[pairodice]

I need to under-extend the slide (thanks Tom for the article links) to do some work around the seal.  The slide room worked perfectly this morning in both directions.  I extended the slide room fully and then retracted it about 1/2 way so I could get to the limit switch to make the slide room under-extend.  I removed the limit switch and attempted to retract the room.  Nothing, nada...  I can hear the pump running so I checked the fuses 85,86,87,90 as suggested in the Rosetta Stone of HWH diagrams.  The fuses were good (tested with an ohm meter).  I checked at the solenoids to make sure I was getting 12-volts to them - the unlock wire is energized when the retract or extend button is pushed (and the locks themselves are open/retracted).  The extend and retract wires are not getting anything... 
So I decided to jump the unlock wire to the retract solenoid just to check it but still nothing - a test light confirmed that there was 12-volts through the wire to the solenoid... 
Any ideas?  
BTW, does anyone have the diagram showing which solenoid does what?  I can’t find it in the search... I think mine may be backwards now :-(  
Thanks! Adrian

[pairodice]

I did find the diagram for the solenoids in my manuals (of all places!) and I believe them to be hooked up correctly as they were before. Now I’m wondering if I can jump any 12-volt source to the solenoids to see if they are working correctly.

[Richard]

Did you move the limit switch out of the way, or disconnect it?

Are the slide pins down? If they are, and the room is halfway, then they have punched a hole in the roof.

Stop messing around with the solenoids, and go back to what you touched, the limit switch.

[pairodice]

I moved the limit switch out of the way but left it connected. I thought maybe it was part of the ground so I reattached it and tried to retract again to no avail. The slide pins are up/retracted - the slide room is all the way in so no holes :-)
I did end up trying to reattach the limit switch as I said but it didn’t change anything. Should I have disconnected it instead?

[Richard]

You said the room is all the way in. Based on your first post, it sounded as if it were halfway.

Will it move outward?

If you are trying to move inward, look at the same area where you found the switch, you will find an adjustment bolt with locking nut. The adjustment bolt is a hard stop for the room coming in.

[Richard]

The switch on the driver side of the coach is to tell the HWH system the room is IN. The plunger on the switch should be depressed by the L shaped bracket. That switch is connected to the two blue wires going into the coach.

The switch on the passenger side of the coach tells the system the room is out. It is connected to the two green wires going to the system. If the switch has a third black wire, it is not connected to anything.

   
   
   
   

[pairodice]

Thanks for the advice and pictures Richard! You are always SO helpful! Sorry if I confused you - the slide is (and has been) closed/in. Should i try replacing the driver side switch with the passenger side switch? Should there be 12-volt power when the switch is pushed in? I will check the switches when my wife arrives to help this morning.

[Richard]

NO, don’t move anything else.

First, take a small screwdriver and see if the switch clicks when you press on the button. If it doesn’t click, then loosen the holding screws and readjust till it clicks.

Second, confirm the switch is wired to the two blue wires.

Third, unwire the switch and check for continuity using your voltmeter set on ohms.

Fourth confirm wiring in HWH bay with diagram I sent you when this first started.

Fifth, post some pictures of what you have.

Sixth, did you unwire the switch to move it to allow the room to come in further?

Seventh, did you adjust the screw bolt that mechanically prevents the room from coming in too far?

---

You ordered the right switch, it can be wired normally open or normally closed. Make sure if you replace it, you get that right, or you will ventilate the roof.

[pairodice]

Hi Richard,
Please see my comments inline (after ASA below - and again, THANK YOU for all your help and support on this!
First, take a small screwdriver and see if the switch clicks when you press on the button. If it doesn’t click, then loosen the holding screws and readjust till it clicks.  ASA: switch did not click when pressing the slide extend/retract button.  I tried adjusting tighter but it never clicked - should I have gone looser?

Second, confirm the switch is wired to the two blue wires.  ASA: I only see one blue wire…

Third, unwire the switch and check for continuity using your voltmeter set on ohms.  ASA: old switch did have continuity when the switch was pressed - so maybe I didn’t need a new switch (but I have a backup now :-) )

Fourth confirm wiring in HWH bay with diagram I sent you when this first started. ASA: still checking - will edit/update when confirmed

Fifth, post some pictures of what you have. ASA: posted
I think I mis-labeled the photo showing the slide mechanism - that is showing the retract (not extend) limit switch connected.  The (??? Not sure what type of connector this is) connector that is disconnected is for the extend(?) limit switch (driver side)…
Please confirm I’m testing the correct switch - maybe I’m looking at the wrong one - I have been messing with the one on the driver side nearest the outside of the coach :-(
I added a 4th picture with what I think is the correct labeling … sorry for the confusing pictures but the forum will not allow me to delete pictures…

Sixth, did you unwire the switch to move it to allow the room to come in further?  No, just unplugged

Seventh, did you adjust the screw bolt that mechanically prevents the room from coming in too far?  I never found it…

Eighth: You ordered the right switch, it can be wired normally open or normally closed. Make sure if you replace it, you get that right, or you will ventilate the roof.  ASA: I pulled the old switch apart to make sure I got the wiring correct - see picture of new switch compared to old (with plastic shroud removed) - have not tried extend/retract function yet… still working - will edit/update when confirmed

Limit Switch wiring (see picture):
Common: Yellow
Norm Open: Blue
Norm Closed: Red

[Richard]

Thank you for the pics! Although one year apart, your setup is completely different than mine. The concepts are the same, but the physical arrangement of the limit switches is quite different.

I think you have the switches correctly identified. On the retract limit switch, the wire colors change at the connector to blue and black. I am thinking that is correct.

On the retract limit switch, the exercise is to take a small screwdriver, insert it between the button on the limit switch and the bracket the button presses against. You are checking to see if the switch is physically adjusted so that the switch button is pressed inward to close the contacts. If it is physically activated, then check the terminals in the connector plug to ensure continuity between the two. That will tell you if the switch is defective. If it isn’t activated, loosed the screws that hold the switch to it’s bracket, and slide the switch until it clicks.