10-29-2020, 04:16 PM
Had the coach running at high idle the engine spit sputtered and stalled, fortunately at home! Tried to start engine again with no luck. BTW no check engine light came on during this event. Suspected fuel related issue as the filter was almost full....changed filters found a little water perhaps a table spoon's worth. Tried cranking again with no luck, fiddle around checking breakers and connections finding nothing to speak of (Breakers had not tripped) i.e. no white ring exposed. Tried to start again and managed to get it running for a few minutes then it stalled again. Put a fuel pressure gauge on the pump finding zero pressure during the crank phase.
Pulled fuel pump to check "Star" coupling from the compressor to fuel pump drive....that was good to go. Left it off in case I am going to replace the pump.
Next in line was the fuel return check valve on bell housing end of the engine head. If this is stuck open fuel pressure will not build up. No way to even see this area much less get to it....EXCEPT Newell engineers removed the DD Check valve from the head and put on the return line near the tank.....easy peezy. Took the check valve to Detroit Service Center in Ocala to pick up a new one. Spoke with the tech in the shop as to possible causes of my problem. He gave a list of things that it could be in the order of expense the least to most expensive. He checked the valve stating that it was good. So next would be the SRS sensor of which there are three different P/Ns so back home to remove it and get the correct part number. By now you can probably tell I am ready to through parts at it to get it fixed. Can you say how glad I am the coach is at home!!
Put everything back together to verify "Crank no Start no Check Engine Light". Tried to start several times with no luck....same condition. One more time I checked the DEEC circuit breakers...this is one of the culprits the Detroit technician mentioned. This time I physically put my fingers on each breaker and pulled....one of them had a gritty sound as it moved to the tripped position with hardly any effort. The other was rock solid and could not be pulled. I reset the pulled breaker and tried to pull it back out it would not pull back out....Ahha! Needless to say I have two breakers coming and will change them out!
Cranked the engine for perhaps 10 sec and it fired right up!! I had left the fuel pressure gauge connected to the high side of the fuel pump which showed 15 to 20 lbs of pressure. I think I am going to leave it installed as it is real handy TS tool.
I shudder to think, if on the side of the road, things would have been a lot different not to mention the cost to get going again. The one breaker evidently was tripped internally and due to the girt the white band stayed hidden. I think, as a preemptive, these breakers would need changing due to the "gotcha factor" involved if they are any where near the originals.
Pulled fuel pump to check "Star" coupling from the compressor to fuel pump drive....that was good to go. Left it off in case I am going to replace the pump.
Next in line was the fuel return check valve on bell housing end of the engine head. If this is stuck open fuel pressure will not build up. No way to even see this area much less get to it....EXCEPT Newell engineers removed the DD Check valve from the head and put on the return line near the tank.....easy peezy. Took the check valve to Detroit Service Center in Ocala to pick up a new one. Spoke with the tech in the shop as to possible causes of my problem. He gave a list of things that it could be in the order of expense the least to most expensive. He checked the valve stating that it was good. So next would be the SRS sensor of which there are three different P/Ns so back home to remove it and get the correct part number. By now you can probably tell I am ready to through parts at it to get it fixed. Can you say how glad I am the coach is at home!!
Put everything back together to verify "Crank no Start no Check Engine Light". Tried to start several times with no luck....same condition. One more time I checked the DEEC circuit breakers...this is one of the culprits the Detroit technician mentioned. This time I physically put my fingers on each breaker and pulled....one of them had a gritty sound as it moved to the tripped position with hardly any effort. The other was rock solid and could not be pulled. I reset the pulled breaker and tried to pull it back out it would not pull back out....Ahha! Needless to say I have two breakers coming and will change them out!
Cranked the engine for perhaps 10 sec and it fired right up!! I had left the fuel pressure gauge connected to the high side of the fuel pump which showed 15 to 20 lbs of pressure. I think I am going to leave it installed as it is real handy TS tool.
I shudder to think, if on the side of the road, things would have been a lot different not to mention the cost to get going again. The one breaker evidently was tripped internally and due to the girt the white band stayed hidden. I think, as a preemptive, these breakers would need changing due to the "gotcha factor" involved if they are any where near the originals.
Steve & Doris Denton
45' Newell #525, Bath & Half....sold
37' Country Coach, Tribute....Cat C9, 400 hp
2014 Honda CRV Toad
Summerfield, FL
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