[Richard]

I’m not Steve but I screwed hose barbs into both of the bungs. One hose attaches to the upper coolant tank. The second hose is a clear piece of tygon tubing run up beside the tank. That works as a sight gauge. I put a wee bit of paper towel in the top of the sight hose to keep junk out

[rheavn]

I am Steve & I did what Richard did for my sight gauge. To keep junk out the top I took a different approach than Richard. I found a "Christmas tree" style clip that fit in the top and cut grooves on two sides with a grinding wheel so tube could vent.

[folivier]

Something like this would work for venting, and they come in different colors even chrome:
https://www.amazon.com/Dovewill-Valve-Br...ather+vent

[RWH]

I received the aluminum tank from the Buggy Manufacturer in Kansas. As per the valuable knowledge from the Newell Guru’s, the tank fit the original CRS Overflow tank bracket. The only modifications were new, stainless, mounting bolts.

As the overflow tank was always in the way for entrance into the DS engine bay, I was able to mount the original tank bracket on hinges, so I could swing the tank out of the way for engine maintenance or adding coolant. The top bolt slides through the mount bracket and is captured with a SS nut, lock washer, etc.

There will be photos as soon as I figure out how to post them.

           


I now have questions????

Should the CRS 7# radiator cap be replaced with a 12-15# cap? On very hot days, the system seems to burp and blow coolant out the expansion tank overflow vent. Seems as though, CRS maintained a slight pressure in their overflow tank as their plastic fill cap may have held a slight pressure and the black sight tube plug had leakage around the sides.

I read previous posts and their were mentions of 12-17# radiator caps for the DDEC 12.7L Detroit.

By now, yousens should have broken machinery so I don't have to. 

Thanks for your willingness to share. 

Wayne Hunt

[Richard]

Wayne
Good to hear from you. In my opinion the coolant recovery tank should be free to breathe. If you put a pressurized cap on it you will definitely blow coolant out of the overflow tube. I think I even drilled a small hole in the cap of the aluminum tank to allow it to breathe. I do not have the burping from the overflow tube.

[RWH]

Wayne
Good to hear from you. In my opinion the coolant recovery tank should be free to breathe. If you put a pressurized cap on it you will definitely blow coolant out of the overflow tube. I think I even drilled a small hole in the cap of the aluminum tank to allow it to breathe. I do not have the burping from the overflow tube.

I thought I ordered the tank with a vented cap. Jon said he did. The cap I have has a gasket, so it may not be vented. I’ll have to ensure. If needed, I'll drill a relief in the cap.  Thanks

What pressure cap for the radiator finally became the consensus value? The cap on there now is 7# from CRS. It is apparently part of the Arise CRS installation kit. That seems a little low. I think there is an Atlas radiator, so I don't want to over pressure it. 12#-17# seems to be the internet range. What have you found?

By the way, I updated your paper towel particulate filter in the tank level tube to a plastic thread protector cap from a female tubing connector. It has asynchronous air ingress and egress characteristics.

[rheavn]

That is the same cap I have on mine & I have never had mine burp from the overflow tube.  I use a 13# cap on the radiator fill tank inside the locking door on the left rear of coach.

Unique way of mounting. Good job.

[77newell]

I've only had the two stroke engines. The standard pressure on them was 7psi.

[RWH]

   
The cap for the aluminum coolant expansion tank was supposed to be a vented cap. It was not. I replaced it with a Stant, #10623 which is a vented anti-surge fuel tank cap. Outside, both caps look identical. 
Just drove back to Abilene from Lubbock. Coolant tank level seemed to respond as expected.

Thanks, all, for your input and suggestions.

[bikestuff]

Gurus,

I finally got my tank replaced.  (My Arize technology plastic tank failed near one of the mounting straps).

   

I polished the tank and since the top and bottom were irregular, I primed and painted them semi-gloss black to match the rest of the engine bay.

I also primed and painted the mounting straps to match.

The sight glass is made from 3/8” OD polycarbonate solid tubing.  It is rated for 250F degrees and is connected to tank with 3/8” ID radiator tubing (from Oreilly).

The tank came with a cap, and since I didn’t know if it vented....I drilled a hole in it. (Now it vents for sure)

I am very happy with the way this came together.  Thanks to Steve for figuring out a great replacement for the Arize tank.

Cheers,
Bill