[whatsnewell]

Tom, I agree....talked with him at length prior to his trip to buy the coach.

[HoosierDaddy]

Todd,
I may have a condenser fan motor going out. What was the resolution on this situation for you?

[Chester Stone]

HoosierDaddy, I know you asked Todd this question, but I had a condenser fan unit go out. I remember posting photos of the fan motor and commented on how to remove it. I purchased a new motor from Grainger, but was able to have the motor repaired in Mexico for about $50. I now carry the new motor with me as a spare. I also replaced the starter thingies. What failed was a bushing.

[HoosierDaddy]

Thanks Chester.
Mine are Duotherm units. We're camping near Richmond, IN this week. One of the middle units quit and I'm suspecting condenser fan. I will tear into it next week when I get home. Dave Holmes says "motor not available". My coach has 4 separate electric heat/A/C units so we are doing fine with outside temps in the 70's and 80''s!!!

[Fulltiming]

I had an electric motor shop here in Austin rebuild two of my condenser fan motors because we could not find a replacement that was the correct size, rotational speed, and shaft size to replace the motors on my Dometic basement airs.

To follow up on Chester's comment, I had one of the units that would start sometimes but not others and at Richard's suggestion, I purchased and installed a Hard Start Kit and it has worked ever since I installed it. I used the Supco SPP6 AC hard start kit purchased from Amazon.com for about $12. http://www.amazon.com/SUPCO-SPP6-Start-R...supco+SPP6

[Flick]

You know I cannot recall. I think there was a simple fix of some kind. Called a guy that works on house AC's and he came over and got it all running just fine.

[Fulltiming]

Replacing the start/run capacitors is always a cheap, easy way to start. The Dometics use a combined capacitor 20 microfarads for the compressor and 5 microfarads for the fan motor. GE 97F9673 20mf 5mf (SR2247)

I understand that if you shake them and they slosh, they are bad. Of course they can be tested to make sure they are storing enough energy.

[Dmatz]

Be careful on the capacitor replacements that he VAC of the cap is correct as well as the MFD. A capacitor will typically show signs of failure in sloshing as well as bloating. If you can measure the MFD or capacitance the tolerance is +,- 10%.as a capacitor becomes weaker it had an effect on the motors like the fan and compressor. Hope this is not to confusing.

[Richard]

Here is my .02 on the domestic situation based on my experience with them. One, Newell used twist on connectors in the silver control box to tie to house power. They loosen over time and heat up. They should be checked yearly. Two, the relays on the control boards that power the compressor and condenser fan can fail. They are easily obtained and replaced with basic soldering iron skills. Three, the condenser fAn motors eventually fails because it is an oilite bronze bearing. The bearing wears to the points it makes the motor hard to turn. Newell has always been able to supply me with spares. I actually think they were having someone make them in batches for them but don't trust me on that statement. Four, properly gassed and clean the domestic units will turn the coach into Antartica if you let Rhonda control the thermostat.

[HoosierDaddy]

I pulled the bad fan motor today. It is a Emerson Model K33HXCDK-929 , hp=1/6, rpm 1650 2.9 amp. I emailed Newell to see if they had any. I cant find one on Grainger online and was wondering if anybody can help.?