[valento]

I will follow up separately on my plans for a much quieter remote radiator fan design for the generator.  For now, though, we have to scurry off to Miami for a whole slew of remodeling and other work.

We'll probably see you at Miami for we will be getting there on Thanksgiving for a month of warranty work.  Sounds like you are planning on having your coach there for a while!

[ron skeen]

Okay, today Newell 1234 is finally out of the shop!

It turns out both the rad and CAC had leaks at the header (I think that is the right word), and since the labor cost along to remove and replace going to be > $4k, I decided to recore both units.  It got a little more complicated when the local radiator shop decided to punt on welding up the new CAC -- something about aluminum, mismatches, and not wanting to "be responsible" -- so I had to ship the CAC headers out to Joplin and have them order and install the new CAC.

The radiator was welded up here, and then when the CAC+headers came back, everything was reassembled and reinstalled.

Having had a bunch of conversations with different radiator companies now, my conclusion is:  no one understands why they are so poorly engineered, but these radiators fail a lot on a 7 to 10 year interval.  I guess I will just have to hope that I don't have to worry about this for another decade.

New CAC core, installation, shipping:  2.86 AMU
New rad core, shipping, installation:  1.8 AMU
Chassis removal, diagnosis, reinstallation:  ~5 AMU

They said they could do it again in about half the time, or 2.5 AMU.

So if you have a failed cooling stack on a C-15 Newell and want to replace everything at an expensive shop that hasn't done it before, I suppose you should expect to spend about 9 or 10k.

I will follow up separately on my plans for a much quieter remote radiator fan design for the generator.  For now, though, we have to scurry off to Miami for a whole slew of remodeling and other work.

i replaced my RAD & CAC on my 04 2 1/2 years ago with new Atlas components which were what was orginal. Rad is now leaking again and I am using Vol Radiator in Knoxville, TN who have record with there own core. They advise against trying to fix the leaks in the header because they said it was not a heavy duty design and they thought that a fix would only be short time. They told me the header thickness and design was not like most heavy duties radiator that they see.  I paid them $3800 for the installing the new core. Moore Tractor Repair did the removal and install. With my 96 & 04 RAD & CAC I have had out 4 times. This has been one of the most expensive Items I have replace on both coaches. I hope this is the last time this happen.

[Nebster]

We'll probably see you at Miami for we will be getting there on Thanksgiving for a month of warranty work.  Sounds like you are planning on having your coach there for a while!

Oh, that'd be great!  Our coach will definitely be there, starting next week through probably the new year.  We will have a lead time for some of the items, and plus I'm in no particular hurry.  We won't be hitting the road in the coach until next summer.

Hopefully we'll run into each other!

[Nebster]

Interesting, yes, I also had several radiator people tell me that they didn't suggest trying to repair based on the size and scale of my leaks.  There must be something about the different types of metal there plus the mechanical or thermal stress just causing trouble.

I would have thought this would be a solved problem, but maybe it is in a newer design or something.  The radiator on mine was originally made by Positech, and Positech was able to bring up the design in their computer and was willing to make another one on demand.  I didn't end up going that route, however.

If I have problems with this new one over the next few years, I will be pretty frustrated.  As much because of the huge hassle and downtime to take it out as the cost.

[jdkskyking]

This is what Ron is referring to. When I replaced the cac and the radiator I had to install the cac first and slide the radiator under the cac. It was obvious that with the cac bolted in place that the radiator was not parallel and evenly spaced from the cac. Hmmm. The cac bolts from
The top, the radiator bolts from the bottom,  but if they don't line up then forcing them
To bolt together is going to stress them both.

I noticed a series of tapped 1/4 20 holes in the bottom frame of the radiator. I used ss bolts in the tapped holes as jacking screws and raised the radiator to meet the cac.  

So far, so good.

I'm afraid I may have a leak. Earlier this week while my wife was following me in the coach she called to tell me I had white smoke coming from behind the left tire. She took video for me. It could possibly be spraying coolant. 

I knew the radiator might have an issue when I bought it but a stop leak additive had apparently stop it. When I got home after purchasing the coach I did add two gallons of coolant. I noticed the aft area of the radiator was wet but no pooling. 

I'm now in the process of educating myself on radiator issues, symptoms, removal, and repairs. I understand the radiator and CAC are a weak point but your observation the theses units don't "fit well" is suspect to longevity. If I end up removing the radiator and CAC I want to make sure they go back in correctly without stress points that could be causing them to fail prematurely. 

Any help will be greatly appreciated. I'm not sure when I'll be able to work on it due to the cold weather in Arkansas but if I'm prepared I might be able to get it done IF the weather cooperates for a small stretch. 

JK

[encantotom]

jeff,

what you might try doing before tearing into everything is to just put a radiator pressure tester on the system. you can borrow them at most autoparts stores. that way you can put system pressure on and look for leaks without the engine running.

that is how i chased down leaks on mine.

just a thought

tom

[DK on the road]

I second the pressure testing equipment. I purchased a Snap On unit some 20 years ago now and it has saved me a pile of head aches. When using it, make sure you know what pressure your cap is supposed to release and do not exceed that.

I suggest placing the tester in place of the radiator cap and warming the engine, do not add pressure yet. Then turn the engine off and monitor the pressure. See how fast it drops. I can't tell you how long, but it shouldn't loose much, its a closed system. While its off and holding, do your inspection. The larger the system the slower the drop should be (C15 15 liter vs 2 liter). A warm motor at full pressure will show its weak, hoses, radiators, freeze plugs, or worst case, cracks in the head.

I've had a crack up inside a exhaust port that only showed up at 15PSI and 210 deg water temp all on a test bench at Caterpillar. That was my needle in a hay stack. BTW this was on a loader not my Newell.

Keep us updated

[jdkskyking]

While I was at the coach this weekend I was going to remove the cap and look in the tank to find that it was completely full. The overflow reservoir still shows low. 

Still waiting for pressure tester to show. When it arrived I’ll take a look at it closer but I still don’t have any pooling. 

I’m still puzzled by what my wife was seeing. 

I’ll try to post video she took.

[Winegrower]

Today I noticed a small pool of coolant, about 5cc, on the floor. I'd had to add 1/2 gallon of coolant after returning home in early March.  On opening the driver side radiator door sure enough several fins at the front of the radiator about half way up were wet.  The last radiator repair on 1202 was in 2017 before we owned it.  Now looking for a repair shop in the Tucson/Phoenix area.  Would All Aboard America up in Phoenix be preferable to Empire Cat?  Appreciate any suggestions. 

[jdkskyking]

During my coolant investigation I discussed building a new radiator with the owner of this shop in Anderson Missouri. I’d assume if you can have your radiator removed and shipped to him he could build up a new radiator. 

https://t-n-tradiator.net/

The owner of TNT Radiator told me he had experience building and repairing Newell radiators.