[77newell]

The bottom trim strip extrusion on my water bay door had come a bit loose. It was attached by double sided adhesive tape and I managed to cut it loose with a long flat spatula-like tool. Then I had the unenvious job of cleaning the tape and adhesive residue off using a razor blade and a 3M scrubber. I tried using several solvents but never found one that worked well.

Forest had mentioned that the factory recommended the double sided tape or epoxy. The tape had not held so I went with WEST brand G/flex epoxy for about $22. Per their recommendation I wet-sanded the first coat of epoxy onto the door and the trim. Once cured I sanded it to give the epoxy some tooth. Since I had left the door on the coach I mixed the G/flex bonding coat with a small amount of WEST microfibers to give the mix more gap filling ability, slathered it on the trim strip and clamped it in place. After curing for a day I tested the bond by giving the bottom of the trim a hard yank and it stayed put so I guess it worked.

BTW; if you wax the finished surfaces in the area being worked on the cured epoxy peels off easily. It worked for me even though I had not thought about it ahead of time, the wax just happened to have been there. I was lucky, again.

[Chester Stone]

I got too close to a tree stump and damaged a bottom trim piece to the bay next to the door. Attached is a photo of the trim piece which has now been straightened. Has anyone used liquid nails or 3M 5200? Any suggestions?
   

[HoosierDaddy]

I would not recommend liquid nails. On my 93 I used 3m trim tape that is recommended for auto trim adhesion. My trim also had rivets that secured each end of the trim strip through the door skin from the back side.

[arcticdude]

Sikaflex also has some adhesives that will work very well.