[pestes]

So, the leak we encountered in the bedroom is definitely due to sealing around the window frame. I found 2 specific spots where I could cause water ingress with a hose. For the moment I've applied sealant externally but ultimately plan to remove the window frame and reinstall with a new round of butyl tape.

However the question now stands as to the existing damage. Here's a picture of where the water ingress point was under the corner of the window frame and where it ran down the wall. There is a bit of mold here obviously after pulling the wall paper off.

Any opinions on whether this can be treated or if we need to replace this section of plywood in the outer wall?

If replacement is necessary - how difficult a job is that? Will the foam layer in the wall get damaged by removing the plywood? I also worry that this particular sheet disappears behind the left bedroom wall. The stain stops before the wall but I worry replacement would require replacing the entire sheet, including what is behind the laminate wall.

[encantotom]

that doesnt looktoo bad to me. i did replace some of the plywood in the same area on mine. i used a oscillating multi saw thing and cut out the bad pieces and replaced them. the foam is not stuck to the plywood. they apply the foam and then the wood on top of it after the foam is dry.

mold to me is an individual decision.

i replaced some of my wood because it was starting to soften. i did spray lots of bleach on it and on the foam. on my 90 i did strip some foam out and refoam it with roofing two part foam.

tom

[HoosierDaddy]

If it were mine I would apply bleach, let it air dry and paint with Kilz.

[77newell]

My guess is that it would be OK with bleach and Kilz. Another option; gently sand the mold away using a dust collection sander and then coat the area with epoxy using fillers to level with surrounding ply. West Marine will have the needed materials.

[folivier]

Cleaning with bleach will kill the mold and spores, once you stop the leak. If you're concerned about water damage from future leaks I've used CPES to treat wood. This 2 part thin epoxy will be absorbed by the wood which prevents the wood from then absorbing water.
http://www.rotdoctor.com/products/cpes.html

[HoosierDaddy]

CPES, I didn't know about that product....Thanks Forest!

[folivier]

I've used it on a few projects, including my '93 when I rebuilt the bathroom floor because of leaks. I treated the plywood subfloor with multiple coats. Their premise is that the wood absorbs the epoxy into the cells and binds there which prevents water from being absorbed, rather than being just a surface treatment.

[Richard]

I would spray bleach, let it dry, and then wait through several rains or hose applications before I painted or rewallpapered.

Having repapered our coach I found wallpaper liner to be the trick for hiding the surface of the plywood from transferring through the vinyl paper.

It's much easier to remove that valence at the window when you repaper than trying to work around it.

[pestes]

Thanks for the opinions everyone!

I had wiped it down with generous amounts of bleach right from the start. I think the wood will be a keeper at this point. Treated it with a mold inhibitor this morning and plan to primer over it as well once it's dried.

I'm going to see if I can find someone to pull the the window and reinstall to make sure the repair is permanent sooner rather than later. Unfortunately I don't have enough hands to try to pull it out myself. But I'd feel much better with a new butyl seal than the thin'ish bead of sealant that's currently keeping water out.

[encantotom]

i replaced all the windows in my 90 newell. it is not hard at all.

the trim ring on the inside is all that holds the window in other than the butyl tape.

you just take the ring off and have someone on the outside and gently push on the frame on the inside. clean the coach and the window up well and get some butyl in rolls and put it around, put the window back in and screw the trm ring back on. then use a plastic putty knife to get the butyl off on the outside. then i would tighten the screws on the trim ring every day for a couple of days to make sure it is sealed good.

tom

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