[dbld58]

No, some places like Lowe’s sell an air pressure regulator, labeled as pressure regulator, that is not actually a pressure regulator. It is an adjustable valve. Meaning that when flow is occurring, a restriction in the valve will actually lower the pressure, but in a static situation with no flow, the pressure will equalize. Sorry for soap boxing, but every time I see that device, I think about the problems it is going to cause for the buyer unless they truly understand what it is.

The technical challenge when using a restriction valve as a regulator is that the pressure drop will depend upon the incoming water pressure AND the flow rate. Impossible to set correctly in the “flushing potty” scenario.

It “sounds” like you have such a device, a restricting valve. A true pressure regulator will not migrate like that unless the regulator is bad. However, if you do have a true regulator, you can get sediment in the inner workings which will jam the regulator open and cause what you are observing.

Can you post a pic of the regulator that you installed?

If this is the case, and you install a regulator, it will be tempting to use the smallest one possible to hide inside the potty. Make sure that the regulator is rated to handle the flow rate that you want. If it’s too big to install in the potty, then place it after the shutoff valve for the potty in the water bay. Plenty of room to hide it there.

Here is the one that I could see migrating to equalize with the water system pressure instead of maintaining its lower setting:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B085...UTF8&psc=1

Here is what I installed yesterday:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B09BDFFC5R?p...ct_details

Both both, the toilet works perfectly right after I turn the water back on, but not after several hours pass by.

What really has me baffled is how this toilet worked in the first place, and how does the rear toilet work without having the same problem.  I am thinking I'll never know the answer, I just want it all to work so I can move on...

If anyone knows of a REAL water pressure regulator, could you please share? I am putting on a pressure gauge this afternoon to confirm my suspicion regarding the one I installed yesterday.

[Richard]

https://www.amazon.com/RVGUARD-Pressure-...5437404462

You need something with an adjustment knob and an internal diaphragm. The one you used will not work for what you are trying to do.

I can understand why you might think the first one you listed would migrate because it is adjustable. But the adjustment ring locks when you have it where you want it.

[dbld58]

https://www.amazon.com/RVGUARD-Pressure-...5437404462

You need something with an adjustment knob and an internal diaphragm. The one you used will not work for what you are trying to do.

I can understand why you might think the first one you listed would migrate because it is adjustable. But the adjustment ring locks when you have it where you want it.

I set the first one to 20 psi to start.  It would stay there for the first few flushes, but overnight it went to 55 psi which is where the main system's pressure was at the time.

I'll give the one you listed a try though.

[Richard]

The one I listed and the first one you listed are one and the same. It doesn’t make sense that the first one would migrate overnight unless you have debris in the lines. I apologize that I misinterpreted “I could see”. On second read it is clear what you meant.

I am just as puzzled as you since the first regulator should not have drifted.

Just out of curiosity, did it return to 20 psi when you would flush the toilet. That is after creeping to 55 overnight?

I can think of one bizarre scenario, and it would be easy to check for. The bizarre scenario is that the air pressure from the flush handle is leaking, leaking into the sequence valve, and providing back pressure to the water overnight. You could deadhead the pressure regulator with a cap and test to see if it is truly migrating or the pressure is coming from the air system.

A pressure regulator only works in one direction. If the pressure downstream on the regulator increases for whatever reason, the regulator will not decrease the pressure to the setpoint.

[dbld58]

Each time I have a problem I need to push the spindle up inside the body. Often I need a hammer. The part with the fat o-ring keeps getting stuck in the head and won't raise with the air pressure. I don't see how air leakage could cause that. There's no air in the top section, just water. The spindle needs to raise to let the water through and this is not happening.

FYI - I have that second in-line regulator installed with a gauge on it and it is holding steady at about 28 psi for the last several hours.

This thing is kicking my butt in several ways. Now it won't start even though I am plugged into 50 amp...is there an emoji for head exploding?

[Richard]

Ok, your latest description is helpful. I went back and reread the entire post.

You started with rebuilding the sequencing valve.
Now the sequencing valve is jamming on an oring.

Is it possible that something went awry in the rebuild? Wrong O ring maybe?

When you said you had to use a hammer to move the internal piston that got my attention.


Sorry about the no start. We have ALL been there especially with a new to you machine of immense complexity. Hopefully the guru gang can talk you off the ledge.

Call if you want to chat 8172232056. Leave a message, I rarely answer unknown numbers. I don’t need any car warranties, and my house doesn’t need windows.

[dbld58]

I am certain the rebuilds have been correct.  Mullany & Associates even rebuilt it and tested it.  They are aware of my problems and when they received the sequencer the spindle had passed through the head as if I assembled it wrong, but I hadn't.  Anna Maria and John have been very helpful and incredibly patient throughout this saga.  I call them now and say "hey...it's me..."     Kinda funny, but not really.

I took a look at the original spindle and noticed a distinct difference, besides the length, just under the top thick O-ring.  If you look at the image you'll see a larger plastic collar under the O-ring.  The shorter spindle is what is provided in the rebuild kit which also changes the top seal and top cap.  I had other issues with the rebuild kit, but I'll write something on that later.  
   
I went ahead and modified the original spindle by cutting the top so it is the same length as the replacement.  I am hoping the thick plastic collar keeps it from getting stuck in the top piece/head.  I'll install tomorrow and report the result.
   
As seen in the final image, the pressure has remained steady with the simpler water regulator.
   

[Richard]

Well……..this is very interesting.

I don’t know if my comments are relevant, many of my previous ones were not.

One, if the simple regulator is working now, when deadheaded like that, then why did it increase over night when in line with the potty waterline. Just out of cause and effect curiosity, if you deadhead the water line going to the potty with a gauge, does the pressure in the line increase over night?

Second comment. Many years ago, I had potty wars, so I decided to rebuild the sequencing valves in my coach. I had the old style, with the top cap that allows you to see the piston, and uses the piston with the longer top section. I COULD NOT get those bodies and spindles to perform reliably with new o rings from the rebuild kit. I do not know why. I rebuilt them several times with no luck. Lots of lube, very little lube, o rings from Mulanney, o rings from McMaster, all with no joy. The final straw was a midnight flood produced when a guest did not know to wait and watch to see if the potty functioned correctly. Mine would jam in the refill sequence for the bowl.

So I ended up buying two new style sequence valves, the grey bodied ones with the solid top. I was frustrated like you, but not willing to take the risk on another flood. I hated to give up like that given the price of a new valve. I never figured out why the old ones would not work with a rebuild kit.

[dbld58]

I hear you Richard.  

This is my last shot before biting that bullet. 

I have the old body and new body. Old cap and new cap - the new cap won’t tighten on the original bracket while old cap with the hole does…this goes for both bodies.

I plan on writing something on the whole experience for future reference to those who follow in my problems. I’ve had a variety, but they are all related.

---

I hear you Richard.  

This is my last shot before biting that bullet. 

I have the old body and new body. Old cap and new cap - the new cap won’t tighten on the original bracket while old cap with the hole does…this goes for both bodies.

I plan on writing something on the whole experience for future reference to those who follow in my problems. I’ve had a variety, but they are all related.