[Richard]

Don't know.

[bestgenman]

Brad,  I can only speak to the installations I have seen so my comment is not gospel!  The four screws are holding the pipe extending aft and removing them requires crawling into the generator box.  But, you know all that already.  Since you are going to have to go into the box, just fix it while there!  

@360,  Removing the generator is not terribly difficult but you will need a pallet jack and cribbing on a concrete floor.  Disconnect all umbilicals, unbolt the ram, run the jack up enough to relieve pressure and slide the set out.  

The leak needs fixed for obvious reasons, carbon monoxide, smoke, plus the intake of the set suffers as well.

One more thing,  if the exhaust is coming out of the joint, there must be back pressure.  Some exhaust will usually come out but if there is restriction, more leakage occurs.  This is caused from carbon build up and the fix is running at full load to raise the exhaust temperature thereby reducing the buildup. We’re talking about the pipe going horizontally and then vertically.  Put on as much load as possible for an hour or so!

[Richard]

An alternate approach for removing the generator is a hydraulic lift table from harbor fright. I use mine a lot. I had to put some wooden blocks between the table and the carriage but it worked like a charm.

[360]

Thanks Gordon and Richard. I'm torn between pulling it out and fixing it myself or begging Newell to work me in sometime in the next two weeks. I like the idea of the lift table as I also still need to swap out those A/C motors that my mechanic was unable to get to and figured a table like that would double for that job.

[Richard]

Yep, I have used the table for removing the AC's, replacing the brake rotors and drums, and replacing the radiator. I even know a fellow @"Latitude 28" who used two to make a slide removal cart.

[360]

Sounds like a nice tool to have. I got the green light to be able to use a stall in a friends Barndo so I'm leaning towards just doing it myself. Would have been a tougher project in my current storage spot as it's only 50' and I can just see myself 12 hours in not completed and with no easy way to button things up for the night. Might also do that A/C repair while I'm at it if I have time while I'm there.

[360]

Well this is one of those fixes that once you figure out exactly how to do it you really wonder why you struggled so long at it.  Here's what I needed to do.

Detach ram and pull generator our supported on a hydraulic lift table.  I opted to leave the fiberglass front door on and just work around it with some block on my lift cart.  When pulling out the gen it will get hung up on the horizontal roller and you'll need to lift it up over that roller and then come back down.  I left just the last few inches of the generator on the slides.

Take a piece of 2" exhaust and make yourself a tool like below there you cut some notches in the pipe and bend it to make a cone shape.  You don't really need to go as aggressive as I did on the cone shape in hindsight.  One other thing I would change is I made my tool about 6" long and in hindsight I would do 12"-18" as you'll have an easier time inserting it. 

You need some 5/16 packing material made by Palmetto and it is Model No. 1030AF.  Somewhere like Grainger has it, but it must be this exact model number as it needs to be flexible enough along with tough enough to be hammered flat.

https://www.grainger.com/product/PALMETT...al-5-4RTW4 

Cut a piece of the packing seal that is a couple inches longer than the circumference of the 2" exhaust.  Take a 4lb hammer or something similar and work that gasket material until it's flat.  It will be roughly 1/8-1/4 thick when it's right.  You'll have to whack it pretty good.  The picture below is for effect only, that material being pounded out is Palmetto #5000 and it is NOT the model number you want as it's not flexible enough.  But it did make for good practice as I was figuring this out  .  Trim the ends square as the will frey when you're flattening.

Remove the exhaust pipe from the generator at the top elbow along with the air cleaner.

Insert one thin and even better if small person into the compartment by just sliding past the generator on the drivers side where you just removed the exhaust from.  This is a two person job from here on unless you're super tiny and can slide right past the gen as there is fine tuning you're goign to need to do with that hammer and fine tuning on length of it.  

Clean out the flared end of the 2 1/4" exhaust that is fixed to the coach and attempt to insert that packing seal.  Once you see about how much you need to trim off you can trim it down, but leave it maybe 1/4" to a 1/2" longer than you think as you're going to be expanding it out against that pipe and you don't want to be short.  Once you get it trimmed and fit it there by hand spray a little high temp anti-seize on that cone shaped tool and insert it in there.  This is where it's a little tricky.  You want it tight enough that your cone tool can expand the seal but yet still let you insert the cone tool all the way past the cone.  Too lose and we're defeating the purpose.  Too tight and when you attempt to hammer on that cone tool you'll just drive the entire gasket inside the pipe. Once you get it squeezed in there let it sit for about an hour as that gives the material time to hold that shape.

 Remove the cone.  Spray exhaust with high temp anti-seize and insert all but about 2' so you can slide past it on your way out but not so far you can't grab it.  

Slide generator back in and attach the ram.  Reach and and grab he exhaust and reattach.

Seems so simple now and really it is with right tools, a thin helper and about 3 hours.

[encantotom]

well done.

tom

[BusNit]

Thank you Brad! What table did you use to pull the genny out? I need to pull mine for some checkups.

[MrE]

1/2 ton - https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-ca...60438.html
1/4 ton - https://www.harborfreight.com/500-lb-cap...61405.html