[HoosierDaddy]

Floridian, You can see the lever about midway just above the pan. This one appears to have a shift cable end attached to it.

[Floridian]

Typically, Allison transmissions are wired to NOT allow the diesel engine to shutdown if the transmission is an another other than Neutral. Sounds like that is what happened to you. The linkage control for the transmission is on the passenger side of the coach on the side of the transmission. When the linkage is fully extended, it is in reverse, one notch forward is neutral, then drive, etc. Do you have the Stone Bennett Air Shifter on yours? (toggle switch to change gears rather than a transmission level). Those do need air pressure to shift gears.

When the tanks have been depleted of air from sitting for an extended period, it is always a good idea to wait until you build up pressure (preferably the full 120 psi) before trying to shift gears.  With less than 60 psi the drive axle brakes will be engaged and you won't be able to move the coach anyway, that is the reason you couldn't get the coach to move. That is a required safety feature since otherwise you would have driven off with NO brakes at all.

You mentioned that it took 10 minutes to reach 60 psi. It does take a number of minutes for the tank to air up, especially if the brake tanks are depleted and the suspension air bags are down.

I prefer to wait until I hear the air blow-off valve actuate prior to putting attempting to put the coach in gear. I also visually verify that the rear fenders are lifted off the drive axle tires to prevent the fenders from cutting into the tires. Typically by the time the air blow-off valve dumps, the fenders are well off the tires but the thought of tearing up a perfectly good pair of expensive tires because I didn't wait long enough is plenty of incentive for me to do a walk around before shifting into gear. That may not be an issue on the pre-1990 Newells but it certainly is no mine.

I do have one of those Stone Bennett air shifter, PO (Ron) mentioned he changed something in it (can't remember exactly, it was too much information in one sitting).

I did have the airbags deflated and didn't walk around before moving the coach but that is a great thing to do as a general check (added to my list). 

By the way I was told that I shouldn't have the engine idling for more than 5 minutes, that is not good for the engine (oil pressure) so I don't know how to do this without having the engine running. I do have a small air pump right behind the little motor that provides air for the generator, but haven't found how to turn it on yet (I guess it is 110v) will that little compressor build up pressure for the Brakes and the rest of the different systems?

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Floridian, You can see the lever about midway just above the pan. This one appears to have a shift cable end attached to it.

Thank you so much for taking the time to share that picture! I'll take a look at it tomorrow and see if I can reach that from the engine compartment just to be aware of what I'm dealing with in case something like no air situation happens.

Again, thank you!

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My '87 shifter is in reverse when fully retracted. It bolts on using the transmission oil pan bolts & is mounted horizontal.
The 'neutral only shutdown' is in the Stone Bennett shifter wiring at the driver.

A friend's '87 uses an electric actuator to shut down the engine, mine needs air. . .

I'll take a look at it tomorrow and see if I can move that with something and have that something in one of my storage bays in case of an emergency.

[77newell]

Regarding idling a 2-stroke engine. Yes, the oil pressure is very sensitive to engine speed, though more so when the oil is hot. Some of these engines are equipped with a "high idle" switch which raises the rpm's. Lacking that you can use the throttle once the air pressure comes up enough to make the air throttle work. Around 1000rpm is sufficient.

Let's not make ourselves crazy here. If you are caught in stop-n-go traffic you are going to do a lot of idling or near idling. The engine will suffer a tiny bit but you will never notice. That said, the very real threat to these engines is overheating. You can get away with idling, you won't with overheating.

[HoosierDaddy]

I have used a steel rod to move the shift lever from the engine bay. On my '93 the easier way is from the rear of the coach with a 5 foot wooden stick. ( with the parking brake set of course)

[kyleb]

I do have a small air pump right behind the little motor that provides air for the generator, but haven't found how to turn it on yet (I guess it is 110v) will that little compressor build up pressure for the Brakes and the rest of the different systems?

Mine has a little switch on the dash . . . .

[Richard]

It will take the small 110V compressor a very long time to rebuild coach pressure if the tanks are empty and the coach is down on the air bags.

If you don't have an high idle switch, some cruise controls will allow you to raise the RPM.

[kyleb]

It will take the small 110V compressor a very long time to rebuild coach pressure if the tanks are empty and the coach is down on the air bags.

If you don't have an high idle switch, some cruise controls will allow you to raise the RPM.

My small 110v compressor takes about 30 minutes to air up to about 90 psi.

In a pinch, when my air dryer purge valve failed, that little compressor allowed me to save a tow bill & make it home safely - although it was a bit nerve wracking.

[Floridian]

Regarding idling a 2-stroke engine. Yes, the oil pressure is very sensitive to engine speed, though more so when the oil is hot. Some of these engines are equipped with a "high idle" switch which raises the rpm's. Lacking that you can use the throttle once the air pressure comes up enough to make the air throttle work. Around 1000rpm is sufficient.

Let's not make ourselves crazy here. If you are caught in stop-n-go traffic you are going to do a lot of idling or near idling. The engine will suffer a tiny bit but you will never notice. That said, the very real threat to these engines is overheating. You can get away with idling, you won't with overheating.

I completely understand what you are saying. I don't get myself crazy about idling but I try to keep an eye on it when I can. When you in a parking lot situation there is NOTHING you can do.

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I do have a small air pump right behind the little motor that provides air for the generator, but haven't found how to turn it on yet (I guess it is 110v) will that little compressor build up pressure for the Brakes and the rest of the different systems?

Mine has a little switch on the dash . . . .

Ha! That what it was AIR COMP....now it makes complete sense, I guess that I'm overthinking it, today, just today found out where the high beam switch is don't laugh.....but I feel that some things are there and they are not used at all (or they don't work in my coach ) like the turn signals switch that you can rotate (on top of move forward and backward, up and down) into three different positions, but they don't do anything on mine.

[Floridian]

It will take the small 110V compressor a very long time to rebuild coach pressure if the tanks are empty and the coach is down on the air bags.

If you don't have an high idle switch, some cruise controls will allow you to raise the RPM.

I'm pretty sure I haven't found such a label on the buttons, there is a button in the center of the dash with a red cap on it....it makes me nervous just by looking at it   will that be it? Or is it the auto-destruct button?



It never cross my mind to enable cruise control to raise rpm! That is a great tip, I'll give it a try next time I'm in the coach.

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It will take the small 110V compressor a very long time to rebuild coach pressure if the tanks are empty and the coach is down on the air bags.

If you don't have an high idle switch, some cruise controls will allow you to raise the RPM.

My small 110v compressor takes about 30 minutes to air up to about 90 psi.

In a pinch, when my air dryer purge valve failed, that little compressor allowed me to save a tow bill & make it home safely - although it was a bit nerve wracking.

Thanks for sharing that! I'll have that as a backup then, as you mentioned.

[HoosierDaddy]

We removed the shifting mechanism and checked it out. I called T A Anderson Pumps and based on my description they recommended that I ship it to them. After inspecting it they called and informed me of the issues and the parts needed. The estimate was $600.00 to rebuild it. A new end plate was needed which was $135 of the cost. That is less than 1/2 the price of a new air shifter so that is what we did. After our initial conversation they called back and said I could save $100 if they used the original solenoid electro-magnets. I opted to replace them while they had it on the bench. They sent the old magnets back to me just in case I may need them in the future. I'm very satisfied with their service. The turn around was two days, on time and at the estimated price.