08-11-2012, 08:36 PM
Changed out the broken door handle today. As I mentioned in another post, I tried to open the door and the handle just pulled straight up and flopped back down again. I was locked out of the coach with no unlocked windows. I used my Dremel to cut the rear (left side looking at the door) curved piece off of the handle, then used a pair of needle nose pliers to pull down on the piece I had cut loose inside the door and the door opened. I ordered a new door handle (from a Lincoln Continental or Town Car 1982-1987 front passenger door).
Once you again have assess to the inside of the coach here is the procedure to replace the lock (photos will hopefully help). The first photo is the inside of my door.
Using a Phillips head screwdriver (easier with an cordless drill with a screwdriver bit) remove the screws that are in the wooden areas all the way around the trim piece and the two screws next to inside handle. Then remove the inside trim and set it aside. You can now see all the linkages that make the door handles function.
You can see the long rod that connects the outside handle to the lock mechanism. When you have access to the inside of the door, you see that foam insulation is EVERYWHERE including covering the outside handle. Chip and pull away the insulation to gain clear access to the outside handle.
If you don't get enough of the insulation off, it will make it much more difficult to get the old handle out and the new handle in. The handle is (or used to be) attached to the rod with a bolt and nut. Use a 7/16 ignition wrench if you have one, otherwise an open end 7/16 wrench will do but the thinner ignition wrenches make it much easier. After you remove the rod from the handle (I could have do it last since it had broken off the handle anyway), you will find 2 nuts down at the bottom of the opening that hold the handle on.
You will need the same 7/16 wrench to remove the two nuts. You will then have to push from the inside and carefully pry the handle loose from the outside since it has a grey sealant around the edge to keep water out.
Pull the old handle out and install the new handle in reverse order. I used silicone sealant on the new handle because that was what I had available.
Now, the question of why did it break and what broke. My door swells badly and I have pulled on that handle hard for years trying to get the door open. I suspect that helped fatigue the metal. As to what broke: the metal brackets sheared on both sides. In the photo I have circled the break where the bracket was drilled for the bolt that held the handle to the bracket.
The other side the bracket sheared at the point where the flange starts.
When either side shears, the handle will not operate the latch mechanism. Would lubrication have helped. It doesn't look like it but it would not have hurt either.
Once you again have assess to the inside of the coach here is the procedure to replace the lock (photos will hopefully help). The first photo is the inside of my door.
Using a Phillips head screwdriver (easier with an cordless drill with a screwdriver bit) remove the screws that are in the wooden areas all the way around the trim piece and the two screws next to inside handle. Then remove the inside trim and set it aside. You can now see all the linkages that make the door handles function.
You can see the long rod that connects the outside handle to the lock mechanism. When you have access to the inside of the door, you see that foam insulation is EVERYWHERE including covering the outside handle. Chip and pull away the insulation to gain clear access to the outside handle.
If you don't get enough of the insulation off, it will make it much more difficult to get the old handle out and the new handle in. The handle is (or used to be) attached to the rod with a bolt and nut. Use a 7/16 ignition wrench if you have one, otherwise an open end 7/16 wrench will do but the thinner ignition wrenches make it much easier. After you remove the rod from the handle (I could have do it last since it had broken off the handle anyway), you will find 2 nuts down at the bottom of the opening that hold the handle on.
You will need the same 7/16 wrench to remove the two nuts. You will then have to push from the inside and carefully pry the handle loose from the outside since it has a grey sealant around the edge to keep water out.
Pull the old handle out and install the new handle in reverse order. I used silicone sealant on the new handle because that was what I had available.
Now, the question of why did it break and what broke. My door swells badly and I have pulled on that handle hard for years trying to get the door open. I suspect that helped fatigue the metal. As to what broke: the metal brackets sheared on both sides. In the photo I have circled the break where the bracket was drilled for the bolt that held the handle to the bracket.
The other side the bracket sheared at the point where the flange starts.
When either side shears, the handle will not operate the latch mechanism. Would lubrication have helped. It doesn't look like it but it would not have hurt either.
