[pairodice]

Richard: I did move the pressure relief valve (the little knob on the side of the pump) - I closed it and set it at 3 turns open
Russ/Forest: I have three KLIEN meters (I keep losing them and buying them and then finding them again!) - will check if it will do clamp DC voltage…
I would think I would get DC voltage on the wires going into the solenoids but could not get anything yesterday.

[Richard]

Can you post a pic of what you adjusted?

What i was asking about is the screw or toggle in the center of the solenoid can be backed out or toggled to release the hydraulic pressure in that circuit. If that is done, but not undone, the room will not move because the pressure will not build.

[RussWhite]

"will check if it will do clamp DC voltage"

I'm going to pick at your terminology a little bit in an effort to help you understand and to correct post for future readers...

When a meter is used in the "clamp on" configuration - that is, you open the jaws and place them around a wire ( conductor ) you will be measuring current, not voltage. That is true whether the clamp on is around a wire carrying AC current or DC current ( Alternating or Direct ). The major difference here is that in the past there were very few reasonably priced clamp on meters that could accurately measure DC current ( the current you would be wanting to measure to check a DC solenoid ). Hall effect sensors ( that were needed to do that ) were expensive and most clamp on meters in the bottom of tool boxes were good only for AC. Thankfully that has changed, and as I posted a reasonably priced clamp on is now not only accurate for DC but affordable for almost anyone.
Just for a rough approximation, the amount of DC current varies in proportion to the size of the solenoid If you measure in the ballpark of 4 amps on those slide solenoids I think you can assume they are getting proper voltage and move on from there. Russ

[Richard]

Let’s start from the beginning. It is highly likely that something you touched when starting this process is the culprit. It is IMPERATIVE that you answer the questions, all the questions, to get to the root cause if any of us is to help you.

I went back and read carefully the original post. Here is what you said.

I extended the slide room fully and then retracted it about 1/2 way so I could get to the limit switch to make the slide room under-extend. I removed the limit switch and attempted to retract the room. Nothing, nada... I can hear the pump running so I checked the fuses 85,86,87,90 as suggested in the Rosetta Stone of HWH diagrams. The fuses were good (tested with an ohm meter). I checked at the solenoids to make sure I was getting 12-volts to them - the unlock wire is energized when the retract or extend button is pushed (and the locks themselves are open/retracted). The extend and retract wires are not getting anything...
So I decided to jump the unlock wire to the retract solenoid just to check it but still nothing - a test light confirmed that there was 12-volts through the wire to the solenoid...

So, if you can please fill in the missing info.

When you removed the slide limit switch, did you disconnect the wiring, or just remove it from it’s bracket?

Did you remove BOTH limit switches?

How did you get the slide from the partially extended state that you mention above to the fully in state?

We can go further when we know these answers.

[Richard]

And you might want to reread this post, it has links to an HWH document that tells you how to read the LED lights on the control boards to figure out what is going on.

http://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=4880

[pairodice]

Thanks guys!
Richard: I did not remove the both limit switches - I removed the driver side limit switch itself and disconnected the wiring with the plastic plugs. I did not disconnect or remove the passenger side switch. I have since replaced the driver side limit switch so that the little ‘button’ clicks when I screwed the switch down and have reconnected the wire plugs together.
I do remember moving the solenoid T-handle on one of the solenoids but not sure which one - will check them in the morning.
I am really not sure HOW we were able to get the slide back in since it was so long ago…
Russ: that makes sense about current vs voltage - will read up on it in the morning and test the current.

[pairodice]

Richard: This is the Rosetta Stone you sent me at some point earlier so I am posting it here for future reference of others.
Future Self: this diagram is good for the vintage HWH slide systems - ours is a two-slide system so your mileage may vary.

[pairodice]

Morning update:
- checked the solenoid T-handles all for being all the way in and tight (not crazy tight, just tight) - the extend solenoid T-handle was about a quarter turn out
- reconnected the solenoid wiring as per the labeling that I had added to the coach side wiring previously - maybe it’s wrong - I will check the solenoid diagram again…
- Started engine and fast idle (battery merge switch OFF - middle position)
- turned slide room 2 key ON
- waited until the suction pump stopped running
- pushed the RETRACT button for about 10 seconds (figured the most it would do is move a little and not add holes to the slide roof: I heard the slide pins latch DOWN (they were UP before - verified by camera earlier) - verified that they were indeed DOWN and latched via camera
- tried to extend slide room 2
  - the slide pins DID go UP (unlatched) - verified via camera
  - slide room did not move
What was odd is that the alternator squealed when I would push the EXTEND/RETRACT button - probably need to tighten it up a little but it stopped after I let up on the buttons so at least I know the charging circuit is working…

[pairodice]

Pictures showing the wiring in the HWH bay for the rear slide and the rear slide diagram - These all look correct.
Wife is on the way and will test the wiring for voltage/current (figured out how to check current on my meter this morning!).

[Richard]

I suspect that the “pressure relief valve” that you closed and opened three turns as stated in thread 21 is still closed too much. That is not a pressure relief valve. It is a flow control valve that is intended to control the speed the room moves in and out. Just for grins, open it until the number 5 shows on the side of the valve.

The alternator squealing when you hit the switch is an indicator the hydraulic motor may, and I emphasize this is a theory, be trying to pump against a dead head. My first guess is a closed flow control valve. My second guess is miswired retract and extend solenoids.

If opening the valve doesn’t fix the issue, then unhook the two connectors for the extend and retract solenoids, and with help confirm which is which by checking for voltage when extend and retract is activated. You might look first at the wiring harness that connects to the solenoids. On mine Newell put small white tabs on the coach side of the harness identifying what the wires were for. Hard to see, and sometimes nasty, but if they are there would be a great confirmation.

Third exercise. When the extend button is activated what LEDS are lighted on the Room 2 control board? Use the numbers on the Rosetta Stone diagram to identify them. You will be looking for LEDs 85 through 90.

The fact that the locking pins are coming up is great news.

Thank you for the detailed summary of what is going on.