[bikestuff]

Tom u got it!

[Land Yacht]

ok,  darlene and i were out in the coach for a few hours this afternoon trying to draw out our new headboard and finalize the dimensions on the nightstands.  

i ran the air conditioners to keep it nice in there while we were there.  when we were done i decided to play with the thermostats some more to see if i could figure out how to get them to display the room temp instead of the setpoint temp.  

russ, you will be proud of me.  i figured it out.  

if i hold down the fan button at the same time as holding the blue down temp button for about 5 seconds then let go, it flips into another display mode that flashes between setpoint temp and actual room temp.  it keeps switching between the two about every 5 seconds or so.  

i am very happy i found out how to do that.  

likewise, to change to celcius just hold down the red and blue buttons at the same time and then let go.  same to switch back.  i know russ found that one when he was here before.  

hopefully when i get the manual next week there might be more surprises on what else can be done.  

later

tom

Hi Tom,

I tried this tonight on my SCS digital sentry in the bedroom. No luck, all pushing the fan and blue button did was change the temp and fan speed. Tried several times. Did you ever get the manual?
Thanks Mike

[Rongripon]

Gang,

This might be a little off topic, but I have an SCS Digital Sentry thermostat that I would be glad to give someone.  It came from my 2003 vintage and as far as I know it still works.  First one to holla gets it!

Cheers,
bill

Hello Bill,

I have the same thermostat you show..questions:
1. how do you open it up to get to the switches and wiring?
2. the AC side works but the heat doesn't provide a ground to run the front heater pump, ever experience that?
3. do any of the heat wires go through the basement AC?
4. does the front room heater on yours work?

when it gets cold, thats our front heat..was going to start a big fire, yuk yuk.

Ron

[Wanderman]

So I have a nice new 240V 50AMP receptacle installed and my coach is runn9ing happily off it.

On to Air Conditioning.

My rear Basement Air is running fine, good Amp draw for each compressor and the RVComfort..PHP, Coleman-Mach 6535A336 thermostat works great.

The front one...not so much.

It has the old PSG Comfortstat thermostat and doesn;t seem to work. (Heating does though) I was told that i have a single compressor front AC unit and the build prints agree. Almost couldn't find it! It's in the center of the chassi accessible from two bays BEHIND 2 false carpeted walls on either side!

First. is there an easy way to determine if it is a dual or single compressor unit. And if it is a single, would the RVComfort..PHP, Coleman-Mach 6535A336 work as well for both heat and AC?? Wiring?

Attached is a photo of the wiring of the t-stat in front. I'm also not sure the RVcomfort one would even FIT in the little opening with door.


Any information would be helpful. Looks like the wiring is wrong.

I am getting closer to being on the road again!!

Thanks!!

[encantotom]

to know if you have 2 double aircons or a double and a single is simple

look at the ac breakers. if there are 4 of them, then you have 2 double units. if there are 3, you have a double and a single.

tom

[Wanderman]

Tom,
Excellent Advice. I will check the panel tomorrow.

After researching the other threads regarding thermostats, it appears that the newell supplied RV Comfort one in the thread is for a double unit (plus heat) They are 12V thermostats. In the thread someone posted the swap from an old one to the new RV Comfort Coleman-Mach one, but it's just a "move one wire over from terminal 6 to terminal 3-ish) So Not really sure what each wire does...nor the bunch of twisted together leads behind the thermostat.

I REALLY wish Newell would supply systems schematics. They are so good at color coding the wiring....

At this point I just want to figure out what wire triggers what and do some testing. Maybe this thermostat is wired wrong (which wouldn't surprise me at all) and all is well. Could be the enture AC unit (fan and compressor) is toast or maybe just the control board.

I am learning how it all works together. Once I know..I am happy to share!

Thanks,

[Richard]

GL is low inside fan
GH is high inside fan
Y1 is compressor 1
Y2 is compressor 2, which you don’t have
Red is 12 VDC +
Black is ground
White is heat, signal to AH

With that info, use your voltmeter to see if Tstat is doing what it should
Remember there is at least a two minute or longer delay when making a change on that particular Tstat before the change is enacted. That is to protect the compressor from restarting against high head pressure.

If that works, then you must access control board before determining anything else.

I will help you, but my motto is “In God we trust, everybody else bring data” meaning that I will ask you very specific questions in helping you diagnose the unit. The first one is how cold is the exit and return air? Cool, room temp, hot are not the right answers. The temperatures measured with a digital thermo are the right answers.

Second question, how many amps is the unit pulling with the temp set point at least three degrees below ambient. This would be best measured at the power feed into the unit, second best at the breaker box, and third best looking at your overhead ammeter.

[Wanderman]

Richard,
No problem...empirical data rules!

Would you know the original Newell loom colors for those terminals?

Right now I have no operation of fans nor compressor. I ordered a thermostat and will start with that. The old PSG one turns off randomly. Once I get the wires installed I will begin from there.

Thanks,

[Wanderman]

Tom.

Forgot to mention, I looked at  the rear house panel. It appears that i have 3 separate 110v breakers. One for each unit (sub-unit?)

[encantotom]

yup 3 units. front rear and mid. one double and a single

tom