[Jackflash]

I checked that line out pretty thoroughly When I did the initial repair but I'm sure I will go back over it. I have a large compressor in the garage that I'm planning to run a line the 150' out to the barn so there won't be any noise pollution to deal with. currently I don't have any tools (this is my first leak chase) but should have an ultrasonic tester at the house by the time I get home. I'm going to swing by the hardware store and pick up the parts to build the tools shown in in your thread Steve. Speaking of which, what parts are required to build the one with the two gauges?

[rheavn]

Two gauges that register 0 to around 150 psi.  A 1/4" collar with a shut off valve.  Two 1/4" and/or 3/8" air line connector.  2' of either 1/4" and/or 3/8" air line. and two nipples to attach the gauges to the shut off valve.  The reason for 1/4" and/or 3/8" is because your coach probably has both like mine.  Build all the tools as you will need them all.  All are simple and inexpensive.  I got all the parts from Amazon.

Pictures are worth a 1,000 words.............................................................

http://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=2705

When you start using your leak down tool, my acceptable standard is the line, fitting or component should lose no more than 1 pound in an hour.


Good luck...............................

[Richard]

I’m sorry to be the jerk here but no one is mentioning the elephant in the room and you need to hear it. Driving any coach with an air leak like that is endangering the lives of the occupants and other drivers. You need to maintain air pressure for the brakes to function. Please do not drive the coach until this issue is resolved. Sorry to be such a knucklehead but this thread scared me to death because either there was no mention of the consequences or I missed it. I also am appalled that if you discussed this problem with Newell at any time that they did not tell you to park the rig. Again my apologies.

[House Divided]

I have to agree with Richard. If this were mine I would consider it unsafe to drive until fixed.

[rheavn]

"In its current condition, your coach does not pass the basic daily brake test & your coach should not be driven until the problem is corrected."

I think you missed it.

"I also am appalled that if you discussed this problem with Newell at any time that they did not tell you to park the rig."

He didn't discuss the problem with Newell, he just utilized their campground.

[Jackflash]

The rig is parked until fixed, I do understand the gravity of the situation. While driving it home, once up, the brake pressures never dropped below 100 PSI or so and that was only when I was using the brakes extensively. It was only after I arrived home that it seems to have totally given up on trying to raise the pressures above 75 PSI. Started researching the effects of a bad governor today that has potential. Fired it up when I got heme from work and again it came up to about 75 and leveled off, traced the lines around and found the dryer on the rear bulkhead of the left rear fended well. Still haven't found the wet tank. the relief valve (or what ever it is) on the bottom of the dryer was leaking air continuously but not severely. I'm assuming it shouldn't leak at all. Figure I will get a new filter for it tomorrow and check the valve out more thoroughly while replacing the filter. wondering if the off-loading valves in the top of the compressor might need attention as well. From what I gather, the compressors typically last about 400k miles and my rig only has 150k on it so I'm doubting that is the problem.

[rheavn]

Water in the air system can cause air valves to fail & leak.  Your coach has 10 or 11 air tanks that need to be drained regularly.  I drain mine when I lubricate the coach at 5,000 miles.  You may or may not have an air tank in compartment R-1. You do have a wet tank in the front of the right wheelwell. You also have nine more air tanks under the coach. Also the desiccant filter needs to be changed regularly.  I do mine annually.

[kyleb]

That valve on the bottom of the dryer will cause some serious air loss. When mine went bad, it wouldn't let it build pressure, but it didn't sound like much of a leak.

[Jackflash]

I have seen the tank in the right wheel well, I will drain it. There is a tank in the front right compartment with the 120V compressor, I keep it drained. I have also seen one just aft of the front axle in the center of the frame, don't have a clue where all the others are. Is the valve on the dryer something you rebuild or simply replace? If you replace it, what should I look for to get the correct replacement?

[ron skeen]

The rig is parked until fixed, I do understand the gravity of the situation.  While driving it home, once up, the brake pressures never dropped below 100 PSI or so and that was only when I was using the brakes extensively.  It was only after I arrived home that it seems to have totally given up on trying to raise the pressures above 75 PSI.  Started researching the effects of a bad governor today that has potential.  Fired it up when I got heme from work and again it came up to about 75 and leveled off, traced the lines around and found the dryer on the rear bulkhead of the left rear fended well.  Still haven't found the wet tank.  the relief valve (or what ever it is) on the bottom of the dryer was leaking air continuously but not severely.  I'm assuming it shouldn't leak at all.  Figure I will get a new filter for it tomorrow and check the valve out more thoroughly while replacing the filter.  wondering if the off-loading valves in the top of the compressor might need attention as well.  From what I gather, the compressors typically last about 400k miles and my rig only has 150k on it so I'm doubting that is the problem.

I had to replace the engine air compressor at 100k miles. Thinking the same miles things that happen on one coach should be the same on the other is not always right.