[rheavn]

Since Les Korcala is having problems with his dump valves I thought I would repost my experience with the maintenance of my dump valves.

It was finally time to take on a maintenance issue that no one really likes. I hope my experience will help others. I read everything I could on the dump valves, as they are different than any other coach I have owned, so I had an idea of what I was going to encounter. My coach has three dump valves. Two air valves and one manual valve.

I started with the manual valve in the main water bay. I could pull the valve to the full open position, but I could not get it to seat in the closed position, so I suspected a problem. There are two screws on the top surface of the valve below the handle(if manual valve) or air cylinder(if air valve) that hold the dump valve in the housing. I tried to just pull up, but it didn't budge. I used a small rubber hammer & got it to move and was able to pull it straight up & out. Some one had used a small amount of silicone and that is probably why I couldn't just pull it out. The valve seal was "ruffled" which meant it was bad and needed to be replaced. This valve showed no evidence of maintenance.

I then went to the air dump valve in the main water bay. This is the main dump valve I use and there was silicone grease visible so it looked like it had received maintenance. Since I've been using this valve I presumed it was good. I drained the air system & disconnected the air lines. I unscrewed the two screws that hold the valve in the housing. I pulled straight up & it came right out. The seal was "ruffled" rather badly & needs to be replaced.

I then went to the air dump valve that is located in the rear of the AquaHot bay on the opposite side as the main water bay. This valve did not move when air was applied, so I knew this valve had issues. I disconnected the air lines. I unscrewed the two screws that hold the valve in the housing. I tried to pull straight up, but it didn't move. I tried the small rubber hammer & still no movement. I got a bar & set up a lever. After several attempts I got it to move & slowly was able to lever it out. It came out very hard. When it did come out there was no seal. The seal was wedged in the housing. I tried many different hooking tools, but to no avail. With a screwdriver I worked it to the bottom of the housing and over to the discharge side. All this was done in the blind and by feel as it was too tight an area to get in & look into the housing. The discharge end of the dump pipe had a 90 turn which kept me from a look from that end. After much thought I remembered a manual spring snake I bought over 40 years ago---wasn't sure I still had it. After a long search I found it. I was able to "snake" the seal out in about five minutes. The seal was badly swollen, distorted and torn. There was no signs of any maintenance.

My after job analysis is that one is better to maintain these valves a little more often, before you cause yourself BIG PROBLEMS. The seals are a $6.35 item. The one main air valve that showed signs of maintenance came out easily. If they had all come out easy I could do the entire maintenance job, even installing any needed seals, in about an hour. Obviously I have many hours invested so far.

I attached a photo of the distorted seal, the air dump valve, the area I had the problem and the spring snake I used.

Hope this is helpful.....................

[encantotom]

I talked to Steve when mine were not working. I did what he did and I also bought the air cylinder rebuild kit and did those. Just needs a snap ring pliers my valve on the Aquahot side was a bear. I ended up buying a fibreoptic color inspection camera I have since used it a lot on the coach.

Tom

[Chester Stone]

My experience with this curb side air valve is not a good one. It would not move with air and upon closer inspection, I discovered the the plastic body housing the valve was crushed as well as the top of the valve. The whole thing will have to be replaced and for now I am going to leave well enough alone since it does not leak. i think I can live with dumping solely from the driver's side.

[rheavn]

Chester,
I don't use the right dump valve. In fact this is the first coach I have owned that has had one. If mine was like yours I would make the same decision.

[encantotom]

My 90 has the newell factory installed macerator on the passenger side of the tank. That is the only reason I would use that side was if I was putting a macerator on and I would probably take the air valve off anyway. Tom

[bikestuff]

Steve,

Thanks for the great write-up. Can you elaborate on what you mean by "evidence of maintenance". I have had annual maintenance done by Newell twice (actually two and a half times). I am pretty sure they did not do anything to these valves. What should I be doing? Should I make it a point to operate both sets of valves?

Please don't say anything like..."First take the poo valve apart...."

[rheavn]

Bill,
What I meant was that there was no signs that the valve had had any attention in 10 years and was badly disfigured and leaking. On the other valves there was grease & silicone visible that made me think they had been dealt with even though the seals were ready for replacement. On my valve housings there is a sticker saying that the seal needs to be lubricated. I'm going to take mine apart after 3 years service(1 more year) and evaluate how much maintenance is needed. So far none are leaking. The one I use regularly is the one by the dump exit. It is not leaking so I'm figuring it is ok for another year.

Redoing dump valves is not on Newell's regular maintenance list. There are two screws on the top of the valves. With the black tank empty, drain the air from the system, remove the air lines, remove the two screws, and pull straight up. If the seal is "ruffled" it needs to be replaced. If this is an air valve, put a little air tool oil in the air inlets before you rehook up the air lines to lubricate the air cylinder. Checking the seal is a 15 minute job. If you are like me and only use the air valve closest to the sewer exit, I would only deal with that valve. Since physically inspecting the seal is the only way to see if it needs maintenance you may not like what I am telling you. This is one of those things that I don't think get better with use. I don't think just operating the valve will help the seal although it would probably be good to cycle the air cylinder to keep it from sticking. Newell will do this maintenance for you if you request it. Feel free to call me if you need any additional info.

Don't forget that you can always come by the farm and we'll get her done.

Hope I answered your question.............................

[Chester Stone]

For whatever it is worth, I carry a spare paddle with me.

[folivier]

I just replaced the paddle for the grey water bypass. It wasn't closing fully. So I dumped, undid the screws and it came out pretty easily. The seal looked a little swollen and there was some calcium buildup at the bottom (guess I should eat more salad). Greased the new paddle with silicone grease and installed. Now it works easily. I'll probably pull all 3 seals at least once a year and either replace or at least grease them.
I installed a momentary switch near the curbside dump valve so I can operate it without turning on the ignition. At our winter spot I have to use that side.