my coach with dim/flicker headlights and a lack of driving lights aside from their remnants of dangling wires. Today I installed new LED driving lights and while doing so removed a badly damaged generator air scoop under the coach. I straightened that out and welded in reinforcements on the inside. (Might help if I hit a tire carcass) With all this going on, I decided to remove the headlights and ordered 4 new ones. I can attest that this was not a fun job to remove the headlight cradle due to the limited access of two bolts on each side. Either way, it wore me out and I have them removed and headed to powder coat shop tomorrow.


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--Simon
1993 8v92TA #312
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#2

Simon,

The headlights have a huge issue with low voltage. They are likely putting out half their intended output. If you want to install relays to get them up to their potential, we can look up the posts on that.

If you intend on replacing them with LED, then no bother.

Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
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#3

Nice work Simon, every time I see that pit I get a little jealous, it would be so nice to have but here where I live it would end up another swimming pool.

1999 45'  #504 "Magnolia"
Gravette, Arkansas
1996 40 XL Prevost Marathon 
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#4

Richard, I figured something was up as the volt reading was 12.06v and the batteries are at 13.0. Yes, I am going with LED's. This thing was just downright dangerous to drive at night. I had to follow tail lights to know which direction the curves were up ahead. With the new driving lights, I will be able to resume my midnight runs again. I prefer driving overnight to avoid traffic. On a side note, the original halogen lamps have a date code of January 1991! Goes to show they had an extended life due to low voltage!

Jack, I have a high volume pump built in the pit that is automatic. You could go with dual pumps with one being a backup. We get 1-3" of rain an hour when it hits and I have not had even 1" of water build with the one pump. Since you are like me and have the ability to work on your coach, I think a pit is nothing more than another tool in the box. I almost consider it a must if you have back issues. For myself, it's more of a fear factor of going under a coach even if it is properly supported since I do work on my own with no one around. It doesn't solve all access issues, but it sure helps.

--Simon
1993 8v92TA #312
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#5

That might happen when I build a shed for the old girl. I'm on my back today working under the front, I'm getting to old for this stuff.

1999 45'  #504 "Magnolia"
Gravette, Arkansas
1996 40 XL Prevost Marathon 
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#6

The issue is the long run of under gauge wire that travels both through the switch and the high/low relay. Halogen lights should be seeing about 13.5 or better at the light with the engine running and the lights on.
http://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?ti...&pid=31285

Whatever you do, please do not retrofit led bulbs into the existing housings. As a guy who worked for an optics company, I beg you not to do this. Use DOT approved lights. Retrofitting usually produces a TON of glare because of the mismatch of the emitter (bulb) and the reflector. Please don’t be THAT GUY with the super bright lights that blind the oncoming traffic.

With as clever and detailed oriented as you are, I would add the relays and put new bulbs in the existing housings. You need clean power to the headlights regardless. If aren’t happy, then find some DOT LED lamp assemblies.

Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
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#7

at least in the coaches i have had, newell used a single wire to go to the headlights to power it. i ran new relays with dedicated power to each headlight and increased the wire size. like richard has said, if you look at lumens vs voltage, a single volt drop will decrease the light significantly.

tom

2002 45'8" Newell Coach 608  Series 60 DDEC4/Allison World 6 Speed HD4000MH

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#8

I have to pick my battles with this and had I known early on when everything was torn open, I would have revamped the headlight wiring system using relays and silicone insulated wire. I specifically chose an LED headlamp that has a lower than normal Lumen output in comparison to competitive lamps and reviewed many pics of installed comparisons before purchasing. Some of the highest reviews came from super bright lamps of which I did not want. I agree that the last thing is to be constantly flashed at with motorists thinking I have my brights on. On a side note my Jeep Rubicon with its factory LED lighting package gets me more flashes than I have ever had other vehicles with. Those lights are obnoxiously bright and I don't know what to do other than avoid driving at night. Just the opposite! Road illumination is the best of any vehicle I have owned but hate that it bothers others.

--Simon
1993 8v92TA #312
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#9

I just briefly looked at the thread and agree a couple relays and a new power feed for the lights is another thing to add to my list, that being said I don't normally drive at night.

1999 45'  #504 "Magnolia"
Gravette, Arkansas
1996 40 XL Prevost Marathon 
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#10

i spent alot of time and money doing new headlights, wiring and relays etc. then i bet i have only driven at night once or twice in 12 years of having my02 i dont want to or need to drive at night.

tom

2002 45'8" Newell Coach 608  Series 60 DDEC4/Allison World 6 Speed HD4000MH

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