[superbirds]

Hi I have a question for any of the older body type Classic Guru's - my 1975 coach has had constant water leaks around the windows - I always thought it was the what I call the "Go Fast" windows due to the exposed surface and slant of the front and back of the window frame. Recently I started a project on changing all of these windows - on my coach there are 4 larger side windows. I'm replacing with 4 square double pane units from a reseller of Country Coach parts. While working on one of them to get the final fit today, I noticed water where I didn't expect it on the top of the windows. I had this window taped pretty well and don't think the water was getting past that. Ok sorry for the back story, here's the question.

The upper trim / kind of a gutter looks to have butyl tape behind it and is riveted at the seam where the roof and body meets the side body panel. This butyl looks bad and is missing in a number of places - could this be my water leak problem? I could put butyl tape back on it after sealing the seal with something - eternal bound tape, or could I just eliminate it and get some strips of aluminum cut and glue it on with auto body adhesive? Any and all thoughts are appreciated.

Thanks in advance

Side note - Marcia and I moved from Michigan to Sand Springs Oklahoma "to be near out grand kids" - fantastic move!!        

[Richard]

Blue paper shop towels. They turn color the instant water hits them. Keeping in mind that water does not run uphill, I use them in suspected places to find ingress.

[superbirds]

That's a great idea for testing - Thanks Richard I've never used that technique. It should help for confirmation once I get things sealed up.
Not being much of a body man it's become pretty obvious I'm out of my wheel house on this one. I did look for any related posts on this site and didn't find anything related to the older classics. The good old internet and Google did provide something I should have known about but didn't. Automotive Seam Sealer - found this at Eastwood. Sounds promising - Eastwood Brush on Seam Sealer Quart. I also found some EternaBond DoubleStick from Amazon. Maybe a combination will work out.  We may also have an automotive paint supplier nearby that will have something.
I'm also going to remove the trim that holds the fiberglass front roof section to the front window upper sill. That one my be ever harder - I'm not sure how it's held on. Should be interesting. By the way saw pictures of your coach at Tom's - wow looks great !! Love the portable Starlink dish also. Too cool.

[HoosierDaddy]

I would not eliminate the gutter. Is it loose in your pics? My first thought would be to remove the gutter, straighten any kinks out and reinstall with the butyl body tape.

[Guy]

Even though it sure looks like you have found  the culprit in your pictures, don't eliminate the running light above. We had a similar problem, and the rubber gasket on the running light was worn out. If no gasket is available, butyl tape will do.  Good luck

[Richard]

If you go to the auto paint supply store, you will find seam sealer in caulking tubes. Much easier to apply that way than with a brush. I have used it to fill some gaps when welding in new bay floors. Good stuff. I am not sure about it’s UV resistance.

3M 4000 UV is wicked good too. https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/pr...etail/2005. Just be aware that once that cures, it takes a nuclear reaction to remove it. I would not use it around marker lights or anything I might have to remove in the future.

In your pics, it looks like there was a trim piece or something else riveted to the coach along that seam. Am I looking at that correctly? Did you remove something to expose that? Or was it long gone, and the rivet holes left open? Just trying to understand what I am looking at.

[superbirds]

Thanks guys all good stuff.
The pictures you see are after I removed most of the rivets holding on the gutter / trim. I'll try to get some better ones while I work on it today.

Dean I think the butyl tape was what was put on from the factory since there were a few factory type rivets still in some spots. I think I will use something like it when I get it cleaned and sealed. Like you said I'll be doing a lot of straightening on it before installing. I have the butyl tape for my window project, I hope to find something that will be more UV resistant. The butyl has really stiffened up and become weak where the rivets go through it. Of course most of this stuff was put on in 1975 so the stuff appears to have worked. Since I don't think I'll ever have to use these seams I love Richards nuclear resistant seam sealer option. Putting on the existing gutter / trim is the least expensive option. Even though it will take some work. Probably the best - thanks

Richard thanks for the link, this stuff looks great for these side seals. I'll probably get a few tubes to do some tests. It will all be hidden behind the gutter trim and the seams are pretty small. I also have a bunch of panels I welded for rust repair in the lower cabinets. And the hidden storage under the entry steps that has some seams that this should help with. This seam sealer may become my favorite thing for a while.

Ok Guy now I'm questioning how good I sealed the lights on the roof. I'm pretty sure I have gaskets on all of them but now I won't stop worrying about them until I've rechecked and re-sealed all of them. Oh well more fun for me.

We've been here in Oklahoma for a year now. When we lived in Michigan I could move my coach onto the driveway to work on it for 4 day's then had to more it to the back yard again. Here my coach sits on the double drive to the pole barn / shop - of course the barn is too low to put the coach inside, but having a big building heated and cooled for all my tools and equipment is awesome. Plus I don't have some guy driving by the house to see if the Newell is still in the drive after 4 days. I'm still working full time this year, in a little over a month I'll be going to a part time schedule.

This water issue has been driving me crazy - having a plan going forward helps. I'm still not going to hold my breath but hopefully this will get me closer to a water tight coach. OK maybe not completely, but a guy can dream.

Thanks for all your advise, I really appreciate your taking the time to reply.

John

[encantotom]

john, with the work you are doing, you will for sure find the water leaks. most of us have had leaks no matter what year (well for us with older coaches anyway).

nice work

tom

[HoosierDaddy]

I forgot to mention… When u need rivets or tools I have had good service from Byler Rivet Supply

Www.bylerrivet.com

[superbirds]

Thanks Tom - I agree, my goal is water tight, however I suspect I'll be quite happy with almost water tight.

Dean I remember you bringing them up before. Any recommendations on which size or type to use. On my coach looking like the factory rivets would be a nice to have but totally not necessary. I was thinking of a sealed blind rivet. I'll have to dig out my cleco fasteners to get everything lined up and my guide tape in place. I have to wait a bit to get the seam sealer Richard sent me a link for "that was the best price" - thanks. I also have to get a bunch of drill bits, looks like this project will be fun that way.

My plan thus far is to get the old trim/gutter off and pounded out to straighten it to remove the rivet divet's, then clean all the old stuff off. I'll have things in place for the guild tape on both sides to get ready for the seam sealer, I'd like to preserve the existing holes so hopefully I can leave in the fasteners while putting on the sealer. Then remove and clean them before it sets up. Should be interesting - that part. Then for behind the gutter/trim maybe eternal bond tape or butyl tape. I'd prefer not to use the butyl but it may be the best choice, we'll see. Once I decide I'll need to order a bunch more of either.

Where do you suggest getting a power riveted? I think that will be a mush have. Are the Harbor Freight ones ok?

Thanks again, appreciate your input.