I have 4 basement doors that the outer skin has started coming unglued from the aluminum angle frame. I called Newell and they said they use a 2 part epoxy and clamps. Originally they used 3M trim tape but said that it is very difficult to fully remove the skin from the frame, clean off the old tape, then apply new tape and align the door onto the frame.
So I bought 6 of these clamps: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001VSY...UTF8&psc=1
Then glued carpet to a few 4x4" squares of plywood to protect the paint. Also used a 1" ratchet strap for the bottom of the basement door since the molding was uneven and I couldn't use the clamps there. The epoxy was very easy to apply with the mixing tips. So far I've used 1/2 of 1 tube and have done 2 doors. I also used a strap to hold the door at a lower height to make it easier to work on. The epoxy takes 4-6 hours to cure. The first door I did came out good but only time will tell how long it lasts. If it lasts a couple years I'll be satisfied even if I have to re-glue it.
You are certainly keeping yourself busy 'improving' your Newell, Steve. Great job. Thanks for the photos. Last year after the Spearfish Rally, Newell removed the skin from the entry door on my coach, trimmed it and glued it back in place. The skin had actually shifted toward the rear and bottom of the coach leaving a gap on the front edge and top of the door and extending up against the door jam on the rear (lock side) and bottom of the door. That was quite the job since the entire door had to be removed and the tape removed.
Steve? Hate being held to higher standards!
Yes I've been pretty busy. Fortunately I have a great place to do all of these projects and Cindy can walk over to her moms to spend time with her. Did Newell use the 3M trim tape? Getting that stuff off is an incredibly tough job.
Sorry Forest, temporarily lost my mind (at least I hope it was temporary). Newell originally used the 3M tape on the door and it took two employees a substantial amount of time to remove it. I don't think they used any tape to reinstall it, I saw some glue on the work bench and they did add rivets to the edge of the door after they got it back together.
He is my story on basement bay doors in picture form
Way back when I was researching my next coach one of the big reasons I did not get a Prevost was that there was a problem with delimitation on some coaches. To those of you laughing and thinking it was because I could not afford a Prevost, you know me well.
It sure was disappointing to find the doors on my Newell delaminating, just like a Prevost. Well at least we have something in common!
All joking aside, this is a problem that must be addressed and I see I am not alone. Prevost apparently did a good job of stepping up and covering much of the cost of the repairs to their coaches. I never though of asking Newell to help, but it might not hurt if you are facing this problem in the future.
I started my research with what adhesives were used to hold the aluminum parts together on airplanes. Now, as someone pointed out earlier, it will hopefully be years before I will know if my way is any good. So, don't take my way as anything but what I have done. The doors may fall off tomorrow. The applications engineer at Sika was super helpful and a quick responder, so thanks to them.
Russ White
2016 Winnebago Vista LX 30T
#530 ( Sold )
1999 45' Double Slide - Factory upgrade 2004
I looked at the Sikaflex products but decided on a 2 part epoxy.
Russ how difficult was it to remove the old 3M trim tape?
I decided not to remove the frame but to squirt the epoxy into the gap leaving the 3M tape. Hopefully this will work if not then I'll probably do as you did.
BTW on a couple doors the previous owner had used a black (epoxy?) but had just smeared it on the outside of the frame and door. This did not work and that is what I'm reglueing now.
I only wanted to do this once. I think cleaning both surfaces completely, lightly sanding, then treating with the Aktivator maximizes my chances for a permanent solution. It takes time, patience, and a good sharp chisel to remove the tape. Russ
Russ White
2016 Winnebago Vista LX 30T
#530 ( Sold )
1999 45' Double Slide - Factory upgrade 2004
(This post was last modified: 01-24-2014, 02:29 PM by RussWhite.)
Here is some information that will explain that as well as suggestions from the application engineer.
I would strongly recommend you use Sika Aktivator 205 if you choose to go with Sikaflex 552.
As for application, please make sure you apply a triangular shaped bead (achieved by applying with the v-notched nozzle that should be included with the product). This bead is applied to one surface, then the second surface is mated and the bead is compressed between the two substrates to the final thickness which should be between 1/16-1/8". Please make sure you do not spread the bead down to the desired thickness before mating the panel to the frame.
Hope that helps. Russ
Russ White
2016 Winnebago Vista LX 30T
#530 ( Sold )
1999 45' Double Slide - Factory upgrade 2004
I know this is an old thread, but I wanted to get some input.
While your delamitation is happening on your doors...mine is happening on the COACH! Right above my shore-power bay the skin has pulled away from whatever supports it. This is causing a leak into the basement bay. The delamitation is right at the bottom corner of the #2 slide.
Any thoughts on how a guy would re-attach the skin to the frame?
(I am already scheduled at Newell but wanted to get some insights before then)
Bill Johnson
Birmingham, Alabama
(This post was last modified: 08-11-2014, 05:16 AM by bikestuff.)
