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110V Air Compressor Solenoid Valve
#1

I have read through all of the posts about the pressure bleed off valve on the water separator. On 643 it's different, the valve is attached on the bottom of a 3 port tee manifold next to the water separator and the pressure switch is mounted on top of that manifold. I don't see a check valve anywhere. Can anyone with a coach around 2003 that has that setup send me a picture. Mine looks like someone modified it so I want make sure it is connected correctly.

Ron & Jennifer Ward
2003 Newell Show Coach #643 (Racer Bus) Triple Slide, DD 60
Visalia, CA

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#2

Can you post a pic of what you have?

Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
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#3

I'm not sure how to attach a picture on this forum but I think I figured out why the compressor stopped working. This coach came with two of the electric solenoids, one on the bottom of the separator/dryer and one between the tank and the manifold. There are two sets of wires coming from the contactor, one is hooked to the solenoid on the bottom of the manifold under the pressure switch and the other set is cut off and hanging there. Since it's no longer draining and it doesn't release air pressure it's causing head pressure which is why the pump hums but won't start up. If I crack the air line right at the pump and leave it hand tight it bleads off air between the pump and check valve and the pump works like it's supposed to. 

I found the check valve someone put in which is a small brass cylinder between hose clamps and fuel hose. (yes hose clamps and fuel hose on an air line?!?!) It looks like the auto drain quit working on the separator/dryer that they installed to replace the factory one. 

Morgan at Newell is sending me a new Separator/dryer, the correct check valve and the solenoid that goes on the bottom of the separator/ dryer so I can put it back to the way it was originally designed.

Regards,

Ron & Jennifer Ward
2003 Newell Show Coach #643 (Racer Bus) Triple Slide, DD 60
Visalia, CA

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#4

Glad you got it figured out, and glad you posted the outcome.

Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
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#5

Well I thought I was done but now I'm in need of some help with the wiring connections, specifically the 2 wires on the solenoid attached to the bottom of the water separator, the 2 wires on the solenoid attached to the block below the pressure switch and the 2 wires coming from the pressure switch. Everything connects to the contactor in the grey box or to each other. The original setup on mine was altered and they cut off the wires when they removed the solenoids. I'm trying to put it back the way it was. I have all new parts I just need help with the wiring. Anyone having the 2 solenoid setup the wiring should be the same as what I have... Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Ron & Jennifer Ward
2003 Newell Show Coach #643 (Racer Bus) Triple Slide, DD 60
Visalia, CA

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#6

PLEASE post a picture of your setup. And then we can tell you how to wire it. I do not want to use my interpretation of how it is piped to develop a wiring diagram.

Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
Reply
#7

Ok... Can you give a quick tutorial on how to post a picture to this forum?

Ron & Jennifer Ward
2003 Newell Show Coach #643 (Racer Bus) Triple Slide, DD 60
Visalia, CA

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#8

Yes.

Take picture with your phone, or Ipad, or camera (and load it to your laptop)

Press the black new reply button.
At the bottom of the reply page, you will see Add an attachment.
Add the picture file.

After it is loaded, the screen will give the option to Insert into post. Do that.

Press Preview post to see the results of your handiwork.

Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
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#9

   

Got it...

FYI: The new separator and solenoid have not been installed yet.

Ron & Jennifer Ward
2003 Newell Show Coach #643 (Racer Bus) Triple Slide, DD 60
Visalia, CA

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#10

Ok, you may find me to be a frustrating old cuss. I deserve it, but rather than tell you which wire goes where, I feel it is far better if you understand what you are doing. Let's start with this quick sketch of how the air system connected to your 120V pump could be plumbed.

   

Let's walk through how it supposed to work. The four way manifold that connects the storage tank, the grey covered well pump switch, other supply lines to coach (yellow), and eventually the 120V pump is key. 

In the diagram, looking left of the manifold, you will see a one way check valve, or possibly a three way valve. 

When the pump is running air will flow through the check valve or three way into the manifold. Pressure in the system will be read by the well pump switch on top of the manifold. When the cutoff pressure is reached, the power to the pump will be interuppted by the well pump switch. The check valve will prohibit air from flowing backwards and pressurizing the pump. Or, if you have a three way valve it will change positions, blocking the flow of air back to the pump, and releasing air pressure from the pump to the three way. 

There must be some mechanism between the 120V pump and manifold to 1. release pressure on the pump so that the next time it starts, it is not starting against high pressure, 2. prevent the pressure in the system from escaping due to mechanism number 1.

That being understood. The first wiring to understand is the wiring for the well pump switch and the 120v Pump. Simply put the pump runs off the standard two wire 120V setup that a house lamp does. On one side of the two wire cord, the well pump switch is placed in line with ONE of the wires that supply the pump. When the pump switch goes below 70, the contacts in the switch will close, making the circuit, and the pump comes on. When the pressure reaches 90, the contacts open and the pump turns off.  If you find that the previous electrician has wired both sets of wires through the well pump switch, let us know and I will modify the text below. Both methods work.

Ok, now what to do about the wiring of the 3 way valves. You have to go back to the diagram and understanding of how the system is supposed to work. You want one or both of the three way valves to CLOSE when powered up. If the three way is at the bottom of the separator it should close when powered. If you have a three way in line before the manifold, it should close when powered so that the air flow is from the pump to the manifold and not to the atmosphere. 

That being said, one or both solenoids will be powered any time the pump is running. So one lead of the solenoid goes to common, and the other lead is connected to the pump side of the well pump switch. That way when the switch closes, the solenoid will have power.

You do NOT need two three way valves. You need a check valve and the solenoid on the bottom of the air water separator. You can use two three way valves if you do not want to use a check valve.

I assume that you will follow electrical safety precautions by opening breakers, and confirming no voltage with a voltmeter before beginning. 

In my opinion, you have some clean up work to do where hose and clamps were used where DOT compliant hose and fittings should have been used. 

I hope this helps.

Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
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