While driving behind me one cold Arkansas day, my wife noticed smoke coming from the area where the exhaust stack enters the muffler. Yesterday a friend took this video.
After the run we were inspecting the engine bay and I noticed a coolant pipe joint that appears to be missing clamps or the clamps are not in the proper position (see pictures of pipe entering the radiator). Before I brought the coach home a Detroit Diesel shop worked on that side of the engine.
We’re hoping this is the issue BUT... adding clamps will be difficult!!!
By chance does anyone know what size the pipe/joint sleeve is or what size clamp would be used? I’d like to use T Bolt clamps like the ones used on the pipe above.
(The first pic loaded 90* from the proper orientation)
Kristi & Jeff King
Bentonville, Arkansas
#744 2005 45’ Newell Coach
ZF Suspension/Active Steering Tag Axle
CAT-13 ACERT KCB Engine 525HP 1642 ftlbs Torque Cat Compound Turbocharger 43.5 psi
Allison HD4000MH Transmission with PTO drive.
As you look at the radiator from the outside there is a black shield on the far left. Remove the door gas spring. Remove the shield. Should be held on by 4 pop rivets. This may give you enough room to get the clamps on, although you'll be working in the blind.
First, you need constant tension hose clamps, not the screw band type. When I replaced my radiator, I used double on the coolant hose, since it is prone to leak, and hard to access. When you do reach the area, feel on the steel coolant pipes for a slight bulge. Obviously, the clamp should be on the outer side of the bulges.
You are going to think I'm nuts. I am a rather small guy, but I have accessed that area, without taking the fan motor out. If you stand and stare at the fan motor there is a 1 inch hose, mine is blue, that connects the radiator expansion tank to the water pump. I am not talking about the overflow tank.
If you remove both the overflow tank (four bolts) and you take that coolant hose loose from the expansion tank ( you have to drain the tank), and you get a step stool to stand on, then you can wriggle into the cavity between the engine and the hyd fan motor. It is not easy or comfortable, but it can be done. Tom is laughing his head off as he reads this.
You'll need a helper to hand you tools.
If you don't think you can get into that space, the alternative is to pull the fan loose from the fan motor, and leave it in the fan shroud. Take the four bolts on the bottom of the fan motor loose that hold it to the H mount. Move the fan motor up onto the exhaust manifold. Take the four bolts that hold the H mount (fan motor support mount) loose and remove it.
Now you can crawl into the cavity and do what you need to do.
You CANNOT reach this area by removing the engine access hatch in the bathroom. Been there, tried that.
Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home )
First, you need constant tension hose clamps, not the screw band type. When I replaced my radiator, I used double on the coolant hose, since it is prone to leak, and hard to access. When you do reach the area, feel on the steel coolant pipes for a slight bulge. Obviously, the clamp should be on the outer side of the bulges.
You are going to think I'm nuts. I am a rather small guy, but I have accessed that area, without taking the fan motor out. If you stand and stare at the fan motor there is a 1 inch hose, mine is blue, that connects the radiator expansion tank to the water pump. I am not talking about the overflow tank.
If you remove both the overflow tank (four bolts) and you take that coolant hose loose from the expansion tank ( you have to drain the tank), and you get a step stool to stand on, then you can wriggle into the cavity between the engine and the hyd fan motor. It is not easy or comfortable, but it can be done. Tom is laughing his head off as he reads this.
You'll need a helper to hand you tools.
If you don't think you can get into that space, the alternative is to pull the fan loose from the fan motor, and leave it in the fan shroud. Take the four bolts on the bottom of the fan motor loose that hold it to the H mount. Move the fan motor up onto the exhaust manifold. Take the four bolts that hold the H mount (fan motor support mount) loose and remove it.
Now you can crawl into the cavity and do what you need to do.
You CANNOT reach this area by removing the engine access hatch in the bathroom. Been there, tried that.
The leaning is from the height control valves which are not the original for this rig. I believe they would work fine if it had a rear sway bar. I’m going to call Newell to find out what it needs. Apparently there is a delay in the fill position that causes the leaning.
The sway bar is on my top ten plus list.
Kristi & Jeff King
Bentonville, Arkansas
#744 2005 45’ Newell Coach
ZF Suspension/Active Steering Tag Axle
CAT-13 ACERT KCB Engine 525HP 1642 ftlbs Torque Cat Compound Turbocharger 43.5 psi
Allison HD4000MH Transmission with PTO drive.
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