[les korcala]

Tuga,
I have qestion since we have same components configuration in our coaches.

I have located both pumps and compressors 120v & 12v
We have swith on & off on our elecric panel above microvawe and after we have switched off the 120V pump/cpmpressor and turned on the 12v pump/compressor , the 12 v system never came on? not sure what is going on?
I checked the door if it would open and did not ! so for sure the compressor never kicked in!

I could not find braker on the rear braker panel , not sure what else to look for , the small air gage on teh 12v compressor shows some 60 psi air

would you have any idea ?


Les

[encantotom]

the blade fuse for the 12v air compressor on mine is under a cover on the drivers side mid coach bay on the wall.

tom

[tuga]

Les,

I have never had that problem; mine always comes on. Tom's suggestion to check the fuse is probably a good one. If for some reason, you can't find the fuse called Newell service department and they may be able to help you.

You could also check to see if you have 12v at the pump!

[rheavn]

Les,
The fuse panel where the blade fuse for the 12V air compressor is located can be a little hard to find. On my coach, and probably yours, go to the fifth compartment back on the driver's side. Open the door. About 18" in and 18" up on the front wall is a panel that is velcroed on--just behind the round pipe that contains the genset & AquaHot exhaust pipe.. Pull that off & you will find the fuses and labels. The compressor fuse is a 10 amp fuse. Mine kept blowing when I tried to start my 12V compressor as it hadn't been used by the previous owner. I put a 15 amp fuse in its place and now it works fine.

If the fuse is good then do as Tuga suggests & check for 12 volts at the pump with the switch on.

Hope this helps............................

[les korcala]

Thanks guys for quick respond!

I have the larhe fuse box in same location as Steve mentioned ( narrow bay across from the inverter )

I checked fuses and you right that fuse was blown, need to step up and get 15 in there! will check all this weekend !

Thanks again and have all great weekend,

Les

[encantotom]

mine blows occasionally and i know my compressor is good because i replaced it. so i was going to change it to a 15a and now that i see others have done so will do it for sure.

tom

[les korcala]

I did locate the fuse box ( same spot as some of you have ) in narrow bay across from the inverter, changes fuse ( it was bad ) for 15a but still no 12v copressor ! I can not locate the swith by the copressor itself , I am thinking as someone sugested it could be switched Off, On the panel inside the coach we have switches , so I know of that one , perhaps beweed the panel and compressor itself might have break somewhere?

---

Les,
If your leak is at a "push in" type air fitting, I would advise you to replace them with a compression type fitting. That is what I did to get rid of my leak.

Steve,
if you dont mind ask you did you do it yourself and replaced the air fitting? if so, where did you buy it, from Newell or truck parts store?

My leak is back and i need to replace the fittings, was thinking of just patching the hose with extension one but I think replacing to new fitting might be way safer way doing it! alos I need to get new hose , is that hose has to be DOT passed etc..?

[Chester Stone]

I have a few questions and comments re the auxiliary air compressors. My 12v was not working, but I also had only a 10amp fuse. Replaced it with a 15, and it blew also. Seems to be holding with a 20 amp fuse. I have noticed that the 12v compressor adds air faster that the 120v compressor. However, I cannot figure out a way to determine the shut off pressure for each of them. Attached is a photo of the pressure control valve at the location on the 12v compressor. I assume that the yellow control knob controls the air pressure leaving the tank and going to the various units needing air. The valve is set now at about 55 lbs. I can adjust it to lower setting, but when I try to adjust it above 60 lbs. air escapes. Now for my questions. Is my assumption on the control valve correct, and how can i determine the shut down pressure for each of the compressors? I expect I can set the shut down by adjusting the springs in the grey pressure switches. The 120v compressor runs way past 55 lbs. and I am concerned that the shutdown is too high.
   

[encantotom]

chester,

the well pump switch (the gray box) is a preset pressure for both on and off. some are adjustible but i have not seen any that are on the newells.

mine comes on at at 80 and off at 100psi grainger part number is Pressure Switch, 80-100PSI, 1Port, DPST, 10A
Item no: 5B418. i replaced mine and it was 20 bucks.

you might try looking on the inside of the gray plastic cover.

somewhere will be the part number and if you look it up it will tell you the on and off pressure.

there should be a gray box that looks just like it for the 12v compressor.

it will come on and off at much lower pressures. like 30-60 or something like that. i would have to go look.

tom

[encantotom]

les,

on the supply side they do not need to be DOT approved fittings. some of my spares are and some are not.

before you start tracing wires etc, you should check to see if you have 12v at the compressor itself.

it is the startup current (locked rotor amps) that is blowing the fuses on these things.

these 12v compressors seem to be pretty finicky if they sit unused for a long time. they have a variety of bearing types based on the year they were made. some just have a shaft riding on a oily cloth packing, some have sleeves and some have actual bearings. the newer ones have bearings. how do i know you ask? i had a bad compressor and i took it apart. i bought a NOS one that was still old but never used. it had different bearings in it.

so before you start tracing wirings, make sure you have 12v at the right places AND make sure the compressor is getting it.

you dont want to replace a good compressor. those little babies are quite pricey. no surprise.

tom