[encantotom]

chester, the dump port is the result of the valve internally being bad (if the actual cylinder is ok)

tom

[Shamu406]

Hey guys, just got back from a short 3 day vacation, and have some issues. I have 3 solenoids leaking, the one at the sewer dump valve (of which I just closed off by screwing in the adjuster, and manually opened the dump valve), then, the one that opens up the generator tray is also leaking, so I closed it off, then one on the right side of the Detroit engine that is attached to I believe is the hydraulic pump head? (pics attached) I think an adjuster bolt is missing, I put in an orange marker to show where the supposed bolt is missing, because it keeps hissing air, making the 110 air pump to keep running periodically.
Also, the toilet flapper is stuck open. Had to shut off the water supply to keep it from overflowing. Talked to Craig at Newell, he seems to think its an air sequence valve? Know where to get one? Any suggestions? In a jamb.
Also, my Aqua Hot is leaking underneath where the exhaust pipe is coming out. Still works, but leaks like a sieve.

[encantotom]

i will take a stab at a few things.

rudy can weigh in on the aquahot, is it diesel that is leaking out of the exhaust pipe? i had diesel leaking at mine and it was the fuel pump.

that valve for the dump is the same discussion we were having above.

the small unit on the side of the series 60 is NOT your hydraulic pump. the hydraulic pump is big and on the engine where you can see it at the back (right in front of you when you open the rear engine hatch). i am not sure what this thing is.

i have not dug into an air valve for the genny. my current coach has a hydraulic slide for the genny

parts for the air toilet are shockingly expensive.

tom

[qcj]

Chester, the dump port is where mine was leaking also.  Mine was caused from a bad dump valve where the internal seals were not doing their job. After I rebuilt the valve all was well.  But as Tom said there can be several things that cause this.  It just so happen this was my problem.  Most of the time the valves need rebuilding anyway so this is a good place to start.  The parts to rebuild the valve are inexpensive.

[Trainer]

What is leaking out underneath the AH where the exhaust pipe goes through the floor of the basement? it could be AH coolant, fresh water or maybe engine coolant. Diesel rarely leaks like a sieve so I do not think the burner components are involved. But if so, they are repairable.

Engine coolant is not likely as the engine preheat pump or the diesel main engine needs to be running for engine coolant to leak like a sieve. If engine coolant, a leak in piping where the burner is located is repairable. But if from engine heating loop in the heater, reman $$$ or replacement $$$$$.

So if AH coolant, most likely something to do with the AH boiler fluid (regular engine coolant, probably green color) is leaking. This could be the tank drain fittings, the electric heating element(s), maybe the coolant piping in the area where the burner is located or a split in the tank. All are repairable except the tank split. That is a reman $$$ or replacement $$$$$$.

If water, then the fresh water heating loop has a leak. That could be fittings in the area where the burner is located and repairable or a split fresh water loop in the heater which is reman $$$ or replacement $$$$$$.

Newell can fix or you can come to me in Baytown, Tx, and I can fix. I have a place for you to park and plug in while here.

Reman is a month long a process from start to finish. Your heater is removed, sent to AH for Reman and installed when received back. All function of the AH is down for the month. The fresh water system can work and the main engine can run. We loop those lines so no leak while using cold water or running engine.

Replacement is two days of work. A new heater is shipped one week after the order is placed and arrives 4 work days later. Function of the AH is down for the two days.

A fix is a few hours of labor. Come here as we eat good while you are in town.

In the meantime, if we can determine what is leaking, we may be able to get you motoring without it leaking by looping the lines to and from the heater containing the leaking fluid. But that function of the AH would be down till fixed.

Lastly, there are Aqua Hot Factory Authorized service centers scattered around the USA that can address the AH too.

Boy, I hope this helps as it took over 30 minutes for me to think about it, write it and edit it. Kept finding something I had forgotten to include had to add that item too. All the best.

[Shamu406]

Thank you for the replies.
Tom and Rudy,
The AH is leaking water not coolant or diesel. It leaks HOT water while in use, steady steaming leak, not drips, a small steady stream. As long as it has a supply of water it leaks, from the tank or city water supply.
Last year, when I bought the Newell, it had a minor drip to it. Then I scraped the exhaust pipe of the AH on a cement parking pad at a RV Resort in Gatlinburg. Knocked the exhaust pipe out of place at the upward 90* turn going up to roof. I put it back into place, but leak seemed to get worst after.
Tom - Where do I get the correct O rings to rebuild the solenoids? Is it simple to do, or need and special tools?
Also, what is the part that leaks air on the side of the engine? It could be the A/C air compressor, but it is a small part that is attached to it that leaks air.
Thanks!

[Trainer]

With a little luck, the fresh water leak is in the fittings under the burner which are repairable. To see them, look carefully under the burner with a flash light to see if you can see where the leak is coming from. Most of these lines are soldered copper lines and not prone to leaking. Check for any plastic fitting that might be used especially where the pex lines to and from the coach go into the bulkhead of the heater.

If no leak can be seen, especially if the pan under the burner is dry, then the fresh water loop is split and that is reman or replacement.

To get you motoring, remove the cold water in to the heater and loop it to the hot water from the heater. No fresh water pressure in the heater, no leak and NO hot water till fixed. But the fresh water system works, just have cold water at all faucets.

If you gotta have hot water before fixing the heater fresh water loop, get a 10 gallon 120 vac hot water heater at a box store. Place it in the basement, connect to the fresh water cold water line at the heater and to the hot water line at the heater and plug it in. You now have hot water till heater is fixed.

In anticipation of your coming here, my Bar-B Que friend has put on a brisket just for you. But don't worry if you do not come as he said he will sell it to the many many Petro workers here for the multi-billion dollar projects going on here. Just could not control myself. All the best.

[rheavn]

The part attached to your air compressor is the governor. 


When is the last time you drained your air tanks?  There are 10 or 11.  

When did you last change the desiccant filter?

This many air problems leads me to suspect you have water in your air system.

[HoosierDaddy]

Chappell, I went to the post you refer to and most of it deals with the dump air cylinder whereas my issue is the exhaust port of the solenoid control valve.  HoosierDaddy, do you happen to know the part number?  More tomorrow - watching football the rest of the day.

I don't have the part #. I think it will be on that tag that is visible in the pic. It is an Alpha series valve.

[folivier]

I agree with Steve, drain your tanks soon. #2 picture looks like it has a rust stain from one of the exhausts.