[les korcala]

Hello,
We are on the road and loving it every day of it!
I noticed that relaxing next to our coach our compressor kicks in every 30 minutes and builds up air for about 4 minutes!

It's pain when you reading and relaxing and the compressor's cycle is steady around the clock.
about 3 months ago the cycle took more like 90 minutes and about the same 3-4 minutes to compress the air in to the tank.
We did noticed some air leak around teh dash area and it might be the same case Tom had with bad air brake seal!

Wanted to ask what is teh avrage cycle time when the compressor kick in and build air up?

Also, is anyone tried to muffle the sound coming from the copressor's bay? I looked at mine Thomas brand has nice set of suspenssion rubber washers under each mounting bolt, still loud when kicks in!
Its so funy! we are stying next to the Host at the grounds and he said to me that one night he could not sleep and just listem to my air compressor and said it will come on every 30 minutes and 3-4 minutes on! around the clock!

I was thinking to mount insolation tank to muffle some sound, but there is not much room around it and also you need lots of air space to move around it, so not sure about it, but would love to hear any ideas you might have!

How often do you air compressor kicks in? and how long it will run?

After speaking with Newell tech , he said that 3-40 minutes is norm on Newell coach.

Best,
Les

[les korcala]

    I looked under the dash near the air pedal brake and found good size air leak ! is coming from air pump ( i hope that is what is call ) one of the incoming valves ( small diamenter black hose ) I did pry all with sopa and water but not see much leaks anywhere else!
Please see photo.
Tom, is this same spot yours leaked air! if so, did you just shorten thsi hose and re mounted ? or there is part needs to be replaced?
If so, Can I do it myself? I would have to get part from Newell or who ever makes air brakes

[tuga]

Les,

My compressor comes on every 30 minutes and runs for about 2 minutes also.

Thanks for posting the picture of where your leak was. I will spray my brake pedal connection and see if mine is leaking where yours was leaking.

[rheavn]

Les,
Fixing all the air leaks is the best way to solve your problem. I had an air leak at my brake valve on the incoming 1/4" air lines. I was able to replace the air fittings that I got from NAPA & it solved my air leak. The picture is a little dark, but it looks like your air leaks are on the pressure out lines. I thought those lines would only have pressure when you push on the pedal. A truck supply place should have what you need.

A couple of thoughts. I was unable to get my air leaks under control until I got an Ultrasonic Leak Detector. Great tool & a real time saver. My compressor runs every few hours when I am not using the coach. At night you can just turn off the 110V compressor & turn on the 12V air compressor which will run the toilets & keep the slide air seals aired up. 12V air compressor is much quieter. Also you can consider replacing your 110V air compressor with a quieter one. Russ White has one that you can barely hear.

Hope this helps............................

[les korcala]

Tuga,
I hope you have same problem as I ,
I just checked cycle of my air compressor after pushing that blk hose tight to the valve , I noticed it will hold wel but not perfect ( still very some air coiming off that area )

OHm, amazing improvement!!!

57 minutes total time between cycles!! thsi air was steady laeking out very small pin hole area and made the tank loose so much air ! ( 23 minutes !!! )
After spraying well the area i could see large bubbles coming of that hose end's.
Also building air cycle is reduced to 2 minutes of total time from 3-4 minutes!

Now, I have to figure out how to fix thsi problem ! might need new hose or the valve, still not sure if is coming from steel part of plastic hose part of it?

More on thsi later.

Les

[Johnc]

Anything faster than 10 pounds in 30 minutes, and it's time to start searching for air leaks. That works out to about 45 minutes to an hour per cycle. I prefer longer, but given the number of connections, solenoids, components, etc., it can take some time to find all the 'slow' leakers.

Given todays labor rates, self troubleshooting of air leaks can save you bigtime. You can still pay for the actual 'fix' if you like, but save a bundle by showing/telling the mechanic the source.

Also, don't forget that the better-half probably has better hearing than you, and can often narrow the search area quicker. I recall spending many hours searching for a leak on my '79 Newell, when my wife walked by and said what is that noise coming from the engine compratment. Turns out the small air leak was coming from the dipstick tube because of a stuck check valve

[les korcala]

haha! love ( Also, don't forget that the better-half probably has better hearing than you ) Yes they are way better than us! My wife could hear that under dash leak for weeks and I could not!
We have poured lot of money in last few weeks to our coach on reapairs and totally agree with you! If I can solve and fix myself plus I can learn more by doing it! 'Thsi forum still is great source to find out more since several people here fix lot of problems them self!

I am so glad Tom invited me to join this group! You guys are awesome!

Best,
Les

[Chester Stone]

Les, my 110 volt air compressor is located in the generator sealed compartment, and is so quiet that you have to listen carefully to hear it running. Recently, I found it was running continuously, and discovered that the plastic hose that connects the tank to the compressor was broken. I cut it back about an inch, install a new farrell, and now everything is normal. If there are no leaks, I would suspect the pressure control switch may be cycling on and off with pressures set too close. Good luck.

[larryweikartsr]

My leak problem was almost impossible to hear. It was in the line that controls the air slide on the generator

[Gordon]

Les
The reason you have a leak there is the line was cut too short! You can see it is on an angle going into the fitting. These push lock fitting of today must have the hose cut straight & not have any tension on the hose, especially on an angle. I would get a connector & a few feet of hose. Cut the old hose about 6" from the old fitting, put on the new connector & the cut a piece of new hose to run to the old fitting in the brake valve. Given the age of your coach, your fitting is probably OK, but might be worth changing as you are there anyway.

DOT labeled fitting are required on all brake applications. It is frequently the end of the hose that goes into the fitting that is the problem. Often times it can be cut back an 1/2" & will seal, but often times Newell does not leave much extra tube.

I always advise people to carry 1/4" & 3/8" hose & connectors with them.