[Richard]

Adrian, sorry but a couple more questions to round out the big picture and eliminate some potential causes.

Front salon works?

When you turn the key for the bedroom, does the seal deflate and vacuum pump activate?
Does the yellow light come on?

[pairodice]

Yes, the front salon slide works fine.
When I turn the slide key ON the deflate pump comes on and the light comes on about 30 seconds later - I will confirm this in the morning.
When I replaced the limit switch this morning I placed it on the bracket so that it was depressed and made a click noise before tightening it - I think that should be correct.
I’ll try it again tomorrow morning - I’m just looking for the slide room to start moving and that is all for now, you made me paranoid about punching a hole in the roof lol

[Richard]

Ok, good info.

You said before that you don’t hear the pump come on.

So, take the diagram of the of the solenoids and ensure all are wired correctly. While you are in that bay, disconnect the down pin or pin lock solenoid for the rear. That will avoid roof modification until you get this sorted out.

If the solenoids are wired correctly, then a deeper dive is required. You will need to dig out the HWH drawing of the internals in the silver control box. Using that diagram find the fuses for the rear. Keep in mind some of them are BEHIND the first layer of control boards. You can access by removing the tiny screws at the corner of the board. Check all the fuses.

Here is a painless and quick way to check blade style fuses. Set your voltmeter to ohms and to beep on continuity. Touch the probes together and check for a beep. Now look carefully at a blade fuse and you will see two metal tabs on the top. One probe on each tab and listen for the beep. You can check fuses really fast doing this without having to remove them.

[pairodice]

Thanks for the advice on the fuses! I never thought of leaving them IN to test them! :-) I had previously removed EVERY fuse from the silver HWH control panel, cleaned them and put a little dielectric grease on them… took forever … I will check this out this afternoon as I have meeting after meeting today :-( I hate when work gets in the way of diagnosis :-)

[Richard]

If that doesn’t produce any positive results, can you help me help you.

My hands are tied because I am not aware of every thing you may have touched during the slide seal repair.

Can you take the time to recall the things you have tried, and list them for us to see if there is some possible involvement with the inactive slide response?

And, after you underextended the slide into the coach, how did you get it back out and flush with the coach exterior?

[pairodice]

I was never able to underextend the slide. The only other thing I messed with were the wires up front - that is where I was going to check next. I am not sure if the wires are connected correctly but I believe I used a diagram to match them up to the correct wiring in the HWH bay. That wiring may be part of the issue but will verify today if I get a chance. I am interested in documenting the workflow for the slide room mechanism i.e., the order that the solenoids fire based on user input. I’m not sure what causes the locks to latch down (or up).

[pairodice]

Tested today:
- Fuses F1 through F7 all tested good with continuity tester
- disconnected the Room 2 EXTEND solenoid wiring (based on Newell sticker)
- disconnected the Room 2 RETRACT solenoid wiring (based on Newell sticker)
- turned Room 2 key ON
- auxiliary suction pump for Room 2 came ON
- yellow light came ON after about 30 seconds
- auxiliary suction pump for Room 2 turned OFF automatically
Tested by pushing in Room 2 Slide button to EXTEND
- Hydraulic pump in HWH control bay came ON until button was let go - ran for about 10 seconds but nothing moved in the room
I also tried checking for voltage at the connector that leads to the Room 2 solenoids for the EXTEND (and retract) but could not get any voltage - I tried my trusty bulb tester and also the digital volt meter to no avail - never got out of mAmps range… I tested by having my wife push the EXTEND button for a second while I had the tester on the wires… maybe these are low-voltage wires???
As a side note:  based on testing the front Room 1 slide it seems that lock pins activate when the key is turned on/off at the EXTEND/RETRACT button - does that sound correct?  Was going completely off the ‘sound’ of the slide pins moving from outside so it could have been something else…

[Richard]

OK,

A few things. The room is not going to move at all with the solenoids disconnected. I know you were trying to check voltage. If your voltmeter was reading mAmps as you stated above, you had it on current not voltage. Perhaps that was a typo.

It will be tomorrow before I can look at the HWH diagram to see if F! Through F7 covers the rear slide operation, me thinks there are more fuses.

The key on off does NOT operate the slide pins on my coach. It takes hydraulic pressure to move them. You probably heard the noise the seal makes when it starts to deflate.

Did you, by chance, turn the pressure relief feature on the solenoids at any time during the entire adventure with the rear slide?

[RussWhite]

I am almost always alone when troubleshooting. Yes, I read all about the folks that have someone activate a function and then they monitor the solenoid by placing a screwdriver near the coil. My method is to use a clamp-on amp-meter capable to reading and storing DC current values. I simply clip it around either wire, turn it to the record position and go inside and push the button. Come back out and review the max, min, and avg currents recorded. Only the max is of interest of course. I will link below to a suitable meter for this purpose. I think it's a small investment for a coach as expensive and complicated as ours are.

https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-CL320...BDD5Z&th=1

and if that doesn't work, just search Klein Tools CL320 Digital Clamp Meter in Amazon. Russ

[folivier]

Great price on a Klein meter. Klein is more expensive than other cheaper brands but the responsiveness, speed, and accuracy is well worth the price.