[Richard]

This applies to both two stroke and four stroke engines. If the engine temps start to climb while climbing, do two things at the same time. Gear the engine down to get the RPMs up, and slow down. So you will be going slower but the engine will be spinning faster.

This works for two reasons. The first is that with higher RPMs you are pumping significantly more air through the engine. The increased air flow through the engine takes the heat out the exhaust pipe. The second reason is that you are slowing the rate of climbing which reduces the amount of energy it takes to climb. Reducing the energy consumed reduces the heat generated.

I think almost everyone knows this, just a reminder.

I have an alarm on the VMSPc to tell me when I hit 206. That is my cue I am pushing too hard. I have only seen it once, climbing from Reno to Tahoe. I have not seen it at all since I installed new radiator.

For the guys pre DDEC, a digital temp indicator with alarm capabilities would be desirable.

[whatsnewell]

Guy, I'm pretty sure both your engine bay doors are louvered, right?  You can adjust those louvers outward to force more outside air into your engine compartment when you are moving.  When I first got my coach the louvers were flush with the door frame, and I did not know they could be adjusted outward.  On a trip to Rincon Parkway in Ventura back in 2009 I saw another Newell Classic which had those louvers adjusted all the way out in the third position.  Before that I did not know they could be adjusted.  Since then I have moved them to the 2nd position where they remain 90% of the time, but when I know we will be traveling long distance in hot weather I move them to the 3rd position.  I'm sure you have the same setup.

   

   

   

Otherwise I do what Richard has suggested, and grab a lower gear when climbing keeping the RPM's near red line, or 2,000 RMP's in the case of a 2 stroke.  I rarely get above 200º F when climbing now.....when climbing a 6% grade my temp is typically running 195-198º F.

[kyleb]

Richard,
Mine doesn't have the adjustable louvers. Apparently, when the stainless steel cover option was chosen for the engine compartment, they were omitted.

When I repaint, I'll have to make new engine doors to incorporate this adjustable feature.

Guy, I've always been told that at 210F, the cylinder heads would crack. So, I try to avoid hitting 205F.

[Richard]

Yeah, I should have been clear on that. The 205 I quoted that I use as an alarm is for the Series 60 four stroke. I agree with Kyle, I would use a lower value for a two stroke engine.

[edkunkel]

https://www.emp-corp.com/media/Marketing...052716.pdf



these are electric side draft fans for bus and motorhome applications.

Eric

[Tf175]

Our 86 also has adjustable louvers.  There are three holes at the rear , both top and bottom . The louvers do not move individually , the whole assembly moves . As other Gurus are saying,  when I see the temp going above 190 on an incline , I will back off the throttle and downshift . If the Pyrometer starts going up fairly quickly , you will see the temp coming up soon after . I only have limited experience,  but I have noted the temp will come up very quickly on a hot day when pulling a long hill with a lot of throttle .

[Guy]

I have adjustable louvers. i will adjust them out. It had been suggested to check the fan shroud, as some classics with 8V82s, had a less than optimal shroud..
Attached is a picture of our shroud. I don't think this particular one can be improved on.

Very interesting link in the above comments, of a company that manufactures forced fan intake  assemblies. 

1800 rpm has been my red line. I don't know why I thought 1800 rpm was max, but I am sure that 2000 rpm on hard pulls will help. When the radiator was in need of a steam cleaning, I had a 15 mph 1st gear, 1800 rpm pull in Las Vegas in July . I was shocked that the radiator could loose so much capacity in 15000 miles. We now clean it seasonally  with the Radiator Genie and dawn soap.

The pyrometer is non op on this coach. I am on the fence on getting it repaired. Any thoughts ?

We attached a picture of the shroud/fan assembly. Notice all the surface rust from de greasing it, and a very wet winter in the Rockies and South Carolina. Kind of embarrassing !

[whatsnewell]

Guy, I cleaned my radiator in early January using the Genie and Dawn.....worked great! Every time I see the coach running 5° higher than normal I clean it. Sometimes every 6 months, sometimes after only 3 months. My shroud looks like yours size wise.....no rust though.

[Guy]

Clarke, I still need to have you demonstrate cleaning the wheels and now cleaning up the fan area 

[Richard]

I think @Tf175 said it best that the pyrometer is an earlier warning of rising engine temp. I would get it fixed or install a digital new one.