There should be a kit available for that pump, did you check all the fittings for the hoses? Mine has o-rings on a couple and jic on the others. If you need to rebuild the pump and dont want to loose much oil I would recommend finding the right plugs and caps for the hoses and fittings and quickly put them on when you remove them, you will loose some.
Take the pump off to rebuild it there will be more than one gasket to change and also a seal for the input shaft.
Hope this helps
Love old school
1976 Newell 8.3 cummins allison 6spd
1977 Newell 8.3 cummins allison 6spd
Thanks Retro. Well I cut the valves to the heater and AH off and they started to leak even more. So I opened them back. I can't believe the amount of turns those things take. I am just reaching in from the back, because I can't get under the coach. I could not turn the second one down from the top. It is really tight and if my arm swelled any while in there I would not been able to get it out. Guess I had better go buy another gal. of coolant. I am glad I am only 70 miles from home. Will be leaving Sunday morning.
Chappell and Mary
2004 Foretravel 36 foot
(This post was last modified: 04-11-2014, 08:45 AM by qcj.)
Steve are you having any leak problems with your valves? Looks like when you change the fluid would be a good time to change them. I guess Newell sells the valves.
Chappell and Mary
2004 Foretravel 36 foot
(This post was last modified: 04-11-2014, 11:06 AM by qcj.)
No leaks late yesterday afternoon or this morning. Will see what happens when I get home and the lines get hot and the pressure get high. Like you said cut them off and turn them back on helps. But for how long what bothers me.
I went out and looked at my heater shut off valves today. It appears to me that these valves are two piece--much like the AquaHot mixing valves. If so disassembling the manifold and disconnecting the heater hoses would be unnecessary. It appears to me by removing the handles, one could remove each valve guts with a deep socket. If you had the valve part ready coolant loss could be held to only a small amount. Might have to buy the whole valve, but only use the valve guts. I attached a picture. See if your valves are like mine.
Depends on which part is causing the leak Steve. If it is the packing it should be easy but if the seat is cut or worn it might take longer to change out. If you could get a new valve it would be easy to take it apart and then determine how hard it would be to replace the guts. I guess you could use vise grips to pinch off the hoses and keep coolant loss to a minimum.
Most of them that I heard were leaking was around the stem so I did assume it was a good chance just the packing would have to be replaced. This would save a lot of work if it works.
If I had to remove the heater hoses I would just jamb a bolt into the heater hose and put a clamp on it. That should keep from losing all the coolant.
Steve Bare
1999 Newell 2 slide #531
(This post was last modified: 04-12-2014, 03:51 PM by rheavn.)