[jcus]

If you are only pulling 11 amps you could add more freon. As you ad freon you can see the amp draw go up. I would take take the ac up to at least 13 amps maybe even 14 amps. That would be measured at the breaker in the house because it would also add the fan amperage for a total. Made a big difference.

Brad

Good idea, I was looking at the amp meters over the dash, think I will use a amprobe and add freon using it.

[Brad Townsend]

I found my amp meters over the driver were reading almost 3 amps higher than my clamp on meter.
I just clamped over the wire at the breaker.
Let us know if that makes a difference.
Also a infrared thermometer is essential in seeing the difference in every addition of freon. I highly recommend one. 

Brad

[Richard]

Hang on chaps. Amperage and gauge pressures are good ways to coarsely adjust the refrigerant level.

I am not trying to be all AC know it all on you. I am trying to make sure that you stay as a cool as a possible in the the coach. Or better yet, that your better half stays cool. My bride doesn't do heat. Happy wife, happy life. That is the absolute driver of everything I know about AC systems.

Do some research on capillary systems, as opposed to expansion valve systems (TXV), and use the superheat method to determine how much refrigerant to add. It's not hard and it is the most accurate way to charge a system.

[jcus]

Hang on chaps. Amperage and gauge pressures are good ways to coarsely adjust the refrigerant level.

I am not trying to be all AC know it all on you. I am trying to make sure that you stay as a cool as a possible in the the coach. Or better yet, that your better half stays cool. My bride doesn't do heat. Happy wife, happy life. That is the absolute driver of everything I know about AC systems.

Do some research on capillary systems, as opposed to expansion valve systems (TXV), and use the superheat method to determine how much refrigerant to add. It's not hard and it is the most accurate way to charge a system.

Have not really looked at it, but these units have no txv or sight glass? Getting about 23 degree difference between air in and out of evaporator. Coach is in the sun and it is 96 f now.

Jim

[Brad Townsend]

I am just going by what I learned at Newell and they go by pressure and or amperage, making sure to stay below the breaker rating in my case which is 15 amps.
Richard you talk about something I am not familiar with but also might contribute to my problem. I will also have to update my on-going post in the AC area. I installed the booster capacitor as you suggested and it is working so far. My Ac temp out of the duct in the coach was as low as 35 degrees. Maybe I have to much freon which could make the compressor work hard??
Do you know what your units are pulling?

Brad

[Richard]

Brad,

First of all, my experience with Dometic units was on a previous Newell that we owned. It's been three years since I've worked on a Dometic. If you are truly blowing 35 degree air, keep an eye out for icing evaporator coil. Really, really cold air is a sign of LOW charge. The problem is the coil will ice, and the whole system goes haywire including overheating the compressor.

Jim, 23 degree delta is superb. Don't touch anything.

There are four ways to charge an AC unit. By volume, usually calculated by some pointy headed engineer like.....me. Two, byamperage, a direct indicator of load on the compressor, but less than ideal since it is dependent on temp and humidity.Three, by gauge pressures, which is HIGHLY variable based on ambient temperature, incoming air temperature, and humidity. Fourth, and the most accurate, is by superheat if an expansion valve system, and supercool if a capillary tube system. If you are going to be adjusting the charge in your AC units, take some time to read up on those two methods.

In todays home AC units which use blended refrigerants like 410, and achieve high SEER ratings, it is tough to just charge the refrigerant by gauge. Almost all techs trained in the last ten years were taught supercool and superheat.

The Dometic units are capillary design. The SCS units are expansion valve design.

[Joe Galowitch]

I am in the process of taking delivery of 469. I noted that there are no filters in the basement air on either side and also the louvre are missing. I talked to a guy about just installing furnace filters in home made panels. What is the opinion on this?

[folivier]

The A/C air return (usually) is at the entry steps inside. There should be a pull out filter there.

[HoosierDaddy]

My Newell has Dometic units. There were filters that attached into channels immediately adjacent to the evaporaters . I went to Lowes Depot and got some fiberglass furnace filter material and cut to fit.

[Richard]

The washable furnace filter material is the usual filtration media