[pairodice]

I ordered the new parts to replace what Tom had so graciously loaned me and found them at a place here in Phoenix called Motion Industries. Of course they will just be having them drop-shipped from the manufacturer, Zero-Max from their warehouse to us here in PHX...
The part numbers were the same for both Motion Industries and Gulf Controls (where Richard purchased his):
Motion Industries - 602-269-2331 Phoenix, AZ
Gulf Controls - Tampa: 813-676-3146
Part numbers:
600-07 seal rear Gulf: Manufacturer: Zero-Max
600-06 gasket load ada Manufacturer:
L680003 - seal front (shaft seal) Manufacturer:

[pairodice]

STILL leaking! Anyone have the part number for OHLA? I think either the shaft or the OHLA is causing the new seals to leak :-(
It looks like the seal is the culprit and Leo agrees but maybe the Neanderthals (I like that word) messed up the shaft or the OHLA when they ripped out the old seal... I am so tired of leaks...

[encantotom]

check your email

tom

[Richard]

Mine leaked too after the rebuild.

I took the unit back out, and I saw a scored area on the output shaft that perfectly aligned with the seal lip. I don't know how I missed that on the first go round. The score was too deep to polish out, but the bore where the seal resides had enough extra length that I was able to install a new seal and seat it 1/8 deeper than flush which placed the seal lips on good clean shaft areas.

Having done this multiple times now, here is THE DRILL for getting the unit out with the least fuss and muss.
1. Detach the drain line to the hydraulic tank and drain into a two or more gallon container. Then detach the hyd line from the motor to the OHLA.
2. Loosen the two bolts that hold the hyd motor to the OHLA
3. Remove the four bolts that hold the OHLA to the stand.
4. Carefully move the assembly back and angle it to give access to the front of the fan.
5. Remove the fan bolt, and leave the fan in the radiator shroud.
6. Use rope or strap to secure the Hyd motor to keep it from falling.
7. Remove the two bolts, and separate the OHLA from the Hyd motor.
8. Grunt loudly and lift it out of there.

Reverse steps for reinstallation.

There are other ways of doing it, but this sequence avoids having to reach through the fan and fan shroud to deal with the bolt securing the fan to the shaft.

[pairodice]

Leaks seem to be solved! Leo is awesome! New seal in the OHLA and no leaks at all; no oil, hydraulic or antifreeze maybe only air

[Chester Stone]

I can attest that Leo is the best and is very fair with his charges.

[pairodice]

Richard, I missed your post in the midst of the fray yesterday but what you are saying is EXACTLY what happened to us also. When we looked at the shaft there was a definite score about an 1/8” below the top of the shaft. We ended up using a press and pushed it in a little more until it cleared the score. Problem solved!

[Richard]

Hopefully, someone in the future can profit from our learning.

[pairodice]

Richard, that is the main reason I put all this stuff out here! If I ever sell the coach I’ll have to erase all these posts or else they will think I have tons of problems! Also I have a memory such that if I don’t write it down I forget it - only so much I can remember and work stuff takes up most of that capacity...

[Richard]

Well……rats.

The seal started leaking for the third time during our summer trip. ATF really does make a mess. You know the engineers definition of insanity, doing the same thing over and over but expecting a different outcome.

I had some communication with the engineers at Zero Max, the manufacturer of the OHLA. The version we have is a Newell special. They normally come packed with grease, instead of having an flow through lubrication system. Newell did it in a very clever way by routing the drain hose from the hydraulic motor through the OHLA and then routing the outlet from the OHLA to the hyd reservoir. So, taking the OHLA out the loop will mean the case drain from the hyd motor will now go directly to the hyd reservoir. 

But I am tired of cleaning up that mess in the engine bay, so here is my conversion to grease filled OHLA. I used Mobil 1 SHC grease, that is why it is red in the pics.

The first pic is of the OHLA with the original JIC hydraulic fittings. These are kind of different fittings than I knew about, but I learned they are JIC on one end and ORB on the other. ORB stands for O ring boss. It is supposedly a tighter seal, but only if you can tighten the nut to make the seal between the O ring and the case. Picture two shows the old fitting removed. Those marks on the nut are where someone in the past tried to tighten it with a hammer and a punch. No way a socket or wrench is getting in there because of the right angle.

Anyhoo, I replaced the right angle fittings with a #10 ORB plug. I drilled and tapped a hole in both the plugs and installed zerk fittings prior to installation. I removed the drain plug on the top and replaced with a vent plug. I did spring for new seals although that may have been overkill with the grease.

I will provide an update after next years tour of the country.

   

           

Oh yeah, one more thing, if you ever try this. The original plug on the top of the case was 1/4 NPT with an Allen recess. After breaking two Allen wrenches, I knew it wasn’t coming out. So I found a big nut that would just fit over the plug, and plug welded the nut to the plug. No problem removing after that. This is technically known in the south as the mo powah technique.