Right rear RHV arm is camming over. Currently it is pointing down and slightly forward.
Normal would be to the rear and parallel to the ground. I had this happen before last year.
I had the ride height adjusted DOWN last year and a few days later (all travel days) it cammed over and I had a guy come out and crawled under and make a UP adjustment. Well last week I got Leo to make that same DOWN adjustment and got the same results.
The valve is blue and looks like twin cylinders moulded together.
Where is the issue? If I get it adjusted to ride between 11.5 12.5 then it cams over and makes that side go FULL up. Makes for weird driving all off the left front.
BTW the right side RHV is black and looks not at all the same.
I think I have this solved, for the moment. I've only put 122 miles on it after the fix.
What was that fix? Simple geometry applied by Leo at A.A.A. in Mesa.
The arm that attaches to the ride height valve has 2 holes in it. He moved it to the other hole that allowed the arm to meet the vertical rod closer to a 90* angle in the drive height.
This is good information most certainly for the adjustment points, one is for the amount of sensitivity and the other is amount is ride height level. I have looked at mine and they do produce result but one side is less sensitive than the other. The roads are cambered to drain water to the passenger side and sometimes that side causes a lean that I feel while driving. No tires are being harmed but it could be a little more sensitive on that side but that being said you don't want it to sensitive and damage the tires. ??
I could set the ride height just right but as soon as that side of the axel would drop the valve actuator arm would get stuck pointing to the ground. I would have to manually remove air (via the HWH) until Enough slack existed for me to push the arm back past center. But the next dip or turn would start the process all over.
The RHV on the left side is black and shaped nothing like the right blue color valve.
Is that normal? I would think not.
My next repair is tag bags. The 4 drive axle bags look ok as compared to the tag bags.
Off the subject of ride height control all my airbags have been replaced recently, I had one tag axle airbag that had a leak which I picked up with my leak detector, rather than replace it I was informed that green slime sealant would fix it and it stopped the leak! I've been told that tag action airbags have a tendency to leak but on the bottom not the top, everything worked perfect then when I returned to our home 1000 miles away the other side started leaking from the bottom so I put the green slime in the bag and it quit leaking. I'm assuming that the tag axle gets more movement in the up and down direction then the drive axle which causes some type of tear on the bottom.
Its not a tear, the bottom of the bag seals against the bottom plate with something akin to a tire bead. When the coach is raised up to its max height the swing of the suspension puts the top and bottom plates of the bag out of parallel alignment. That misalignment causes the bead to slip on the bottom plate and voila you have a leak.
Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home )
Jack, I think you'll also find that Goodyear and/or Brand X bags will to that on your tag bags, but the Firestone will not. Richard can correct me if I'm wrong on this. I believe the Firestone has a slightly different design. Downside is the Firestone bags have been harder to get in the past.
Brad Aden
2003 Newell #653 Quad Slide Cat C-12 engine
Towing 2020 Grand Cherokee Summit
St. Louis, MO
Thanks Brad, my bags are not old and that green slime is doing the job so far. The first air bag I put it into I ended up looking like Shrek the ogre but this last one I did at home, I used an old halon fire extinguisher bottle that I filled with the green slime then pressurized the bottle with air, turned it upside down and opened the valve connected to the air bag and it filled the air bag in less than a minute. No mess.
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