Good post Brad! Your willingness to share the “learnings” that you are going through is really what the gurus is all about. When I first started, Richard had to show me which end of the screwdriver to hold.
I believe the relay he is talking about is in the panel below the passenger floor board. There is a legend on the back of the cover. One relay provided power to 6 or 7 fused circuits and was triggered by the ignition /ACC switch.
About using the voltmeter…
Newer voltmeters keep getting more and more fancy. In Brad’s case, the voltmeter automatically changes scales. That means you have to look at the number….AND THE UNITS on the display. Brad’s meter was reading 36. We know there is not a source of 36 volts on the coach. He took another look and found the units. It said 36 mV. (Milli volts = 1/1000 of a volt).
After I wrote the paragraph above…I realized that he was reading the voltage through a bad relay. The relay was probably “on” but the contacts were not fully engaging. That would account for getting “some” voltage but not the 12-14 volts he was expecting.
Because there lots of stray voltages running around on the coach, it is more likely than not to read a few millivolts even when you would think it should read zero. Again, the new meters are pretty sensitive and read a tiny voltage where older / analog meters would not.
It occurs to me that a “Stupid Volt-Ohm-Meter tips and tricks” would be an interesting topic at a future rally.
I just started an extended sabbatical and am having HWH issues. (Currently in El Mirage, AZ, heading to Palm Springs shortly). My problem is similar to the one described above. My travel light is on, but when i press Air button, or any other button, no red lights come on. I also think I have one incorrect manual.
Question about manuals I have
1. I know I have an 18x14 box.
2. I have the HWH Air Leveling Systems Text Book. I think this manual is correct.
3. On the 5th page of this book it says I have a SERIES 680 unit because I have an 18x14 box.
4. **I have a HWH Repair manual for a 600 SERIES. Which is apparently why some of the diagrams don't match what my control board(s) look like.
5. I've used the trouble shooting guide in this repair manual a few times, and it was helpful, but I think I see now why some of the diagrams don't make sense. I need one for the Series 680, if it exists. For instance, in Part 3 it tells me to check the "Battery Fuse". I don't know where the battery fuse is located on my Series 680.
Questions:
1. Is there a Repair Manual for the 680 Series? I'm having trouble finding it.
2. How do I check, at the control box, if I have power? I don't see this battery fuse I am supposed to check.
3. I found 3 fuses that seem to be HWH related in front of passenger seat. All good, and all showing 12-13v
4. COINCIDENCE? Same day my hwh control panel quit working, the nut holding my parking brake in place came loose. I thought maybe a wire broke on the back of the brake controller, but the two wires look ok. I put an ohm meter on this and it indicated low resistance, so I assume this is not a problem...??? But I'm always suspicious about coincidences.
5. If I find I have power at the control box, I'll try to continue with the trouble shooting for the 600 Series.
6. Any other recommendations besides continuing with trouble shooting checklist after I find out if I have power?
On a related note... I can manually active travel mode for driving. I had a problem with a burned wire/connector inside the control box a couple years ago for Travel mode. So I actually wired a relay and button on my dash to manually activate travel mode. When I want to level, I just release the button for travel, then use the control panel as usual.
(12-27-2022, 10:02 AM)AlanJohnson Wrote: Thanks in advance.
Alan Johnson
Hi Alan,
I'm probably not the best person to advise you on anything very deep, but I can help you check the following.
Check to see if you have power coming to your HWH board. Look on the back of the panel cover and you should see a diagram. You need to check to see if you have 12V at the three wires on the Power Harness. They should be labeled as Battery, Ignition, Accessory. You'll need to put the key in the on position when you do this. If you do have power to all three of those check to see i you have 12V going to the 7.5 amp fuse which for Travel mode. If you do not have power to the board such as was my case then you need to go to the passenger floorboard fuse panel an see if you have power to the fuses for HWH. There should be at least two fuses for HWH, but with you having HWH slides there could be more, someone else can chime in on that.
You should also test your fuses by using your multimeter.
That's about as far as I can get you, but I'm sure someone else will chime in.
Brad Aden
2003 Newell #653 Quad Slide Cat C-12 engine
Towing 2020 Grand Cherokee Summit
St. Louis, MO
Open the silver box, at the bottom and in the center are the three power fuses coming into the board. There are actually five fuses in that row, but the three you are looking for are 15 amp, IIRC.
This is a long shot, but those fuses in my rig had oxidation, and were not making good contact, which made the computer a bit crazy. It’s worth pulling them out and reinserting just for grins.
Hmmmmmm, the HWH control box requires a ground is made on the parking brake to go into travel mode.
Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home )
Mine doesn't have the diagram on the panel cover unfortunately. But I did test all 3 15a fuses, and they were good, plus i'm showing 12+ volts coming into all three. When I replaced the fuses I could hear various relaying clicking inside the control box... but still nothing when I push buttons on control panel.
The only other thing I know I would like to check is to see if I am getting a ground from the parking brake. But I have no idea where that wire is located on my control board.
I'm attaching a photo of my control box if it tells anything.
Look for a single (maybe blue) wire snaking out of the upper left ceiling in that bay and spliced to a white wire labeled 9000 ? Let me verify that number.
The other end of that wire should go to a pressure switch in the driver footwell. The pressure switch is activated by the Parking brake pressure.
Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home )
(This post was last modified: 12-28-2022, 04:39 AM by Richard.)
I can see 3 blue wires coming in (along with a lot of other wires), but nothing that I can identify as from the parking brake. I do see those blue wires under my dash connecting to the brake.
I've attached a photo from my Text Book. The wiring information for the 18x14 box is poor in this diagram. (The one above for a 9x14 has a lot more information, but is not mine.) Do you know of something with more detail for the 18x14?
I included 2 photos that show 3 blue wires coming in and attaching to what I'm calling the "mother board". I suspect one of these is for the brake, but i don't know which one.
See if either one of these help. The schematic is what is pasted inside the cover on my silver box. The trouble shoot process is in the second one. For what it's worth, when I finally got HWH on the line, the tech, Randy Fox, walked me through every step of that procedure even though I had been through it several times. When we got to the end with no results, he authorized me to send it in. I just saying they have a process, and they don't deviate.
The schematic is very helpful. I haven't seen anything like this, and there is nothing on my inside of my silver box... but I may laminate this and put it there.
I have a few questions about when you sent yours in for repair, if you don't mind.
1. If you look at the photo above of my box, does your look like this with many dozens of wires that appear as though they would need to be labeled and cut to get the box out? Is that what you did? (Or perhaps mine was removed before, I don't know). I am surprised to have to cut so many wires instead of just unplugging some harnesses.
2. When you sent it in, I assume slides didn't work?? I think I could still drive mine just by jumpering the gray Travel wires. I'm at beginning of full timing for maybe 6 or more months. But I would not want to do without slides.
I'll play around with mine some more tomorrow when it gets light and see if I make any headway.
)
