[rheavn]

                When Tom was at the farm one of our tasks was to adjust his toilets, so I thought I'd share the "how to" with every one. Maybe Michael Day can be more specific, but I believe these toilets have been in use since the '90s and are still used to my knowledge. My toilets are model LF-210, although I'm sure that model numbers may have changed over the years. Within the LF-210 there are two styles: a down discharge and a rear discharge. I have one of each and from an owners perspective they function identically.

How the toilets function is interesting and many times misunderstood. When you actuate the flush valve, the flapper opens and the waste flows into a holding area called a hopper as fresh water flows. Many believe it is flushed into the black tank immediately. The flapper closes and fresh water continues to flow into the bowl for use on the next flush. AFTER the flapper has closed compressed air enters the hopper, pushing the waste into the black tank.

There are two adjustments that an owner needs to be aware of. The first is the flap opening and the second is the bowl water level.

The flap opening should be between 5 to 7 seconds. This is important to ensure that enough water is let into the hopper to complete the flush cycle(signage on the bottom of my toilet tank cover indicates 4-6 seconds, but the owners' manual says 5-7). Flapper timing is adjusted by turning a hex nut located under the toilet cover. Clockwise increases the time the flap is open & ccw shortens the time the flap is open. A small adjustment makes big changes.

The water level should be adjusted so the water just covers the flap. If the water is too high you need to go to your valve in the water bay and reduce the water by partially closing the valve for the toilet until the water fills to the proper height.

One other maintenance issue of note is to lubricate the air water sequence valve. The manual suggests this is done every year for heavy use, 2-3 years for medium use and every 5 years for light use. The procedure is explained in the owner's manual.

Hope this info is helpful...........................

[bikestuff]

Steve,

Steve,

Consider me adjusted! yay!

One additional thought...

On my coach there is a nut just like the picture...but the adjustment is via an allen screw inside the nut. I held the nut with an open end wrench and turned the allen screw inside the nut.

Now I don't have to hold the flush handle to get it to do its thing!

Thanks!

[rheavn]

Bill,
You're right. Tom also had the allen screw inside the nut, but no matter what each one has the adjustment procedure is the same. Glad to hear you're adjusted!

[larryweikartsr]

Wish I'd had this info a couple years ago. Took me almost that long to figure mine out with the help of Ed Mullaney, whom I believe is the Parts distributor for the mfg. He's very helpful and knows the product very well. His Phone# is 866-840-4944 and has a website; edmullaney.com

[Johnc]

As a sidenote, Microphor's air/water sequnce valves do not appreciate high water pressure. We have not used Microphor for quite some time, but as I recall the maximum recommended Microphor pressure was around 50psi, and I think a factory rep once told me you should never exceed 85 psi on the manifold.

On some older coaches the Headhunter pump was installed so that it added pressure to the city water input pressure. Many people don't realize the Headhunter pump does not have a pressure sensor per se, but rather uses a water wheel and a time delay method that stops the pump a short interval after water stops flowing. I have seen pressures in excess of 100 psi where both the city water and Headhunter pump were being used simultaneously.

I suggest checking your water gauge in the plumbing bay when ever you hook to city water. Open the faucet so that the Headhunter comes on and then when the pump shuts, if your water pressure exceeds much more than 60 psi, either turn off the Headhunter pump, or use city water to fill the tank and then work off the headhunter.

[rheavn]

Thanks John,
Always insightful to get the benefit of the factory's experience on some of these issues BEFORE some one finds out the hard way. Who's toilets is Newell using now?

[Johnc]

Thanks John,
Always insightful to get the benefit of the factory's experience on some of these issues BEFORE some one finds out the hard way. Who's toilets is Newell using now?

We are using a Headhunter toilet system that uses copious amouts of water to flush and grind the waste. It's not retrofittable because it requries a one inch diameter water line to turn the macerator and flush the bowl, not to mention the need for a Headhunter pump and accumulator.

For the dry campers out there (like I was in another life) it's not exactly user friendly

[rheavn]

I've been very happy with the Microphor toilets and since I do a lot of dry camping, it sounds like the Headhunter system wouldn't work for me.

[HoosierDaddy]

My Microphor is leaking. I have disassembled and lubed the valve mechanism etc. and can see no water leaking anywhere below the mechanism lid. It seems to leak from under the bowl and seep out around the edges of the base a few hours after use. If it sets for a month everything (including the bowl) dries up. Is there a potential leak under the unit that I cannot see w/o removing the toilet?

[Richard]

The short answer is yes. It isn't much harder that a house toilet to remove. Disconnect air, water, and the tricky part will be the discharge. It is usually with a band clamp. Some are accessed through the top opening, and some can be reached between the waste tank and the toilet.