[HoosierDaddy]

I'm thinking Newell used wood to avoid metal to metal contact and to provide a measure of insulative value to the floor. In the case of my 1978 the metal/wood floor lasted 20 years. I suppose very few methods would be a permanent solution but probably the cost/benefit ratio is what determined that arrangement. I believe the FRP sealed with silicone will be a more long lasting solution. It is virtually impossible for water to get between the FRP and the metal.

[Retro]

Here is some before and after pics of mine. The wood was rotten for a long time!! After I pulled the linoleum off I shoveled the rest out then cut all the sheet metal out and added extra bracing.

[HoosierDaddy]

Extra bracing...Good idea!
My '78 had a homemade plywood/fiberglass waste tank that was pretty rough. I was told that Newell put mild steel waste tanks in them at that time. It appears your waste tank is stainless steel. That is interesting.

[Flick]

Well it was an all day dirty job but the bay is empty. Wood was rotted and the metal underneath was rusty with big holes towards the outside on both sides. Think that is for me. Going to find a body shop or welder to cut it out and put a new metal floor in. I will spend my time prepping the waste tank that I managed break off both sides dump chutes. Not sure why I even need the one on the passenger side. If I trashed this can I get a good replacement somewhere?

[HoosierDaddy]

Assuming yours is a poly tank, I would advise replacing the tank depending on the extent of the damage. You don't want a leak in your newly refurbished bay. There were a couple places building tanks for the Bus conversion guys. I cannot find them at this time. When I redid my bay, since I had the tools available to me building one out of steel was a LOT less money. However in your case probably a poly tank is the best choice, especially if you want to add a tank monitor. I installed a dump fitting on the driver side only. That allowed extra room for extra tank capacity. Here is a link I found on a Google search.
http://www.watertanks.com/products/RO-RVB455

[folivier]

I've used my curbside dump occasionally. Sometimes you're at a site with a view you might want to pull into backwards. That's also a great place to hook up a macerator. Also if your driver side dump valve ever malfunctions you have a backup.

[Ozarkguy]

Here's another link. http://www.tank-depot.com/productdetails...RI-WH-2100

[Flick]

   

Thanks guys. I will take a closer look at the tank today and let you know. Yes it's a pollytank. Here is one pic from the drivers side where you can see the extent of the rust. If I cannot find FRP for the walls what do you suggest for the treating the plywood or should I just get treated plywood? I will leave the walls just off the floor so hopefully if water gets in nothing will wick up the walls. Keith's suggestion.

[whatsnewell]

I have dump valves on both sides of the coach, and have been glad a few times when it was easier to use the dump valves on the passenger side. Todd, looks like you some work to do before she goes back into storage for the winter. Good luck! I had to remove my fresh water tank last summer to reseal the ionizer plugs, and was surprised at how easy that part was. I think it will be much more difficult to remove the combo black/gray water tank should that ever become necessary.

[Flick]

It's out Clarke. It was a bearcat. The water tank was very easy. It was so tight in there that we had to cut the elbow on both sides of the tank. Then as we were pull it out the passenger side caught and just sheared off anyway. So if I can get those out completely and rebuild I think it's useable again. See the pic.

Also the plumbing is all measured to this tank so it would be easier to re-install.