[folivier]

I think those Dometic inverter AC's have been for sale in Australia for a few years now. Which is great if so since that would give them a few years of development before being for sale here.
A thought, could you use the AC ductwork to run some of your wiring? With the basement units there is a large ductwork in the basement. I remember Steve Magown removed his basement units to install roof airs. Perhaps he'll give some input?

[Richard]

Simon has the Dometic split units, so no internal ducting.

IF I had that setup and were committed to converting to modern day technology, I would seriously explore the mini split world. Essentially the Dometic units in those coaches was a mini split of the day with external compressor and condenser, and internal air handler and evaporator. The point is the space and electrical is already there. The trick will be finding something in the modern era mini split world that will fit in those spaces with minimal modification. You could also use the existing line set runs. They should be good for the higher pressures of r409 or r410. I wouldn’t try to use the existing evap though. In my opinion retrofitting into the existing space would be more better aesthetically than trying to find two locations for a wall mount cassette.

The roof top conversion wouldn’t be terribly difficult, however the challenge would be adding Newell appropriate ceiling design to duct and hide the overhead. In the coaches of Simon’s era, he would lose 5 inches or so of headroom to have it look appropriate. Given the care and detail that went into his magazine shoot worthy remodel, I doubt a standard rooftop panel in the ceiling is going to make the cut.

[folivier]

Oops, forgot about his being the Dometics. In my '93 I thought about going to a mini split when the Dometics went kaput. This was about 10-12 years ago and mini splits were just becoming popular. If the compressor would fit where the D units were then you're right the tubing and wiring is already there. The only place I could think to mount the evaporator was the upper valence where the D dumped the cold air out. Remove a section of valence and mount the evaporator there.
What about it Simon? Like Tom says: we love spending someone else's money!

[Jack Houpe]

This is what I thinking in the future, right now our brand new (2009) heat pumps are working but the condenser fins are plugged up with dirt. This inverter heat pump uses a remote mount for ducted units. I would try and use the same ducks that are used for the old system but mount the new evaporator closer to the rear and the other in the front.

https://senville.com/24000-btu-concealed...adEALw_wcB

[BusNit]

Oops, forgot about his being the Dometics. In my '93 I thought about going to a mini split when the Dometics went kaput. This was about 10-12 years ago and mini splits were just becoming popular. If the compressor would fit where the D units were then you're right the tubing and wiring is already there. The only place I could think to mount the evaporator was the upper valence where the D dumped the cold air out. Remove a section of valence and mount the evaporator there.
What about it Simon?  Like Tom says: we love spending someone else's money!


if the evaporator can fit inside a cabinet and be out of sight, I’m all for it!


I’ve been spending way too much time looking at solar kits but have gotten nowhere to figuring out what would work best. 24v, 48v? Seems the inverters consume alot of power. Last week the concrete stain which is more of a concrete paint that my painter said was the best next to epoxy has been chipping away. Spent the last three days with a power washer removing it. (Coach parking area) I’ve got a freaking mess of paint chips all over the yard. Painter has been reluctant to do anything other than put more of that crap over the peeled areas. Anyone know of a decent outdoor epoxy that won’t yellow? See? I have too many irons in the fire. Worn out. Sorry for the rant. Goes to show you’re better off doing things yourself.

[encantotom]

if you dont want it to fade in the sun you need a polyspartic coating, not epoxy. i have polyspartic in my shop and it extends out 9 inches or so in front of the main doors and it has been in full sun for 6 years with no uv fading whatsoever.

tom

[BusNit]

He used Evershield concrete paint. At first he said he was going to use concrete stain. Thought we would be good. The stuff he used was nothing more than floor paint. I noticed no etching primer was used as recommended. When I looked at online reviews, the ever shield had poor reviews with most complaining about peeling and flaking paint.

I know I call it Epoxy, but I group all coatings that are nearly impervious to wear epoxies. I finished up removing 97% of the paint. Really worn out. Where did you get your Polyspartic coating from? There is a commercial Sherwin Williams supplier near me. I may head over there tomorrow and have a chat with them. When I did the Pit, it was $800 for Military spec outdoor grade epoxy. (might be something else, but I just group the name the same!) I hope not to spend another 2-3k on the pad. The 9" that sticks out, is it still glossy or is there a chalkiness about it?

Thanks Tom

[SouthernDevGirl]

Simon, I'm working on some links to help you with the battery project. Give me a bit. I'm also a bit behind on my free-time projects after creating all of those mock-ups for Andrew, lol.

Tom, I agree with you 110%, there is no comparison between polyaspartic vs epoxy when used in UV. Just one note: make sure you're using a high (should be 100%) aliphatic poly. And don't confuse polyurea, which many people do (polyurea is great if you need a 15 second flash time, lol).

I've never found it locally in South Florida. Of course I don't know much about distributors for that sort of thing. I've always ordered online; in one instance I ordered from China and it was perfectly fine.

Simon, when you refer to the "concrete stain" (marketing terminology only, as you observed, not a "stain" but merely a semi-opaque) that should never have been used where there is any sort of foot/vehicle traffic. I would avoid that contractor like the plague in the future. Even epoxy, despite the UV issues, would be exponentially more reliable, providing it was adhered properly (versus that concrete "stain").

[BusNit]

Don't worry, Absolutely no rush! I appreciate the help and certainly at your leisure. I am so frustrated with things going on in my life. That contractor is actually a friend of mine and as he gets older, the laziness shines out clearer and clearer. I wasn't home yesterday afternoon, but he was to stop by with his pressure washer to help me remove all the paint. My arlo camera caught him talking to my Father in law who lives with us. He was getting on his new to him Harley and left after seeing the progress I made. So much for helping fix his screw up. Today I went to the commercial Sherwin Williams store and they told me there is no Polyaspartic coatings to be had anywhere. There has been a shortage on the stuff. So here I have my coach at Leo's while trying to accomplish this task at home (Three days of power washing and paint stripper work) and I can't even get the material to finish this. Painter used Heavy Sheild concrete stain which is a paint product and not an actual stain. Sherwin Williams had plenty of that crap in stock which is why he probably bought it. I also have to clean up a gigantic mess of flaked paint all around the area of the driveway. Just sick of it all.

[encantotom]

here are pictures of my floor.   the small section that is outside my 2 garage doors has zero fade, and feels and looks just like the rest of the floor.   if it looks any different in the picture it is from dust being on it.  

i used a fellow who does commercial jobs and he was amazing.   a friend of mine who restores corvettes has a large shop and he used him as well.  

he used a floor grinder with a lot of weights on it with a large roll along hepafilter and diamondground the floor.   almost no dust residue with the system he used.   then he patched any cracks and imperfections.   

the first 3 pictures are in the last day or two.  the rest are from 2016 when i had the floor done.  

i do work on lots of things.   a number of folks here have had their newell in the empty bay.   i used lots of rubber mats to protect the floor.  

darlene and i did the mix of chips to give to him.   the mancave has a slightly different mix than the rest of the shop.  

we hosted a luncheon on saturday and had the bus outside and the place set up with tables and chairs for 70.   usually the floor is clean enough to be barefoot on.

later

tom