[BusNit]

I removed the overhead interior switchboard over driver seat and took some measurements. This is the generator switch. From ground to the green wire I have power as seen in pic although a little lower than what the battery voltage is (11.5). (12.2v at battery)

The two other terminals do not get power when switch is pressed to start.

I removed wires from switch and checked for continuity. Switch does close contacts at both start and stop.

As I look at this, should the green powered wire be in the center position?

Edit: I tried to swap the green live wire to center of switch but it causes the starter on the generator to skip a beat.

[Richard]

Looking at your pic of how the relay is wired, what is the voltage on term 85 when the switch is depressed.

[BusNit]

It is terminal 30 that has the constant power. It's a large gauge wire. Looks like a 12

[bestgenman]

Simon, you have stated  early that power to the relay was 86 and now you are saying power is on 30.  ?? 
30 closes to 87 when the relay coil is energized and the coil terms are 85 & 86 so, I’m guessing you are experiencing some confusion!
This solenoid requires a pretty healthy amount of current, hence the relay.  Terminals 85 or 86 will be connected to negative and the other comes from the engine control. So in other words, let’s say 85 is negative then 86 will have +12 when the control tells the engine to run.

The start / stop switch is a ground to start, ground to stop circuit.  it is likely not your problem (unless the switch is worn out).   The ground (negative) should be on the center  switch terminal.  There can be as many of those as wanted, they are parallel to each other.  One or a hundred.  When the start signal wire is grounded the engine starts.  It is only operated momentarily.   The same applies to the stop wire.

I suspect your control box is located adjacent to the set and is likely in a 8 X 10 X 6 JIC junction box.  It is full of relays.  Martin can rebuild it, I believe.  Your problem could be a simple as an intermittent switch.  If the problem exists at all stations then, it is control box or a loose connection.

[BusNit]

Yes, I incorrectly looked at the labeling on the top side of the relay at first. 30 is the constant power according to the link Richard provided. Coils never receive power to close contacts. I will need to drill out the ram rod pin as it is locked in place and support generator with jack to pull it out further. I quit yesterday and left it for another time. I have other issues more pressing. One of them being a decent air loss that I cannot find from top or bottom. Leo will swap out tag bags next week. Frustrating as there are many issues to address. Either way, Thanks guys.

[Richard]

Before you drill………hit the clevis with a torch. The idea is to heat the clevis and not the pin. It may expand the hole enough to move the pin. And sometimes a couple of heat and cool cycles will break loose a stuck pin or bolt.

I don’t know how your control system is wired, but now that you have established the relay is not getting a signal to close, here is something quick and easy to check.

Let’s say for purposes of trouble shooting, that the system is sending a “make to ground” signal instead of a “positive” signal. How could you test for that? Hang the ohm meter on terminal 85 and a good ground. If the ohms go to zero when you depress the switch then you have a make to ground signal.

If that is the case, then remove the ground from terminal 86, and jumper from 30 to 86. When the ground makes on 85, the coil will close.

This may be a long shot, but that relay in your pic is something someone added. They did that for a reason, we just don’t know what it was. But I suspect you are trying to solve what someone else tried to solve before you. We just don’t know what they did.

[BusNit]

I got around to playing with the generator all while the onset of Covid #4 despite being vax'ed 4x. Anyway, in my quest for air leak salvation, I decided to do the old tug test. I found this wire loom going into the generator control box was loose. I unscrewed the captive collar, pulled it apart and found the contacts must have been sprayed with some kind of lubricant. Either way, I felt the connections may be a little sloppy. I put it back together and whaddya know, the generator now starts from inside the coach. I did 5 start/stop cycles in a two day period. I figure if I shove the generator back in, the wire might falsify its contact again leading to a never ending frustration. What's a good solution for this? I can't really reach back there without removing the rusted pin holding the Ram to the slide. (I've exhausted being nice to this pin and if removal is needed, a sharp bit will make short work of it.)

On another note, While I am in there, I will replace the little airbags. The air control valve was also leaking so I have a new replacement. (It's not fully installed yet) What setting do I put it on as far as air pressure for the generator air bags? Old gauge is so darkened I cannot read it.

[folivier]

Depending on whether the wire connections are pins or spade connectors you might be able to spread the pins to open them up a bit, or tighten the spade connectors with a pair of pliers. Adding a little bit of dielectric grease might help also to prevent corrosion.

[Richard]

Air bags pressure, high enough to float the generator on the mounts, low enough so the turbo doesnt hit the ceiling of the compartment

[BusNit]

I manage to pull the generator out today after extracting the ram pin. The control box is out. If you all remember my issue was the generator not always starting from the interior switches. It would crank but not start. I replaced the solenoid but found it would not pull itself in when cranking. My only recourse was to get the generator out and manually hold the fuel solenoid while using the start switch at the genset. Today I removed the control box and the interior is all sooty. Not sure where or what it is other than is smells like burnt electronics. Should I send this to Martin and have them go over it or should I just swap out all the relays and cross my fingers? The two circular harness connectors were loose too. I don't know how reliable those can be. Both ends did have some form of grease in them so corrosion is not an issue as the contacts appeared clean. And finally the exhaust pipe was unsupported at the rear air bag mounting bracket. I also do not see any packing that's supposed to be in there?