[Brad Townsend]

    So my rocker switch went out last winter and i have replaced it many times since with i think cheap switches that just don't hold up.
First replacement worked then the light went out then another switch light popped right away then switch froze up. Currently just bought a new switch and light popped but switch works. I have gone through probably 10 switches since last winter. is now at the point that I am second guessing my wiring but I have pics of what I believe are the original.

Seems to me the switches made now are on the junkie side. Called parts at newell, there is a new person there now. He said he would have to look into it and have never called back, that was last week. i am attaching a picture, the switch in question is second in from the right with a white wire in front.

Any help is appreciated.

Brad

[ccjohnson]

Brad,
That switch should be for 120V. At least it is on our coach. Most RV supply places carry switches that have 12V lights in them. You need to get a switch with 120V light in it. The switches with 12V lights will work if rated for 120V and amperage is high enough, but light will pop right away. I found this out the hard way! Have a bag full of working but burned out 12V light switches. I had to order new switch from Newell. Be sure you specify 120V light in it.

[Chester Stone]

If you still have the original switch, the make and model is printed on the side and that is what would find and order.

[bestgenman]

From the looks of your push on terminals, I would say the problem here is heat generated from poor connection coupled with a fairly high current flow.  

The answer, in my humble opinion, is to lower the current flow through the switch by the addition of a relay.  The switch would handle the coil of the relay (about 1/2 amp) and the contacts of the relay do the real work of carrying the heater load.  Potter & Brumfield make relays for this purpose and Newell has used them for years.

[Brad Townsend]

It is 120 volt and the switches I have had pop the light is stamped 220 115-14 volt. but I have had one that did not have the 14 volt along with the other 2 ratings and the light worked so it seems that the people selling them don't know the difference and say it should work for all applications. Although it worked the switch itself broke inside in a couple months. Junk. And I can't seem to find another. Will try Newell again after the holiday. The wires are probably a little baked because I increased the heater element to 1500 watts. Will lower it next time I replace it. Has been working fine for years. I think things are made to break down now a days.

[Richard]

Gordon is on the right track. Install a relay ! You can keep your high wattage element, and you won't have to replace any more switches.

[Brad Townsend]

So I now there are many types of relays but don't know where to start and how would that take place of the switch?

[Richard]

Brad,

Do a little Google search and give yourself a basic understanding of what relays do and how they work. When we stop tonite I'll find one that is suitable and post the link. Relays are used in many places on the coach and it would be good to understand them when it comes to troubleshooting

[Land Yacht]

Richard, I could use a primer on relays. Hope you find one :-)
Thanks Mike
BTW: we made a 3 travel day, 9 day total journey, and now at Grand Lake south of Miami for a while. Thank God, all systems worked well in route! Not saying all systems are right :-) I am getting used to minor fixes along the way...

[encantotom]

relays are simple.

just think about having a switch inside of a switch. the heavy current side comes in on one terminal and out on a another. then a coil that takes small amount of current is activated by whatever you are switching. in this case, the rocker switch that is on the panel would apply current to the coil of the relay. when the coil energizes, it pulls down a contact that connects the tow heavy current side terminals that then applies the current to whatever you are turning on or off.

the relay just has to be rated for the voltage and current of the item you are switching.

the coil on the relay can be 12v or 120v (or alot of others as well but not applicable here)

on some relays you can have normally open or normally closed.

tom